Wire Feed Problem W/Miller 175 ??

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PA41

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
872
My Miller 175 wire feed wheel quit this weekend. I took the motor/drive unit out and tested it with an 18v powersource and it worked fine. The motor is good-not grounded.

The wires to the drive unit show 14 to 21 volts and respond to the wire speed knob when the motor is disconnected. It seems to have the voltage, but not the amperage.

Anyone familiar with the powersource for the wire feed motor in a Miller?

Or where I might look on the NerNet to find a diagram?

Any suggestions?

Any opinions on the Miller 212? I'm Not a fan on working on electric tools once they break. I'ts my experience they rarely ever really 'fix'.

Thanks

PA41
 
If the 212 is the new version of the old 210 it will be a fantastic machine. Our 210 has laid down miles and miles of welds with zero problems.

Don't toss out the old one yet, why not call Miller and ask a Tech for advice. We just ran into Miller at a booth at the Street Rod Nats in Tampa, and we told them how much we love our 210 but that we broke the red trigger button. We wanted to order one from them but they insisted on sending it to us free, and our machine is over 6 years old ! We LOVE Miller and have their Syncrowave 200 Tig also. :D

Don
 
Have you checked the liner? Mine did a similar thing. Sounded like the drive motor was getting weak, but ended up being a bad liner. New liner and tip and she was up and welding like new again!
 
I purchased a new Miller 212 about 2 months ago and love it. I run it off of 220 and it welds like nobody's business.

Have had several Miller machines and have never been unhappy.

The 212 is basically marketed to home owners and small shops but has the capability to weld 3/8" and does a fine job at it.

The attached photo show a piece of 3/8" welded to 1/4" with the Miller 212.

As I have been welding for over 20 years I didn't plan to use the auto set feature. However I find myself using it as it is so simple. Dial in the wire size and set the voltage to the material thickness you are welding. Works like a dream.
 

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Thanks for the input guys--helpfull as always.

Heres where I am. The problem: Wire feed wheel not turning..
1 Checked power to drive motor--12 to 21 volts-responds to feed speed knob
2 Removed drive motor and tested with an 18 V battery--runs good
3 Removed and tested capacitor--was good-(Be Carefull here!!) Discharge first..
4 Tested voltage to gun welding wire for DC and Volts was 20 V DC--Good.
5 Called Miller tec--discussed the methods etc--agreed the controller card was the problem-- $304.. Ouch!! I doubt the welder is worth much more than that!!
6. Googled the # of the controller card--came up with a card rebuilder. York Electronics. Their catalog sez they'll reman my card for $132 plus shipping there and back. I'l try that.

If I was a little mo geeked up, I'd test the board components and try to fix it..

Will let you know how it comes out in a few ..

Thanks for the input-

I still think I'll order the 212..

PA41
 
A little update-- Sent the card to York Wens--haven't heard from them yet on it.

Ordered a Miller 212 off eBay. Shopped the local Miller outlet, they wanted $1900 + 10% tax so $2090. The eBay seller sold it for $1500 + $127 Shipping and no sales tax. $1627.. got it in 3 days after I ordered it for $460 less than local..

Woof!! 250 pounds! Luck I sent it to my work with a fork lift handy and unloaded it in my shop with my overhead hoist.. Its a light industrial welder and Everything about its heavy duty compaired to the 180 type hobby/home welders I've had over the years.. The gun weighs double--the Neg clamp is so stiff I can barely open it! (I'm gettin weak in my old age).

Welds sweet--steady feed-- effortless-- New Tools is great!! One little hitch--new owner thing. The fan doesn't come on when ya turn the welder on.. The fan only runs when it warms up--'fan on demand'. Its different and I don't like it--as my wife sez--"different is BAD" :D Theres something satisfying about flipping the welder on and hearing the fan:rolleyes: I thought it was broke.... I'll get use to it I guess....

Will post when I get the refurbished card back for the 175 later..

Life is good...


PA41
 
We got a new plasma cutter with the fan on demand thing. I find myself leaving it on a lot, because it does not make any noise. Saving electric I guess.
 
I got the board back from York Electronics Monday--shipped it Wensday, so a 6 day turn around. I put the welder back together last night and the machine worked fine ..

The total cost was $132 repair and $11 shipping each way for $154. Beats the $305 + tax for the Miller board locally.

The cost of welding I guess.. "Ya play, Ya Pay".[;)

PA41
 
I took this175 Miller welder to work and have been building a smoker/grill with it to give it a test workout.

The welder did OK new, but it never welded like it does now. Its powerfull and smooth and stable like it never was before! I've done a series of long, high temp burns and it didn't blink. I didn't think it was bad new, I've owned a number of them, and it seemed normal, but in comparison, it may have been faulty to start with? Or maybe this refurbisher soups the board up better than when they came out?? It sems to even weld better than the new 212 I have!! :confused: I havent built much with it yet though--so not too sure about the comarison there..

Any how--This York Electronics seems to be a good thing.

PA41
 
On the Miller 212

I've been working on making a rear sump oil pan for my JDM turbo motor for my Fox Body Mustang project-- using my new 212. I was reluctant to build my own pan--having done a couple with so so outcome. I've found laying a good non porus bead on 22 gauge challenging. My DIY oil pans have always had weepy seams. It seems I would blow a bunch of holes in the thin metal, and the patches were poor.

This 212 has some sort of computer controlled setting er something--that allows me to weld a solid good penatrating bead on thin 22-18 ga metal with almost no blow through!! Weird getting a tool that makes you look like you know what your'e doing!!!

Things can get better!

Just spend more money![cl

PA41
 
On your pan, run those welds vertical. Start at the top and come down, and hold the nozzle pointing up at a 45* angle. Th tanks that we build, that is how I weld them. Almost no leaks at all.
 
Good tip!! I had the pan bolted down to keep it from warping though and only had a couple seams that were up N down, so I've got a couple good looking seams with a bunch of OK looking ones.

Thanks for the tip..

PA
 
How are you fitting your metal. Corner to Corner? I know its thin but then you may get equal heat to both sides. Did you put 030 wire in it. I have a 252 and weld thin often. Low heat increase wire feed and hot rod it.
 
The Miller is great for this, 220 volt makes a big difference, steady power, also I use 0.24/025 wire,cost more to buy,but allows you to weld thin with much less heat,Brian
 

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