Scratch built 33-ish roadster

Rat Rods Rule

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Couple more pics...
 

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Finished building the intake manifold and mounted the carbs and scoop, lakester headers made - they are corked up and a diverter pipe angles down from the collector to feed the exhaust underneath .Also made the windshield frame from 1/8" plate with a channel welded into the side posts for the glass to slide into. The top bar is held on by a screw at each end - glass is slid in from the top, glued in place, then the top bar bolted on , more glue. It was some fun making the one piece lower part with the posts integrated and getting it to fit to the cowl, but it gives a cleaner look when done. This set of pics also shows a redesigned cowl top - it had a bit too much of an upward curve in the center so I cut it out and lowered the whole tube edge and made a new sheetmetal cowl top [;)[;)
Also done here is the trunk lid, tail light mounting and a recessed rear plate mount.
 

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I really like the manifold [cl, any tuning problems [S

It actually worked pretty good, I tried to keep the plenum volume down, hoping to keep mixture velocity up in the process. I never really did drive it too hard [ddd, I ran the carbs right as they came out of the box, just basic 600 CFM vac secondary Holleys. For max drag strip performance, a dyno tune, high stall converter and deeper rear gears than the 3.00 it had would have probably turned some respectable times. As it was, it made a great cruiser that was reliable in traffic or on the highway.

I heard that. It's crazy [S

ZZ, are those oval exhaust tips? Or is the entire underneath exhaust tubing oval?[P

Just the rear foot and a half were oval pipe that I made by squashing some 3" electrical conduit that I had laying around. [;)
 
More progress...
Stainless grille, made from flat bar welded around the edge to form a right angle flange so the grille bars - welded to the backside - are recessed.
Made aluminum valve covers. Used 3/8" plate for the base flange, 1/4" plate for the sides and ends and 1/2" plate for the top. Before welding the top pieces on, I ran them through the table saw with a carbide tipped blade to cut the grooves to give them a finned look.
Built the removable roof, framework of 1" angle iron and 1" square tube, skinned with 20ga. Wanting a look similar to a rag top, I ran it forward of the windshield frame to give it a bit of a visor effect, this also hides the wiper blade a bit. I later changed the rear window shape too a more curved top edge similar to the last photoshopped pic.
 

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I hope you have signed/numbered each of the vehicles you have created from scratch or restyled. They are and will be collector's items.

[cl

Keep up the good work.
 
A few more from the same day.
 

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Frame and drivetrain all painted up and assembled. :)
 

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Skipping past the nasty bondo - prime, sand, prime, etc. stages, right to the painted bod, fresh from the garage - er- paint booth...
 

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Body has landed! Really hard to work on in a sane fashion when it gets to this stage as the excitement meter goes off the scale ....:D
Sitting at ride height in these pics. It took some major patience to get the window frame to bolt to the cowl without gouging the paint due to the slight changes in the shape of the cowl that occurred during the bodywork stage, but it worked out - glass was glued in after mounting the frame.
 

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