61 Volkswagen V8 Single Cab Street Rod

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My dad did some work on a Prefect for a neighbor that had been hot rodded long ago. It had a radiator from a Datsun pickup that wouldn't keep the 302 cool, but nothing else would fit and the guy didn't want to spend much. So we went through one of his supplier's catalogs and bought the largest heater core they had (it was almost as big as the radiator). Mounted it in a hole in the inner fender and it fixed the cooling issues.
 
05snopro440 said:
My dad did some work on a Prefect for a neighbor that had been hot rodded long ago. It had a radiator from a Datsun pickup that wouldn't keep the 302 cool, but nothing else would fit and the guy didn't want to spend much. So we went through one of his supplier's catalogs and bought the largest heater core they had (it was almost as big as the radiator). Mounted it in a hole in the inner fender and it fixed the cooling issues.
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Thanks for the information! I have high hopes that this will work in a similar way. I finished the compartment surrounding the new supplemental cooler today. Just need to get a piece of weatherstripping to seal the deflector to the inside of the scoop to force the air thru it.

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http://www.BenModified.com



 
I fitted a smaller water pump pulley on mine, to spin the pump a bit faster at idle and traffic speed. 650 idle sounds a bit low, water is hardly moving.

I also heard that synthetic oil can lower your engine temps quite efficiently, never tried it though.

I battled with overheating on mine for a couple of years but finally fitted a $150 aluminum Summit radiator and all was well. Also added a huge SPAL fan and an electronic temperature controller, and used a 160' thermostat.
 
King Herald said:
I fitted a smaller water pump pulley on mine, to spin the pump a bit faster at idle and traffic speed. 650 idle sounds a bit low, water is hardly moving.

I also heard that synthetic oil can lower your engine temps quite efficiently, never tried it though.

I battled with overheating on mine for a couple of years but finally fitted a $150 aluminum Summit radiator and all was well. Also added a huge SPAL fan and an electronic temperature controller, and used a 160' thermostat.
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Thanks for relaying your experiences! I also have a big summit aluminum radiator and a 160 degree thermostat with some very good fans and shroud. Coincidentally, I am making the switch to synthetic oil on my next oil change, so we will see. The temp reading that I showed in the photo was the hottest that it got. Around town and prolonged idling is only 180-185 degrees. It tends to heat up to the 210 range at the higher highway speeds. My theory is that the turbulence created by the cab roof is preventing the hot air from exiting the engine compartment. It is my understanding that the crate engine is designed to run at 210 (it came with a 190 thermostat) , so at this point I suppose that it is not really a problem, but when I finally finish the A/C install, the temps will rise so I am trying to look ahead a bit to prevent this future problem. I may vent the top of the hood if needed. The plan is to tape several pieces of yarn to the top of the hood and see which ways the air flows across the hood at speed to determine which way the vent opening should face.
 
Ben Modified said:
....Around town and prolonged idling is only 180-185 degrees. It tends to heat up to the 210 range at the higher highway speeds. My theory is that the turbulence created by the cab roof is preventing the hot air from exiting the engine compartment. ......
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I was told the old story several times: If it overheats at idle you don't have enough fan, but if it overheats at highway, you don't have enough radiator.


Mine worked the opposite way round, so you never know.

Most modern motors run at 220 all day long, but I don't like to see mine that hot. Be good to hear how your experience with synthetic oil goes.

I even thought about connecting another rad to the heater hoses, like you suggested, and mounting it under my pick-up bed, to dump heat out the back there. A lot of hot air comes back at me when my big fan is pumping away and those headers are like big heaters...

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I am making a big push to get this truck finished up. I have it up on the lift to cross things off a long list of minor items. I am also going to pull the cab off to finish up some welding on the underside.

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[/url]20160913_172307 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

First on the list is sectioning out a 4" section of the under seat A/C compartment. It is deeper than I need and cuts into my ground clearance.

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[/url]20160913_172112 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

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[/url]20160913_172123 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Also, finally getting around to finishing the bottom of the doors and moving the lower hinge up a few inches. Can't wait to trim off all that extra metal.

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[/url]20160913_172223 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Here are a few shots of the underside.

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[/url]20160913_104525 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

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[/url]20160913_104514 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

While I am at it, I will check that every nut and bolt is tight.

http://www.BenModified.com


 
sgtpontiac said:
Sure is coming along nicely...[cl [P
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Thanks!

Todays progress. I was able to finish sectioning the A/C Compartment. The front and back are welded in. I am going to wait to get the cab off before welding the sides.

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[/url]20160914_162149 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

The vents will eventually go out the front of the compartment and up thru the floor

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[/url]20160914_163958 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Made the final rough cut on the bottom of the door

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[/url]20160914_174639 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Also cut out the lower hinge. Tomorrow I will clean up the metal around it and relocate it up a couple of inches.

20160914_174650 by Ben Modified, on Flickr

http://www.BenModified.com

 
Spent the entire day moving the lower hinge on the passenger door, as well as capping off the lower section of the door.

First, I had to modify the mounting pad to angle the hinge

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[/url]20160915_093612 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Cut a piece of 3/16" flat bar to weld to the new mount area. Tapped the holes to accept the stock screws.

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[/url]20160915_150019 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Then trim up the door to accept the original hinge mount section from the further down door.

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[/url]20160915_102203 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

The hinge is in place

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[/url]20160915_150033 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Cut out a piece of metal to cap off the bottom of the door

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[/url]20160915_154705 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Welded in along with a piece of small round bar to give it a blunt edge

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[/url]20160915_171104 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

Just need to finish off the bottom of the nose where it meets the door and fab a channel on the inside of the door to accept weather strip along the bottom

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[/url]20160915_173703 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

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[/url]20160915_173914 by Ben Modified, on Flickr[/IMG]

http://www.BenModified.com
 
jmlcolorado said:
Can you tell me about the AC unit?
I'm thinking of running AC in mine but haven't really found a nice small one.
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It is an aftermarket under dash unit from Classic Auto Air in Tampa. It came with vents and hoses as well as all of the necessary parts to install. The hoses come with one end crimped on. You cut to length and have a local auto parts store crimp the other end to suit. The A/C supplier reduced the price as I already had the compressor.
 

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