1952 F-6 Build

Wow, seeing these old flatheads brings back memories. I used to buy old Ford 8N and 9N tractors ,restore them ,and sell em. I think at one time I had 5 in my shop being worked on.

WOW... you are a busy man! Thanks for the education on the Flatty.... I'm still learning about anything other than a bowtie motor... That cab work looks good,I have plenty of that 'little stuff' to do.... keep at it, you are moving at a good pace!

Hot fun in the summertime.......

More blasting today. Slow progress.
Dash, door jams, ps cowl.
About all that's left to do is the back.
Thanks for looking in....
Torchie.

That's a gritty job for sure [cl [cl [P

Hows the sand taste? =)

Patina removal!

Old Iron said:

That's a gritty job for sure [cl [cl [P

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Especially in the summer heat OI. My beloved wife suggested that I do the blasting at the end of our drive as it needs some fill out by the mailbox.[S[S

Dirtyrat said:

Hows the sand taste? =)

Patina removal!

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No worries on that part DR as I keep all orifices covered at all times.
And at the rate that I am going it will all be in "Patina" sooner than it is finished.
Torchie.

Hey Torchie, looks great!

Looks great Torchie!!!! What are you using for your blasting media??? Also what type of blaster are you using? I picked up a gravity / siphon fed thing-a-ma-jig... I've played with it some, just looking for some tips, I have flow issues with mine from time to time, I recently put gravel in the bottom in hopes that it may help if flow better... any ideas?

The biggest things I've found on any blaster is the fitting/valve on the bottom needs to be changed out for a larger one, the media has to stay dry and the air supply from the compressor should have a dryer on it.

christcrusader13 said:

Looks great Torchie!!!! What are you using for your blasting media??? Also what type of blaster are you using? I picked up a gravity / siphon fed thing-a-ma-jig... I've played with it some, just looking for some tips, I have flow issues with mine from time to time, I recently put gravel in the bottom in hopes that it may help if flow better... any ideas?

Click to expand...

Old Iron said:

The biggest things I've found on any blaster is the fitting/valve on the bottom needs to be changed out for a larger one, the media has to stay dry and the air supply from the compressor should have a dryer on it.

Click to expand...

I am using medium(80 grit)sand.
Just a cheapie siphon hopper blaster. Holds about 50 lbs of medium at a time.
OI has it right although I haven't changed out the lower fitting on this one as it is welded in. Moisture and flow.
My compresser is the biggest holdback on this setup. Not enough air volume for constant blasting so I have to start and stop to let the compresser catch up. But it's what I have so it's what I use.

gold03. It's good to hear from you brother. Any progress on yours?
Torchie.

Another wasted week as far as the project is concerned.

Was told by the Dr to take it easy this week as I somehow managed to wear a hole in the side of my residual limb. (That's what the Dr's call my stump).
So today I felt good enough to go out to the shop and do some things that didn't require too much standing.
First off. Pics 1-5.
2 snapped off head bolts in the flatty block. Decided to try the oft talked about method of welding a washer and a nut to the stud and then backing the shaft out. Easy-Peasy right.......
So much for that. Although I have read that it sometimes takes a couple of trys. Any suggestions that you have actually had work are appreciated. Most likely just have the machine shop take them out.
So I moved on to the cab. Finished the welding on the firewall and then stood the cab on end to get at the floor framwe to finish welding that as well as some rust removal on the bottom edges.
Thanks for visiting......
Torchie.

Torchie, the only thing I have ever had much success with are easy-outs. Not 100% success for me tho. Getting the hole drilled right to start with is usually a problem for me.

I broke a bolt off today as well . It was an exhaust bolt on the head .The only good thing about it is it is on the edge.So I can drill right through it. Do what the DR says. Let yourself heal up .

smallfoot said:

Torchie, the only thing I have ever had much success with are easy-outs. Not 100% success for me tho. Getting the hole drilled right to start with is usually a problem for me.

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I believe that easy-outs are possibly the most mis-named things in the world smallfoot.[S My concern is that on the flatheads some of these head bolts go right up to a waterjacket and if the broken bolt is drilled thru they can puncture the water jacket as well. Plus I have a history of snapping off easy-outs.
i will try the welded nut thing one more time.

icebox said:

I broke a bolt off today as well . It was an exhaust bolt on the head .The only good thing about it is it is on the edge.So I can drill right through it. Do what the DR says. Let yourself heal up .

