Help me pedal my hot rod

OK , I Z'ed frame 6'' and mounted the body . With the engine mounted at original height and at 3 degrees , I'm into a raised and enlarged transmission hump . Now I'm stuck figuring out how to mount my clutch , brake and accelerator pedals and have enough room to operate them .

I can do I using a Turbo tranny but I'd rather us my 4 speed .

Any input here ?

Thx ,
Gonzo

What cab or body are you using? What manual trans do want to use? can you use swing pedals under dash?

I am confused, if the engine is at original height why would the trans hump need to be raised? is the body channeled over the frame? is this the motor and trans that came in the vehicle? we need more info and some pictures might help.

Given the minimal information, lack of dimensions, pictures etc, the best advice I can give is to...... ......squeeze them in....

Seriously, what did you want, a magic device that will allow one pedal to do all three functions?

But, I'll tell you of an idea I had years ago, a brake pedal that pivots/seesaws halfway up. Push the top and you are braking, push the bottom and you're on the throttle. It'd take some getting used to but..... you only have two pedals. [cl

You could make the clutch and brake look identical, baffle all those who peer int your cockpit.

Beatnik Bandit (I think)

Ed Roth did it all with one joy stick in the console. F=go B-stop L=left R=right. Accelerator, brakes, steering all in one stick.

Not sure the lady at the DMV would understand.

sawzall said:

I am confused, if the engine is at original height why would the trans hump need to be raised? is the body channeled over the frame? is this the motor and trans that came in the vehicle? we need more info and some pictures might help.

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He Z'd the frame in the front 6" so now the cab is 6" lower than stock compared to the motor.

Small pedals and go barefoot, hand operated clutch, or gas pedal on the hump (I've seen it done.)

That was one of the toughest parts on my rpu. I spent a week, building, tearing out and re-doing. I used a mid 30s Ford spoon gas pedal, not too tough but I don't have much tunnel, my gas pedal foot actually rests on a flat place in the tunnel.

You might look into small cars. I used a '96 geo metro for mine, I have about a 12x12 floorboard. lol

Just take that thing around past that and under there instead of over that and i think you've got it

gonegonzo, I looked through your statistics and didn't find a build thread??? Did you start one and I just overlooked it???
It would be way easier if you had one and would also post some pics.
This is the hidden evil of Z'ing a frame.
If you can move the engine forward it'll help some.
When lowering a cab/body, the larger tranny hump can be minimized by doing a 3" Z and a 3" channel to get the 6" total wanted.
Since the Z'ing is already done, you'll have to tighten up the space between the pedals by doing something like sneaky did.

Old Iron said:

gonegonzo, I looked through your statistics and didn't find a build thread??? Did you start one and I just overlooked it???
It would be way easier if you had one and would also post some pics.
This is the hidden evil of Z'ing a frame.
If you can move the engine forward it'll help some.
When lowering a cab/body, the larger tranny hump can be minimized by doing a 3" Z and a 3" channel to get the 6" total wanted.
Since the Z'ing is already done, you'll have to tighten up the space between the pedals by doing something like sneaky did.

Click to expand...

Isn't a 3" Z and 3" channel going to get your drivetrain in the same place in relation to the floor as a 6" Z...?

Not really because technically the floor moves up 3 inches in relation to the cabin

just throwing this out there........VW. The aftermarket type used on sand rails.

05snopro440 said:

Isn't a 3" Z and 3" channel going to get your drivetrain in the same place in relation to the floor as a 6" Z...?

Click to expand...

Willowbilly3 said:

Not really because technically the floor moves up 3 inches in relation to the cabin

Click to expand...

Just imagine having the cab mounted in the factory location and cut the perimeter of the floor and lowering the cab around the floor 6". The only thing moved down is the cab.
If you didn't have a tranny/drive shaft hump you still wouldn't have one.

Old Iron said:

Just imagine having the cab mounted in the factory location and cut the perimeter of the floor and lowering the cab around the floor 6". The only thing moved down is the cab.
If you didn't have a tranny/drive shaft hump you still wouldn't have one.

Click to expand...

Ah, I was not thinking of moving the floor. I guess it depends how the body mounts, depending on what he's working on.

Thank you all for your input . I don't have a build thread a I'm not savy with the computer/picture techs.. I realize that a picture would help . My cab is a 1950 Chevy 3 window pickup .

The drive train is a 250 C.I. Chevy inline 6 running thru a Muncie 4 speed . One thing I didn't mention was that I wear a size 15 shoe which compounds the problem .

I did think of a had throttle but the thoughts of it's operation ended that .

I like what Sneaky has going on and will probably be out looking for pedals today.

Thx
Gonzo

Hand operated clutch mounted outside the drivers door. Reach thru the window and push/pull to operate....