Mini Muscle Car

I trimmed out the lower control arm bracket in the area where the original shock mounted. Then welded in a piece of 3/8" by 1 1/2" with 4 holes in it. Should be stronger and provide some adjustability.

An overall view of the frame. It will be cut off just in front of the lower control arms. The rear kick up will start there and extend rearward to the springs/shocks.

This is cool

Dang........................
Just.........................

Dang...........................

Good progress and the front cross member is just to cute

The rear of the frame is almost done. Lower and upper control arms are mounted. Still have to make the upper coil over mounts and finish weld everything. Since I used somewhat small rectangular tubing there will be diagonal bracing added.

Front mounts of the lower control arms are made fron 3/16" CRS. They will be boxed some more.

Upper control arm mounts are angled. Made from 3/16" CRS. The upper control arms were semi fimished pieces. I didn't have weld bungs so I welded two 3/4" NF nuts together and rosette welded them in the tube. That allows full thread engagement for the 3/4" sphereical rod ends. I'll weld around the open end later.

Looking fine Bob. I can see lots of finish welding in your future.
Stay after it.

Yep Pops, lots of welding ahead. I did add some longer tack welds here and there to support the sbc block and crank and the 700R4 trans I dropped in place today. It's pretty tight around the motor mounts so some creative metal work will be necessary.
I need to keep the engine forward to keep it out of my lap inside the car. Also need to make sure the large balancer (400 sbc engine) doesn't interfere with the pinion shaft coming out of the rack. Building little cars requires some careful planning, or a lot of rework.

Bob..is that an optical illusion?

Or does that frame drop a bit down behind the engine? [S

Made some simple motor mounts with 3/16" plate and rectangular tubing. There will a 1/2" thick rubber pad between the mount and the frame.
Yes, Sarge, the frame takes a big drop south just past where the a arm attaches. There's a method to my madness which I'll show later.

Very simple trans crossmember made from 1 3/4" by 1 3/4" .120" wall square tubing and a little piece of 2 1/2" heavy angle iron. Welded in. I don't see a need for a K member or additional bracing in this area on this 27" wide frame with a 90" wheelbase. There will be some additional gusseting starting at the rear kickup and going rearward.

Somebody stole the top of your motor, Bob.[ddd

Cool little frame![cl

By "Z-ing" the frame way forward I get the frame rail out of the way of the headers or manifolds, whichever I decide to use.
The frame will have 10" outriggers down both sides to tie in to the Renault rocker boxes. The exhaust system will have to fight for space with those outriggers.
Sarge, I misunderstood your question. The answer is, no, there's only the initial big drop way forward.

90" wheelbase. WOW! This is going to be a screamer bob.
Torchie.

I don't know how I have been missing this thread ! Very cool project. Bob, you are officially a madman ! (and I mean that in the kindest sense) That narrowed front end is very cute !

I haven't seen one of those cars in years and years. One of my teachers in HS had one, a white one. Always liked them.

Don

A Dauphine was the second car I ever owned back around '68 or '69, but I think perhaps the worst one I've ever owned. Be great to see how your vastly improved version works out.

sc5080 said:

A Dauphine was the second car I ever owned back around '68 or '69, but I think perhaps the worst one I've ever owned. Be great to see how your vastly improved version works out.

Click to expand...

I think it will be pretty good...
-tossed the under powered irrigation pump motor
-junked the sub-par air raid era electrical
-scrapped the weak link rear end
-86'ed the post war bread line designed front suspension
-will address the poor at best body fitment with USA elbow grease

= Win Win! [cl

Finished all the welding on the frame today. I'll slide it under the body til spring when I can do the weld beautification outside. Less grinding dust in the garage and the Rover project is top priority the rest of the winter.
Got the reshortened axles back from Moser one week after I sent them. Great service and a very fair price.
Yep, jfg4555, most of what is wrong with a Dauphine has been removed & disposed of. The poor body fit will remain that way however as will the original paint and surface rust.