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No guide coat Dr. I’ve got some long battens as well as a 6 foot level that I will just lay on the bottom as I go along. The factory guidelines for bottom fairing says that a1/8 of an inch difference is acceptable.🙀 We will do better then that.
I may use my DA or go whole hog and pick up a cheap HF variable speed sander/ polisher. I will use a foam pad in it with 40 grit to begin and the go to my air board with 80 grit. About 3 hits of labor per side.
It doesn’t have to be perfect as I’m not building a 500 hp drag boat.😳
Torchie

Thanks for the explanation. I had no idea how smooth you want, or need it to be. :eek:

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Thanks for the explanation. I had no idea how smooth you want, or need it to be. :eek:

.

Just like cars now. Theses boats tend to get over restored . Dr.
The two schools of thought on bottoms seems to be.....
Make it so it doesn’t leak and don’t sweat it because only the fish will see it.😳
Make it so it looks as finished as the varnished parts of the boat.
I tend to go for no leaks and as smooth as possible with out obsessing over it.
Torchie
 
What I'd call, "a happy medium". [cl

.

Yep. Emphasis on the "Happy."[cl :D
It's been a week today so the 5200 should be fully cured by now.
I wetted down the hull again yesterday and this morning it looks dry. But if you put your hand under the plastic you can still feel moisture so I will let it sit. Covered for another day. or so.
You can also see how the seams that were wiped smooth are now slightly proud of the planks. This is the way it should look at this point. The planks have swelled up creating a good seal with the bead of 5200.
This seams will all get cleaned up during the fairing process.
You can also see that some screws need to be reset a bit deeper. I may start that this afternoon.
Thanks for visiting....
Torchie
 

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Amazing amount of work to restore one of these. How much of the original boat is left? you have way more patience[P[P than me.

As far as the bottom goes kenny. Not much :eek: :D The engine stringersThe lon timbers that run the length of the boat on either side of the keel. Most of the keel. The stem(Bow piece). and 2 main frames. Some would even question why I just didn't replace those parts as well.

Torchie, I'll stick to hot rods. Looks a lot easier and less time consuming. Great work though.
Thanks bob. I don't disagree with you. I made a commitment though to finish this bottom so forward we go.
Torchie
 
Finished going over the entire hull and resetting the screws that were too shallow.
Started on making the chine caps.
It's the really light colored piece of wood that runs the entire length of the hull and give the outer edge of the bottom a finished look.
The factory caps were one piece. These will be 2 with a scarfed joint.
Again, other then the first 16 ??? inches this will all get painted.
On to the other side tomorrow.
Torchie
 

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Are you done with it, then? Somebody else will finish the rest?

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I'll be done with it once the bottom has paint on it DR.
I told my bro -in-law that I couldn't store it another winter as I need the shop space to get back to my cars.
As far as the rest of the boat goes..... That has yet to be determined. I feel that too many of my skills are fading to be able to re plank the rest of the boat by myself.
Worked up the PS chine cap today. These will eventually go all the way back to the transom. Then I will plain them down flush to the surface of the bottom planks.
Once a new sanding pad for my polisher/sander gets here I will start on the first step in fairing the bottom.
Thanks for looking in......
Torchie
 

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I appreciate your explanation and your position more than you know, Torchie. Without going into detail, I'm beginning to struggle with my abilities. I don't pretend for a minute to be in your shoe, but the writing is on the wall...

"What I used to do all day, now takes me all day."

.
 
I appreciate your explanation and your position more than you know, Torchie. Without going into detail, I'm beginning to struggle with my abilities. I don't pretend for a minute to be in your shoe, but the writing is on the wall...

"What I used to do all day, now takes me all day."

.
What I love about RRR/UDS. We don't take ourselves overly seriously.

[cl [cl [cl [cl [cl
 
I appreciate your explanation and your position more than you know, Torchie. Without going into detail, I'm beginning to struggle with my abilities. I don't pretend for a minute to be in your shoe, but the writing is on the wall...

"What I used to do all day, now takes me all day."

.

LOl Ain't that the truth,Doc.:eek: :p No worries though. Don't stop till you drop.:D

What I love about RRR/UDS. We don't take ourselves overly seriously.

[cl [cl [cl [cl [cl

Nobody else takes us seriously either, Skip.:D :p [cl

About 1000 holes filled. About the same to go.... That's for tomorrow.:)
Torchie
 

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I appreciate your explanation and your position more than you know, Torchie. Without going into detail, I'm beginning to struggle with my abilities. I don't pretend for a minute to be in your shoe, but the writing is on the wall...

"What I used to do all day, now takes me all day."

.

I feel your pain. I'm in the same boat. Strength and stamina are one thing but the memory has me scared.
 
I feel your pain. I'm in the same boat. Strength and stamina are one thing but the memory has me scared.

Its the same here, kenny.
"Where's my keys? Where's my phone? Did you see where I put my _ _ _ _ _last.":eek: :eek:
Finished filling the holes on the port side. ( There goes 5 hours of my life I will never get back.:p )
Tried out the new pad on my Polisher/Sander. It will work well.:cool:
Next step is to go over the entire bottom with a 40 grit disc. Then recheck the filled holes and put a slicky over the ones as needed. Then go over the entire bottom with my air board with 80 grit on it.
I might do more of that later. Time to give my back a break.:eek: :cool: :D
Keep on keeping on.....
Torchie
 

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