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One of the bolts was already snapped when I got the engine IB. And then I snapped the other taking off the heads.
Thanks for the concern as well. I am generally a good boy when it comes to Dr's orders these days. Can't say that I have always been though.....[ddd
Torchie.

I'm saying a shot with the freeze-off spray too, that stuff just plain works...

I worked in a machine shop where the owner taught me how to get broken bolts out.

Center punch the bolt. File flat if you need to.

Drill with a small 1/8" or smaller bit gradually increasing size.

Most of the time the bolt will spin on the bit as you get to larger sizes.

Now I use left handed bits (they spin counter clockwise) and the bolts usually just spin right out after you increase the size a few times.

If the bolt will not come out we put a heli-coil. Head bolts included.

We refused to use Easyouts and charged a good amount when people came in with broken easyouts stuck in their broken bolts.

From the "Can't live with that" file....

Paul_J said:

I worked in a machine shop where the owner taught me how to get broken bolts out.

Center punch the bolt. File flat if you need to.

Drill with a small 1/8" or smaller bit gradually increasing size.

Most of the time the bolt will spin on the bit as you get to larger sizes.

Now I use left handed bits (they spin counter clockwise) and the bolts usually just spin right out after you increase the size a few times.

If the bolt will not come out we put a heli-coil. Head bolts included.

We refused to use Easyouts and charged a good amount when people came in with broken easyouts stuck in their broken bolts.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the ideas guys.
Paul _J I have used your method before with success. My main concern is that what old Henry called a grade 8 hardness is more like a Spinal Tap 11
I will not use an easy-out as I have had other machinest say the same as you.

So feeling my oats I went back out to the shop after dinner and took a good look at the bottom edge of the cab. Most importantly the fact that when I put in the floor frame pieces that go to the back edge of the bottom of the cab I must have been ......

Pic 1. You can kind of see the arch that I created when I installed those 3 little frame pieces.[S[S[S That's got to go as once the box is put on what a mess it will be.

Pics 2-3.
Thats much better.[cl
Nothing worse than having to redo your own mistakes.......
Thanks for stopping by.
Torchie.

I was able to successfully do the welded nut removal on a broken bolt in some highway pegs on my motorcycle & what I noticed in all my failed attempts was how far the bulk of the weld was away from the stuck/broken bolt.

As I see it, the two primary goals in the welded nut technique are 1) returning a surface for applying a tool to the bolt and 2) putting heat on the bolt/stud in need of removal.

So what I would modify on any re-attempts you may try is to go hotter-more on the weld between the stud & washer, then weld on the INSIDE of the nut.

I think I have some pics of mine on my pedal car build.

-Chaz

clamor said:

I was able to successfully do the welded nut removal on a broken bolt in some highway pegs on my motorcycle & what I noticed in all my failed attempts was how far the bulk of the weld was away from the stuck/broken bolt.

As I see it, the two primary goals in the welded nut technique are 1) returning a surface for applying a tool to the bolt and 2) putting heat on the bolt/stud in need of removal.

So what I would modify on any re-attempts you may try is to go hotter-more on the weld between the stud & washer, then weld on the INSIDE of the nut.

I think I have some pics of mine on my pedal car build.

-Chaz

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Thanks for the comment Chaz.
You can't tell from the pics but I did weld inside the nut as well as out.
Who knows. This bolt may have been snapped of 40 years ago and there looks to be a fair amount of corrosion on the remaining shaft.
My main concern is that I don't make matters worse as good flathead blocks are getting scarce in my neck of the woods.
I will give it one more try though.
Torchie.

As promised.......

.....One more try with the weld-on-nut.
2nd verse same as the first. I welded the snot out of it. Inside and out. So I'm thinking this is going to be one for the machine shop.
Also managed to hobble out to the back 40 and drag in a pallet.
Put the cab up on it. I should be able to skid it out of the shop and onto the dirt drive to finish up the sandblasting. At least that's the plan for now.
Thanks for looking in.....
Torchie.