Atomic 50 f1

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I did get really lucky friday. A friend of a friend had 2 sets of 390 headers, still in the original boxes, hedman and cyclone. Got the cyclone headers for $50 with collectors, bolts and the mail in lifetime warranty. I haven't seen the cyclone brand for at least 20 years.
 
We were just talking about Cyclone headers and purple horny glass packs on Lowbudgets Extended cab Model A build thread.:eek: :D :cool:
Sounds like a great deal. :cool: :cool:
Torchie
 
Merry Christma. Got my headlights mounted on the grill in 10 inches of snow.
 

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Found a 5 inch hubcap on eBay for the grille. The original bullet nose grille emblem is $750, this cost $10. So far I'm off Sunday so I might get something done.
 

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If you go with that carb set up you need to reduce the fuel pressure down to like 3 psi, Speedway has a regulator for them. A friend of mine has run that set up on 3 or 4 different cars, he had problems with it blowing gas up on the windshield if he got down on it so a tech at Speedway told him what the problem was.
 
If you go with that carb set up you need to reduce the fuel pressure down to like 3 psi, Speedway has a regulator for them. A friend of mine has run that set up on 3 or 4 different cars, he had problems with it blowing gas up on the windshield if he got down on it so a tech at Speedway told him what the problem was.

I love the looks of that setup. I'm glad you told me that. I had problems with edelbrock carbs until I started running a regulator at 5 psi.
 
I was wondering if I can use a panhard bar as a drag link? I was going to cut the original drag link in half and plug weld the ends in a pipe to get 31 inches but I'd rather have adjustment with heim joints. I wanted to use the ball ends that are pressed in due to I really don't want to go through the hassle of getting them out.
 
A draglink has a straight push or pull job, so as long as it's straight it will take quite a pounding. A pan-hard bar is usually made of better than average stuff so it should work alright. What if you cut your draglink and lathed down the ends so they would fit inside of the pipe you are going to use, then weld the ends of the pipe? That way the ends of the pipe are strengthened by the slimmer draglink jammed in quite a ways, so the welds are not the questionable spot.
You might be surprised when you cut your draglink. There are lots of them that are already pipes.
Good luck.
 
Got all the chassis together except front shocks and brake lines. Going out now to get the 390 ready to pull so I can make the trans mount. It will be easier without the cab.
 

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