Smoothing and preserving RUST...what's the best way???

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Thefarmboy21

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 28, 2014
Messages
55
Location
Lawrence county Ohio
I've got a 1950 international and a 1950's Radio Super wagon I'm currently working on for my sons. Both are all natural, un-touched, dark, pitted rust....and they're Beautiful!!! I just want to smooth them up a little, so they're not so rough to the touch and then preserve them the best way possible. The wagon also still has the original painted lettering that seems like it's still there, but is just really stained with rust color. I used a screwdriver and scraped the scaly/flakey stuff off the wagon body, and gently wore brushed it, then rubbed it with just a leather glove and it looks really good, but I think more can be done. I don't want to lighten the color of the rust. I want to keep it as dark and natural looking as I can, but I would like it to be smoother and bring the lettering back out some more if I can. Here's a few pics:







So my questions are these:
1. How do I smooth the pitted rust, without going too deep and not creating scratch marks? I've read you can use wads of aluminum foil. I also thought about some rubbing compound or mag wheel polish. Or maybe even a soft brass wheel brush on a low speed dremel.

2. What's the best way to preserve it? Most people I think clear coat over the rust, but how do you prep the surface so that it sticks an how long does the clear last? I've also read where some people oil rub the rust with linseed oil, or tranny fluid, etc.

Just want them to look the best tey can without changing the look per say. Thanks!!!
 
Look up Penetrol. But I don't think it is UV stable. Not that it matters, the rust will make it necessary to rework in a year or two anyhow. As for the pitted rust on the wagon - dunno.
 
Just my opinion but just about anything you do to "smooth" it will result in some lightening of color. Something has to be done to the rust tho, like Sam said or you'll be working at it again soon. There is a product called Ospho( A light solution of phosphoric acid) A light wire brushing to remove flaky rust and a complete douse of Ospho will smooth some and convert the active iron oxide(rust) to iron phosphate. Iron phosphate is much harder and will be somewhat darker when completely dry. After the ospho dries, you will notice a whiteish powder. This can be removed by brushing with a nylon bristle brush. After this you are somewhat stable for a while but rust will start again unless you use some surface protection. There again it will be personal opinion, but things like wax, linseed oil, motor oil etc. will give varying finishes. The only "beware'' I can mention on your projects is avoid the painted area if you intend to keep them visible, as ospho, regardless of how watered down the solution, will try to remove the paint. It is an acid.
I looked for a pic to show the different shades. This isn't the best shot but it shows the inside of my bed walls that are the only part I have put the Ospho to yet. I'm still trying to even out the rust color before doing the rest. My finish will be a 1/2 and 1/2 mixture of beeswax and mineral oil for a protective finish. This truck is probably 60 percent or more new sheet metal treated with another process to start the patina.
 

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