Anyone heard of/used this stuff?

As I've shown, and talked about, my welding skills are not the greatest. My neighbor pointed out this stuff to me tonight after he saw a demonstration on it a couple months ago. Wonder if anyone had heard of it, used it, etc.. Supposedly, all you do is use a torch and this will fill, harder than the original steel.

http://www.alumaloy.com/frames/steelaloy1.htm

Never heard of it.
Sounds simple enough though...

I've heard of it and have seen it demonstrated at shows but have never used it myself. I'm pretty skeptical. Are you thinking about it for your patch panels?

Was thinking about it yeah, or filling small little holes that I'd rather not fill with bondo or the like. Not much difference than the old school method of using lead, yeah?

Wizedude!

Joker,
I think the Wizedude mentioned something about that stuff once... maybe he can fill in here!!!

BoB

We were discussing alum. welding and Jeff, "chop509", mentioned this product. He was talking about using it on trim pieces.
I attached my reply below..........


It may be worth a try. I've never used it.
A couple of things I would be concerned about would be if there is enough heat to properly sink into the parent material. Also, would the product "match" to the trim pieces, color wise would you be able to see a ring around the new material after polishing.
It may be ok but I would do some research before trying to repair anything rare.


Tracy

Also, I don't think I would use this stuff on anything important. From a strength standpoint.

I agree, it doesn't sound like it would be strong for anything important. It may work as bondo. Almost sounds like solder. But I would be skeptical of any thing that "requires no effort".

I have

I have used it in the past on my Honda ATV I broke the chain which broke the case
Cleaned it up fixed itand it has been six years and it still hold oil without a leek
Also use it to fix flat bottom boats
and fixed a prop on a trollin motor

I haven’t ordered any to try yet.

Their infomercial looks pretty impressive. It shows repairing a broken bolt tab on an aluminum transmission case. They build it up, grind it to shape, and drill a new hole.
Looks like new, hard to tell it had been repaired. They make the same kind of repair on a damaged aluminum boat prop.

I like working with aluminum, and have thought about doing an all aluminum interior in my ’34. Was thinking the stuff would work great for building center consoles, brackets, etc.

Jeff

I think Gastrick and I have probably seen the same booth at Turkey Run in Daytona. There is a guy there who is doing this process all day long for people who stop. I have never really paid any attention, as it didn't seem to be mainstream or something that I could use.


Don

It would seem to me, that it would only be good as a filler, it takes more heat than 500 degrees to melt aluminum, so it would not bond properly to the parent metal, it seems like a decent brazing solution though.

donsrods said:

I think Gastrick and I have probably seen the same booth at Turkey Run in Daytona. There is a guy there who is doing this process all day long for people who stop. I have never really paid any attention, as it didn't seem to be mainstream or something that I could use.


Don

Click to expand...

Yea that's the one Don and I just found out my dad snuck and bought some when I wasn't looking but didn't want to tell me because he thought I would complain about it. If I have time this week end, I'll give it a try on something and give a report.

A report would definitely be appreciated. We have one from hillbilly, but another couldn't hurt.

Muggy Weld

I just bought this stuff from a Company called Muggy Weld that repairs POT METAL and it can weld Copper and aluminum together and few other types of metals. I had an Wildcat Emblem that had three pins broken off the back and I sanded down the area where the pins were and I"welded" three 6-32 bolts in place of where the pins sat and this stuff works great. It has a 17000 psi tensile strength to it! I don't know how to put links up but if you Google "Muggy Weld"
It will take you to the site and you can watch the little videos that shows how easy it is. All you need is a propane torch and their Super Alloy 1 and their Flux. The Emblem I "welded" had plastic covering the emblem face and I just laid it on a wet rag and in a few seconds I was placing the 6-32 bolts into place.
You can sand it ,grind it and then plate over it!

Don

I saw some of the alumnum rod stuff demonstrated at the State Fair here. You can weld, patch, or fill aluminum using the rod and a propane or map gas. I bought some but haven't used it yet. I would use it for any thing that is under a lot of strain.

I have tried it, or a simular type of aluminum solder a number of years ago. It didn't pan out worth a toot for me. I did get to talk to the vendor a couple of weeks later at another fair he was selling at. He let me try it at his booth and I had pretty much the same results. Then he showed where I was going wrong. The first and most important the area has to be clean. Very clean. The heat has to be just right, it's easy to be to cold on heavy stuff and to hot on the light stuff. Heat the area, not the filler stick. And you apply it to the area by rubbing it on,(seems to 'tin' the area) and not trying to weld it in like you would with a steel rod. I haven't done it yet, but I think putting aluminum end tanks on a aluminum rad might work out not to bad with this stuff. The alloy in the rod is supposed to be better now than in the past, I haven't bought any for along time, so I can say for sure. But I plan on giving it another go. Sniper

Joker, Used the alumaloy on a RV hot water tank to fix some pin hole leaks. It's holding up fine no leaks.

I tried it

The rods work well if you only weld one side of a piece. I welded a Sporty side case with the rods. The first side came out beautiful. I tried to weld the back side and the front weld came out. The heat caused the first weld to fall out. The need to weld both sides of a piece for strength doesn't seem to work well. Maybe I did something wrong but it was super clean and notched to hold weld. Maybe alright for filler but not for any stress points.

Fillin in a crack

This stuff will flow real easy so all you need to do is make sure that the area is clean on both sides and let the stuff seep down thru the crack. Heating both sides at the same time. I have seen the stuff that they say you can "weld" a Aluminum can and it won't distort the metal but I have spoken to people that have used it and the say the same thing as Ike said that it is hard to "weld" up a crack because it falls out when you try and do the other side, this stuff fills the whole crack. Last night I repaired a Tab on a old shovelhead case and I had no problem with putting it back together. It came out looking really good after I sanded and buffed out the repair.
The stuffs melts at 350* which is much lower then the melting point of Aluminum. It really is a strong "weld" which I was really surprised at since you are only using a propane torch! That is why I put the " " around the word weld
It is really more like soldering then welding.