Rats-N-Rice build '29 Tudor

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Sam_Fear

Brother Rat
Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Messages
12,478
Location
Dixon, IA
My previous build thread for this started to get a little messy, so I'll start over. I know some will have a problem with a Honda motor in a Model A, if so, move on to a different thread please.

So....

I got me another sedan. Just the body. (Told my wife the price had dropped to $500, she said she bet I could get it for 4. I took that as a challenge! :D) Rusted out on the bottom 6"+, rust out on the sides of the cowl, but otherwise solid. Even still has an original piece of side glass (not that I'm gonna use it).

I plan to severely chop and section this one. Frame 4" off the ground. But, the problem with that is cramped with no leg room. So, I'm looking for a FWD drivetrain and front suspension out of a car to put in the rear for a mid engine setup. Then I can stretch the cabin area through the firewall. Which means I'll have to run a hood. Not sure about front suspension yet - the dynamics of a mid engine might require a IFS. Maybe a VW front end?

I had to cut it in half to get it in the garage. (any metal left outside will disappear)

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And here is my recent buy. (The Olds is now on the street) It's a 1992 Honda. bought it from a kid that had the motor built up and chipped, ran it 3 races (rolled it once), then got into ticket trouble and needed cash. I'm gonna use the front suspension, motor, trans, and all other related stuff. Cage, seat, and anything else salvageable will be sold, and scrap the rest. Rebel flag roof will go to the sellers friend.

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Just build a cover over the mid engine, like a platform for a large speaker box or something like that. With a full hood, nobody will know the engine is in the back.

I have had thoughts of a similar build before myself, just never tried to do it.
 
what else could you do with the rear of a sedan other than throw a honda or beer coolers back there?
A honda would be faster than a beer cooler unless you filled it with Buttweisers
 
If you hadn't already thought about it....you might want to put some thought into how well it would do in a crash. Having a big hunk of metal behind the driver scares the hell out of me (I picture a slide hammer).

I'd want a driver's compartment that wouldn't crumple and serious motor mounts to keep that sucker attached.
 
I'd thought about that a little already Flipper. Looked it up - motor and trans weigh in at about 480Lbs. I know people that way that much! The stock mounts are fairly beefy, I'll probably just add a bit of tube frame between the seats and motor area. I also would like a little space as a crush zone/heat buffer there too. Another concern I had was radiator placement - I don't want to get rear ended and get 3rd degree burns!

This is what is left of the Civic. Eventually all the remaining sheet metal will be gone too, it's just holding the struts and stuff on the firewall in place right now.

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It's about time to start taking measurements....
 

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Seriously, you should find one of the turbo kits for this..I see them all the time on craigslist and fleabay for cheap $$
 
a few years back i looked a 30-31 model a coupe,no fenders,real low to the ground,had hood and sides on it,it had a fiero 4 cyl and auto trans with the front suspension in the trunk,rad. was up front behind the grille shell,had a belly pan on it to make up for the trunk space.also had a dropped tube axle in front,very nice and well built car.please keep the pictures coming,cant wait.
 
Cool.

Definitely put the radiator up front. The more heat outside of the cab the better.

If you make up a tube chassis you can run the coolant straight through the chassis tubes like we do in the rock crawlers.

Definitely get that engine mounted securely, too. Another 1 or 2 mounts in different planes would be a good thing.
 
I have a 1968 olds tornado I am saving for a similar project. I want to do it with a late 40's early 50's truck. Those hondas can make some serious horsepower. Even naturally aspirated.
 

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