Basket case 27 coupe

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Abasham

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
68
Location
4 corners
Hello all, I’ve been lurking around here for awhile and figured I would try and start my own build thread. Please feel free to let me know if I’m screwing up. I’ve built many off road buggies and out law karts but this is the first rat. So lets get to it....

The car is a model t coupe I picked up from El Paso.
It was a roller but showed better on CL than what it really was. Everything about the running gear was not any where close to being safe/ strong enough . I got a decent enough deal I brought it home and tore it into pieces. And that is when my brain kicked into high gear about a year ago and hasn’t stopped yet. Here are some pics...
 

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After I talked the wife down I build a stand for the body and started/redo the chop. I took what I figured was a total of 6in out from factory height.
 

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I didn’t want to put any ol sheet metal on the roof but knew being in the 4corners I needed something. This is what I came up with. Yep it’s a Chevelle hood.
 

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As you can see the fire wall is in pretty bad shape also. Instead of trying to repair it I came up with this idea. The donor metal is a trunk lid off a 80’s Chevy caprice. Has kinda the same ridge as the roof
 

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I may have started off back asswards. But motivation is motivation right?
I went to the local scrap yard and picked up some large I beam to build a frame table. Know I didn’t need it but sure makes it nice not crawling around on the ground.
I build the frame out of 2x4 3/16 tube.
Overkill but I figure the car isn’t gonna weigh no more than 2200lbs so my horse power to weight ratio is gonna be in Tire burn mode so it’ll be alright....
Here’s my frame
 

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I’m looking at about 122in wheel base. Ish.
As far as front axle I am going to run a 40’s Chevy I beam. And a 10bolt rear. 6 lug all the way around. Engine is a 440 and a 727trans.
The engine trans combo was supposed to be a running driving set up. Well when I got it home I was lock up . I should know better and checked it but it was one of those buddy deals and I got screwed on $800 bucks. Oh well I guess it’ll be new now.
Here’s what I found!
A 4lb hammer and a brass drift and 4 hrs later she’s ready to get bored
 

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So this is wher I’m at. Slow progress. Working on getting the engine done so I can install it in the frame and the set up the front and rear axle.
I know I can do it nowbut if you haven’t seen yet I’m trying to build this thing in a 1 car garage with a slopped drive way. So one thing at a time......
 
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Looking good on the progress so far.

Great move on the roof and firewall. I like the style lines in the roof.

Don't take this the wrong way....?...... wear earplugs, safety glasses, and put the grinder guard back on?? I used to hand out that stuff at work when someone worked without it.:)
 
The best thing about rat rods is that, after safety, there are really no rules. Esthetic is in the eye of the builder.

It looks like you have incorporated some cool ideas. I like the roof. Definitely agree about overkill on the frame, but your C/G will be nice and low like a Vette, and if you hit something, that something will be the thing that bends.

Welcome aboard. Keep having fun.
 
Thanks for the kind words. Awesome being able to do what ever without a mold to stay in. Oh and I have safety glasses on:eek:
As far as the rest I probably should but don’t.
Thanks for lookin out tho.
 
Great looking start and great/creative use of existing sheet metal.[cl
Back in the day we used to look for van and station wagon roof that had ribs in them to use to fill in roofs.
[P [P [P
Torchie
 
So let me do some brain picking here. How wide should the front spring be mounted suicide? The frame is 27” I’ve had guys tell me to use a spring pack from tractor supply but they seem pretty lite for the 440 torque and horse power I’m putting out. What y’all think? Is ther a standard?
 
Great looking start and great/creative use of existing sheet metal.[cl
Back in the day we used to look for van and station wagon roof that had ribs in them to use to fill in roofs.
[P [P [P
Torchie

Thanks, that was my original thinking but wanted something I haven’t seen before.
 
Great looking start and great/creative use of existing sheet metal.[cl
Back in the day we used to look for van and station wagon roof that had ribs in them to use to fill in roofs.
[P [P [P
Torchie
Its great fun to cut up the roof of an old Nomad to make roof filler panels for a Model A. [ddd :D :D
 
So let me do some brain picking here. How wide should the front spring be mounted suicide? The frame is 27” I’ve had guys tell me to use a spring pack from tractor supply but they seem pretty lite for the 440 torque and horse power I’m putting out. What y’all think? Is ther a standard?
The eye-to-eye "width" of the spring is dependent on the spacing of the spring perches. All the spring sellers have diagrams for that. The blade (wrong term, I am sure) width (1.5, 2, etc.) will usually depend on the axle you are using, as the spring perches are a set size. Different weight rated springs are the issue that seem to be your concern. The tractor supply place will have trailer springs, I assume. They will be rated. The spring on the front if my altered is really small, and it has a 351 Cleveland/AOD riding on it.
 
The eye-to-eye "width" of the spring is dependent on the spacing of the spring perches. All the spring sellers have diagrams for that. The blade (wrong term, I am sure) width (1.5, 2, etc.) will usually depend on the axle you are using, as the spring perches are a set size. Different weight rated springs are the issue that seem to be your concern. The tractor supply place will have trailer springs, I assume. They will be rated. The spring on the front if my altered is really small, and it has a 351 Cleveland/AOD riding on it.

Thanks for the repl . I guess I should of said what I am using. The axle is out of a 40’s Chevy truck. I ordered a set of bat wings. The tractor supply ones say ther 1800lb springs but the seem pretty short to me with out having a tape on hand
 

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