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Body... Talk & Q&A Top Chop, Channel & General Body Q&A

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  #11  
Old 02-12-2019, 04:18 PM
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Speaking from the other end, never hold it against a shop who doesn't want to give you a "ballpark" figure - especially over the phone. This can often come back to bite them in the ass, because they have no idea what you actually have or potential issues you may be unaware of. Most small business owners treat phone calls as price fishing from people that usually don't have the money anyway, and they usually are. May not be your case, but it is true more often than not.

Best way to do it is stop in, be a real person, and ask if there is anyone there with experience doing class in vintage automobiles. If there is, ask to speak to him. You'll get much farther with an intro and a handshake than a voice on a phone. Just my experience...
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  #12  
Old 02-12-2019, 05:07 PM
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Words of wisdom
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  #13  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Eyed Devil View Post
Best way to do it is stop in, be a real person, and ask if there is anyone there with experience doing class in vintage automobiles. If there is, ask to speak to him. You'll get much farther with an intro and a handshake than a voice on a phone. Just my experience...
That's exactly what I did. The shop owner was happy to burn an hour of his time with another car guy... this (in my opinion) is the screening process... however, I'd expect reaching the same guy over the phone would yield decent results... as long as you speak the same language...

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Originally Posted by Darksyde View Post
Can anyone tell me what kind or what style window seal I would use?
The guy I spoke with prefers Soff Seal... actually, he said, "You provide Soff Seal or I do."

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  #14  
Old 02-14-2019, 09:57 PM
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Along with what Blue Eyed Devil was saying, sometimes I can flesh out a price from someone by saying "I'm trying to get an idea what I need to budget for this I mean are we talking $500 or $5000 for an average job?" Then they might open up a little and give an idea of where their prices are.
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  #15  
Old 02-15-2019, 09:50 AM
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Doc, I went to the Soft Seal website and all the 49 and older says, they don't have the parts for them.
What am I missing?
Example: 1948 Chevy Fleetline
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  #16  
Old 02-15-2019, 06:53 PM
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Old Iron, I read your post from my office today. (I never log in while on the company network and therefore, can't reply from there.)

... regardless, I was sure the shop owner said Soff Seal, but your post made me think twice. I called the shop this afternoon and sure enough, I'm wrong. He recommends and prefers Steele Rubber Products.

This is what I get when I rely on my memory... NFG. My apologies to you, Darksyde and everyone here. I should write things down... or, enter the pertinent information in my omnipresent PHONE.

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  #17  
Old 02-15-2019, 11:42 PM
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No big deal
I thought you had steered me to a new supplier
I never spit out incorrect info
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  #18  
Old 04-23-2019, 10:44 AM
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When I was doing windows in my 36 I called a couple shops and both had a $ price per square inch and a cut fee. Was pretty easy to guess price from there.

Kinda an old topic and its probably done by now but just posting my experience
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2019, 10:46 AM
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If you haven't had this done yet, make sure that the glass shop marks that the windshield is automotive safety glass on your receipt and that they cut at least the windshield from that. It's needed to meet the Alberta Vehicle Equipment Regulation.
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  #20  
Old 05-13-2019, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darksyde View Post
Can anyone tell me what kind or what style window seal i would use?
If the windshield is going to install as it did stock, you would use a stock-style windshield rubber. If you are using urethane to seal the windshield to a lip behind it, get an S-10 windshield rubber from the glass shop (most glass shops have that style in stock).
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