HF Beadroller Stand

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project40

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2007
Messages
93
Location
Pennsyltucky
It won't win any beauty pagents but I stuck to my goal of only using junk I had laying around. Total cost $0 :D

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It won't win any beauty pagents but I stuck to my goal of only using junk I had laying around. Total cost $0 :D

Beauty is not everything. it looks fine. You might want to go out a little bigger at the bottom, just because the weight of the piece you are working on may pull it over. As turning the crank hardalso may. Mine is on a cast iron umbrella stand I picked up at a yard sale.
 
good idea with the converter , I mounted mine on a post ,then welded that in an old rim and filled it with concrete , have you used it yet ? kind of a pain to crank the handle and guide the metal at the same time ...... I have an idea for that , i`ll post a pic when I get it finished
 
You might want to go out a little bigger at the bottom, just because the weight of the piece you are working on may pull it over. As turning the crank hardalso may.

Yes. I would make the base a little larger. It could be as simple as welding some pieces of scrap tubing outward in a cross pattern to that converter. Looks fine to me.

I have a steel post welded to a wheel for a base that I use. But I have a vice mounted on the post. I clamp the bead roller in the vice when I'm using it. The rest of the time, I have a vice on a stand which I use a lot.
 
Thats an awesome idea with the vise on a stand. I haven't had a chance to actually use the roller yet but I played around with a couple scraps and it is a pain to turn and feed the metal. I see why people hook them up to motors now.
 
Here's how I mounted mine. Found a old disc and welded tabs to it and bolted it to the floor. I also cut the handle off and mounted a tubing ring off of a old drafting chair. It makes it alot easier to use by yourself. I also welded some 3/8X2 1/2 strap to the side of the throat to keep the frame from springing.
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Vice mount?

Hey guys looks great! I just thought I'd mention that I welded 2 pieces of sq. tube 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" about 6" long with a hole in one side and a nut welded over the hole for a bolt to hold in place on each end of my big weld table.Then my vise is mounted to a plate that has a piece of 2"X 2" sq. tube welded to it.
This all works like a hitch on your truck (slide in or out) on both ends of the table!
My english wheel I built has the same pieces so I have a place to mount the vice on one side and I have a bench grinder on the other (both on hitch)!
This is a very handy way to mount stuff that you might need to move from time to time!
 
Bringing back an old thread.......here's my HF bead roller. I welded 2x2 square tubing to the back side to stiffen it up. What a difference! Works soo much better. I used a 2x4 piece for the stand, and a space saver spare tire/rim from a Nissan truck for the base. Having the rubber tire on there makes it easy to move it around the shop.
 

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Very Cool....

Cool ideas here for modifying the Harbor Freight piece.
I may have to take another look at that bead roller. Thanks, guys.. '22
 
Hey guys looks great! I just thought I'd mention that I welded 2 pieces of sq. tube 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" about 6" long with a hole in one side and a nut welded over the hole for a bolt to hold in place on each end of my big weld table.Then my vise is mounted to a plate that has a piece of 2"X 2" sq. tube welded to it.
This all works like a hitch on your truck (slide in or out) on both ends of the table!
My english wheel I built has the same pieces so I have a place to mount the vice on one side and I have a bench grinder on the other (both on hitch)!
This is a very handy way to mount stuff that you might need to move from time to time!

Any picture to share with us? It would be nice to see your inginuity:rolleyes:

Maximo
 
Build my own ...

All of the sudden I know what 3 or 4 pieces of scrap steel in my shop are destined for. I have not touched one of these in a long time so a couple of questions:
I notice on several of the mandrels/rollers that the 'male' portion is nice and round, but the 'female' portion is square cut (as opposed to rounded top and bottom). Is that normal/ideal?
What is typical for the mandrel connecting to the shaft - spline, key, square, pin, something else? What WONT work?
What is the typical arm length - I realize that that depends on what I wanna build, but for you guys that have them and were gonna build another, what length would you use?

Thanks for any help

- Mike
 

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