Trailer

Not sure where to put this here goes...
I have been looking around for a trailer to haul a few cars on. The ones I see are more $$$ then I am thinking of spending and some of the used ones are just to weak to put a VW on.
I was wondering if any one has built there own trailer? I want some thing that will haul around 7000 to 10000 pounds. Looking for something about 18 or 20 foot. If you did build one what did it cost you?

Any advise or pictures will be great.

Thanks

52 fordman

I built mine, but a lot of the material was free. I started with a heavy boat trailer frame made from 4" channel. Not sure what it was designed for, but it was a single axle. I put two mobile home axles under it and extended the length from 12' to 16' of usable floor space. I added cross members where needed, and used two 12" wide house trailer beams laid on their sides for runners at first. I then figured out I would be limited in what width vehicle I could haul, so I spread them apart, placing them about 4 inches away from the tires. After welding/bolting them down, I then floored it with some 2"x10" lumber I had, some of it was treated, some wasn't. That floor didn't last but a few years, so this time, I floored it with some pieces of LVL beams that were given to me. The LVL is plywood, and is 2.5" thick. I painted it before I put it on. It still looks great two years later. If you look through the build thread on my 47 Lincoln, you can see pics of the trailer with the Lincoln sitting on it. It has hauled my 1955 IH farm tractor with a 5' bush hog on it without a problem.






I have the center boards ready to put on to finish the floor, but haven't installed them yet. I left them out so I could use the trailer as a poor mans lift so I could work under the car. I'm making them removable so I can use them or not as needed.

I've built a "few" trailers, small, large, open and enclosed. All were built with certain advantage... meaning, wholesale materials and parts.

I was once an RV dealer and bought axles, wheels, tires, brakes, etc. at a very good price. I also bought steel at a jobber rate which made these projects feasible.

Those days are gone... though I could still pull some favors and get those things at a rate, the parts and materials thrown in a pile cost more than a manufactured piece... often a better trailer than I could build at a better price.

Volume buying, volume manufacturing, volume pricing. Hard to beat and though the quality of these products vary considerably, I would seek the best quality candidate, new or used.

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I build most of my own. This is my light duty trailer, don't haul anything over about 4500# for any distance. It is made from a travel trailer torsion axles that I widened out. Also the main frame is from another travel trailer. It's the best pulling trailer I've ever used, partly because it has shocks on the torsion axles. I purposely did not make a place to stow ramps because I hate rattling trailers.

The fenders are 3/16" thick metal that I have bent from 12" wide strap and then I notch and bend into a fender. They cost about $75 3-4 years ago and you can drive over them if you need. My big trailer is a factory made and has those flimsy tin store bought fenders that are always getting bent.
I have varying widths of planks and don't recommend going more that 6" wide on those because the wider boards cup bad, even with them crowned when I installed them.
I'm getting ready to build my next trailer, a steel deck 24' tilt and I have 7000# axles for it.
Also, since I tow with a dually, I place the axles a little further back so the truck carrys a little more of the weight, comes in handy when hauling something longer like a farm truck that's long or has a lot of rear overhang. Anyone who has ever made a trip without enough tongue weight knows what I'm talking about.

I bought mine this spring. Payed 3200 if i remember correct, full tilt deck, fold down fender on driver side, and extra d rings for more tie down points. I use the crap out of it. Best money i have spent in a while.

I had about 5 bills into the green trailer and ran it on used tires a couple years, then invested in new trailer spec radials. I hate tire trouble and don't run junk tires on anything. I think it cost around $350 to put new skins on.
My advice, if you build your own make sure you have brakes that work good on all 4 wheels. I used to tow trailers with no brakes but people drive too crazy to take that chance anymore.

lowbudget50 said:

I bought mine this spring. Payed 3200 if i remember correct, full tilt deck, fold down fender on driver side, and extra d rings for more tie down points. I use the crap out of it. Best money i have spent in a while.

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Can't have too many tie down points. I need to add some D-rings to my trailer.

If you plan to haul 10,000#, you will need 7000# axles. The ones that take 8 hole wheels. Decent used E rated 16 tires are getting near impossible to find since pickups went to 17 and 18s years ago. Expect to pay $200 each for good tires, $700-$900 for a new set of 7000# axles with springs and hangers. So right off the bat you have $1500 laid out and you haven't even bought iron, hitch, jack, lights, fenders. You could probably make a trip to Texas or Oklahoma and buy a new trailer cheaper than you can build one using all new materials.

Willowbilly3 said:

My advice, if you build your own make sure you have brakes that work good on all 4 wheels. I used to tow trailers with no brakes but people drive too crazy to take that chance anymore.

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X2[P

As stated, you will be money ahead to buy it and way less headache. You can buy decent used equipment trailers for $2500.

What are you planning on hauling that weighs 10k?

I know washington state requires you to have a recipt for every think you have on it. They are making it a pain in the but to home build them. That right there is why i bought mine.

I have gone through what you are over the last 7 months and I came to the conclusion that I just can't get the steel at a cheap enough price to warrant the cost and time of building one. I wanted a 10K gvwr tilt deck trailer and it was going to cost me $1900 for the steel and another $800-$1200 for the axles, $500 for rims and tires, $150 for lights and wiring etc. And at this point I had not even ran a bead or cut a stick of box tube. I bought a Kaufman 10K tilt deck for $4100 ($500 to deliver to my door) and have been happy with it ever since. My old trailer was a home built with house trailer axles and I always had to mess with it. Didn't tow well, too tall, wore out tires, had to mess with ramps and due to the wide 5 style rim I could never get it to run smooth. All the used ones I found were $2500-$3200 and were on average 10-14 years old. Up here that means scaly rust underneath etc.

Old trailer


New trailer

There is a dealer in Fayetteville TN I see advertising on Craigslist all the time, a 20' dovetail, wood floor, brakes, 3500 lb axles with new trailer tires, for around $2000. I think it can be upgraded to 7000 lb axles for $500 more.
When my rich uncle gets out of the poorhouse I'm wanting to get one of their 18' with the same specs, advertised for $1800.

3500# axles are ok for the average car haul but a little light. If you are buying a new trailer, spend a little more and go heavier. You don't have to go to the 7000#, there are a couple sizes in between.

Willowbilly3 said:

3500# axles are ok for the average car haul but a little light. If you are buying a new trailer, spend a little more and go heavier. You don't have to go to the 7000#, there are a couple sizes in between.

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5200# axles work well for most appilications

Last one that was hauled in here was a 2500 Chevy dually with bad ball joints. Just want to make sure what I get ( don't think about building anymore , thanks guys) will haul any thing that I might need. Just going to have to spend a little money.

Thank all of you


52 fordman

Be sure you put trailer tires on a trailer. Car and truck tires are different. They will hold air, but it won't handle as good. Also get the biggest tallest tire as this slows down wheel speed and is easier on wheel bearings. Get the load range E tire. Do not cut corners on tires and brakes it will cost you in the long run.

RPM said:

Be sure you put trailer tires on a trailer. Car and truck tires are different. They will hold air, but it won't handle as good. Also get the biggest tallest tire as this slows down wheel speed and is easier on wheel bearings. Get the load range E tire. Do not cut corners on tires and brakes it will cost you in the long run.

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Most people don't realize that if you are using a car trailer commercially and they have car or truck tires on it they can be sited for it by your friendly dot officers.