Riveting question

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cycledog

cycledog

A really rusty biker
Joined
May 11, 2007
Messages
4,438
Location
Unwet side of Washington
I want to do some riveting on a length of 18ga about 43 inches long. It will be functional, not just decrative. I have done riveting before but nothing as long a run as this.

Question: Should I start in the middle and work out both ways or start at the ends and work toward the middle?

I would think if you start at one end and work toward the other at some point you would run into the possibility of getting a "wrinkle" by the time you got to the other end. And what would be a good spacing for the rivets?

Any advise? Gastrick, Bonehead, metal workers???

Thanks.
 
I would start in the middle and work your way out, otherwise you'll end up with a hump in the middle if you start at the ends and work your way to the center. Use Cleco's if you can, it will hold your work steady and keep it lined up, kinda like havin an extra hand.
 
cycledog said:
I want to do some riveting on a length of 18ga about 43 inches long. It will be functional, not just decrative. I have done riveting before but nothing as long a run as this.

Question: Should I start in the middle and work out both ways or start at the ends and work toward the middle?

I would think if you start at one end and work toward the other at some point you would run into the possibility of getting a "wrinkle" by the time you got to the other end. And what would be a good spacing for the rivets?

Any advise? Gastrick, Bonehead, metal workers???

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I agree, but Gastrick is the expert. That guy has put in more rivits, than Rosey the Riviter. :D
 
Rivets should be installed at large spacings from the center out. Skipping some equal spaces and going back to be installed and bucked later. (Same idea as tack welding at wide spacings to keep from warping the lighter sheeting. Then going back and tacking in the inbetween spaces.) If your seeing a lot of creep of the sheet metal, to much force is being appied to the rivet swelling it out farther than needed. The rivet should fill the hole it's in and seal the ends to keep out moisture. any thing more is over doing it. Rivet spacing, or pitch as it's called, isn't a given, but the general rules are; no closer together than 3 times the diameter of the rivet shank, where the ideal spacing should be 4 times to 8 times the diameter of the rivet shank. Edge distance, (rivet hole to the edge of the sheet distance) not any closer than 2 times the shank diameter, and no more than 4 times the shank diameter, or the edge will likely want to curl up. This is all aircraft related info, but if they got it right, you won't go to far wrong going by the same rules. This holds true for either the "pop" style rivet and/or the solid bucked rivet. It's what I used when I built my airplane, and it worked out just fine. Drill all holes first, deburr the edges and go to it. Sniper :)
 
Thanks guys. Great help. Looks like you got it figured out Sniper.
I got lots o Clecos.

Unkl Ian, I agree The Yardstore is a great source I have bought a bunch of stuff from them and ATS, aircraft tool supply.
A riveting I shall go.
 
Looks like you already have all the correct tech info c-dog. I'm just an amateur anyway. I'd listen to Sniper. It sounds like he really knows what he's doing.:)

Rosie The Riveter, Ha :D
 
Sniper said:
Rivets should be installed at large spacings from the center out. Skipping some equal spaces and going back to be installed and bucked later. (Same idea as tack welding at wide spacings to keep from warping the lighter sheeting. Then going back and tacking in the inbetween spaces.) If your seeing a lot of creep of the sheet metal, to much force is being appied to the rivet swelling it out farther than needed. The rivet should fill the hole it's in and seal the ends to keep out moisture. any thing more is over doing it. Rivet spacing, or pitch as it's called, isn't a given, but the general rules are; no closer together than 3 times the diameter of the rivet shank, where the ideal spacing should be 4 times to 8 times the diameter of the rivet shank. Edge distance, (rivet hole to the edge of the sheet distance) not any closer than 2 times the shank diameter, and no more than 4 times the shank diameter, or the edge will likely want to curl up. This is all aircraft related info, but if they got it right, you won't go to far wrong going by the same rules. This holds true for either the "pop" style rivet and/or the solid bucked rivet. It's what I used when I built my airplane, and it worked out just fine. Drill all holes first, deburr the edges and go to it. Sniper :)
Click to expand...

Wow! I had no idea riveting involved so much "know how"??? Good thing I've never set out to do it! That's some great information.

Thanks for the advise. I learned alot from reading the post.

Thunder1
 
The Yard has a cheater pattern maker I've used a few times. It stretches out like chain link fence and gives you a perfect pattern layout every time. Here's a couple more tips:
-Definately use clecos they are worth thier weight in gold. They can also be used as buttweld clamps for sheetmetal welding if you put a washer on the back side.
-Deburr all your holes on both sides of the metal (Use a countersink bit or a large drill bit.)
-Round off all your corners and smooth down your edges. It removes stress areas and looks professional.
-Wrap tape around your drill bit to make a drill stop. It keeps you from punching holes in wire bundles and other structures behind your piece.
-If you end up leaving drill shavings between two layers of metal try to fish them out with a "chip chaser." It's shaped like a hook. The Yard sells them also but you could make one.
-Also look in the Yard for a "hole finder." They come in handy and you could probably make one of those too.
 

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