1955 F600, heavy duty build.......with a bus.

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I know the video is long. Sorry bout that.

If you watched the videos, you’ll see that everything is lining up very well. Almost everything appears to be able to fit. All was going well until I remembered one important measurement to allow this truck to somewhat look Factory-ish.
Measurement from the ground to floor height.
We’re looking at about 5 1/2” difference between the bus and the Ford. Dangit.
That raises the bed height even more (it’s already a lot), changes the relationship between the front bumper and the grill, as well as puts 5 1/2” difference between the front fender and top of tire.
Dangit dangit dangit!
It was all lining up to look nearly stock with the exception of having to widen the front fenders quite a bit to fit the tires.
To remedy that, I was going to build come sort of fender flares or something.
We’re talking about 5” on each side.

Now the fenders will also be way higher than I had hoped.
I suppose I can cut the stock fenders, add a piece in to drop the wheel openin down 5”, then go out horizontally to gain the width I needed.
I guess that helps with radiator clearance......so there’s that I suppose.
 
You might be better off to just do an engine/transmission swap, and maybe rear end.

There is a guy near here that did much the same thing on a truck that model, he used the engine and rear from a bus, but he put it behind the cab and put a box sleeper over it. But his is a ramp truck, not a dump. As far as I know, he kept the stock front axle, but bought some one piece wheels off an import truck.
 
You might be better off to just do an engine/transmission swap, and maybe rear end.

There is a guy near here that did much the same thing on a truck that model, he used the engine and rear from a bus, but he put it behind the cab and put a box sleeper over it. But his is a ramp truck, not a dump. As far as I know, he kept the stock front axle, but bought some one piece wheels off an import truck.

I dunno. This seems a whole hellova lot easier than tying to squeeze this rear end (and all of its components) into this ford. Engine is 1500lbs dry, and the trans is 550 dry. The steering on this truck is 65 years old, and not really upgradable if I leave the front axle. Then trying to engineer better brakes.
Plus, I already have a bus or two....or three 😂.
Did you watch the video? Everything is lining up well except height from floor off ground.
 
I watched the videos.
We all know that pretty much anything can be done. Given Time and money. But should it...... And I don't mean that as a criticism. Just an observation
Can you channel the truck cab to lower it down on the frame more?
But then that presents the issue of the dump bed doesn't it.
And what about using the front fenders (Or parts of them) from the bus on the truck to reshape the front fenders?
You can shorten Solid front axels but it may affect your turn radius and doesn't solve the wide rear end either.
Just spitballing here. It's kind of hard to get a handle on things with out being there looking at them both.
We like to see what seems to be impossible done.
[P [P [P
 
I watched the videos.
Can you channel the truck cab to lower it down on the frame more?
But then that presents the issue of the dump bed doesn't it.
And what about using the front fenders (Or parts of them) from the bus on the truck?
You can shorten Solid front axels but it may affect your turn radius and doesn't solve the wide rear end either.
Just spitballing here. It's kind of hard to get a handle on things with out being there looking at them both.
[P [P [P

I thought about channeling actually. Wouldn’t effect the dump bed any as I would leave that where it’s at.
I’ve never been in the passenger seat of this truck until the other day. It was then I realized how worn out the drivers seat was. In the passengers seat my head was only a couple inches from the roof. And my polck buddy who’s a little over 6’ was basically kissing the ceiling. 🤣
So that rules that out.

I don’t know that I want to go through the effort of narrowing the axle. I’d like to keep the entire drivetrain and chassis as stock as possiable specifically for parts availability. That, and the way the steering is setup, doesn’t lean much room for that.
I’m totally open to suggestions though :)
 
Sell the buses, take the money and buy a 6BT with six speed or adapt one of the Alison's to it, install that in the original truck, while the engine and tranny are out, rebuild the axle with new king pins.
Sometimes a course change makes more sense.
 
I’m actually quite surprised at how many folks suggest a change of plans by not using one of the busses.
Other than a couple oddball measurements and pto adaptation issues, I’m not really seeing anything that screams stop.
 
I don't doubt that this can be done, as long as you're happy with the end results, it will be worth the hassle. I wish you were a hundred miles closer...I'd come help. :)
 
I’m actually quite surprised at how many folks suggest a change of plans by not using one of the busses.
Other than a couple oddball measurements and pto adaptation issues, I’m not really seeing anything that screams stop.

You're there with it and we're not.
I think you should do what you want and build it your way :cool:
 
I’ve set a goal to do SOMETHING wit the project every day. Even if it’s just sitting and staring at something to get a game plan for it.
I fully expected to take a week to get the bus body teady to strip.
Sunday comes.
Saturday I removed two windows where I planned to cut the body.
I decided because the body is glued to the firewall as well as bolted, I’d cut the body further back so I can use a fork lift to lift it off. Then cut the fron portion apart in pieces so I don’t screw ip the firewall.

I used an oscillating tool to cut the glue and it goes right through, but it turns the glue into sticky tar,causing it to stick again.
Today, I cot the body cut apart. Pretty easy.
Then I decided to take a peek at the electrical. About 30 minutes later and I figured out how to split the body electrical from the chassis.
Then I drained the heater lines. The in and out both have valves on the engine side have valves to isolate so that’s nice.
I pulled the switch panel to keep because it has a ton of cool switches I like. Saved the two giant contactors for the electrical. Don’t know what I’ll use them for but they’re neat.
Removed the stop sign and “bluebird” metal plaque to hang on the Shop wall. Also removed the clearance lights to use on the ford.
Pulled down the luggage racks inside since they’ll prevent the body from being split into pieces.

Now........I don’t ave anything else to do all week :(

I might get a hold of the neighbor guy to get his lift over here. But my fear is if I get it here and waiting........I’ll be pulling this body off by myself after work one night. And I really should have some help wit this otherwise I’ll have to break into those first aid kits.

I’ll post video links in a bit.

And yes, I started and drove the bus after cutting the body and severing the electrical and coolant.
 
So heres the question.
I can make this chassis as long as I want now.
Currently the bed is 16’. For now I’ll be keeping the original flatbed on the truck.......but I have pipe dreams to make the truck a hook loader.
One where I can have a flatbed car hauler deck, small rolloff dumpster, cargo box ect. It’s just a pipe dream really. I’d LOVE to do this and maybe make it 2’ longer to accommodate the lift.
However, I like how the bed drops down to the ground now as I could build some ramps and load the rat rod onto it.
Additionally, I’d like to have a hitch on the truck so I can pull my 12’ box trailer if I choose. But with the axle so far forward, a hitch really isn’t an option.
If I scoot the axle back, I could do a hitch, but then the bed won’t drop as far down.
Converting to a hook loader, I’d probably need the axle further back.
I’m not sure which way to go here.
 

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