Mustang ll front end question.

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

maddog

Here he comes to save the day!
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
864
Location
SFV Southern California
I have the old mustang ll front suspension (with the strut rod) on my 46 Chevy truck.

Whoever put it on the frame did a good job on the fabrication part but the A-arms, spindles and calipers need help.

To look at the truck, the front tires are too far set in. They need to be pulled out about 1.5 inches each side to look right.

The A-arms are the stamped steel (stock) and I dont like the way the caliper mount is attached to the spindle. I want to replace it all for several reasons.

My question is can I build longer A-arms to push the wheels out a bit?
Do they have them in some catalog that are made in different legnths or is one size all that is offered?

I cant find my speedway catalog (my wife has been picking up behind me).

Thanks
 
Maddog, I'm no expert but I'll chime in with a little bit of info. Generally, that practice is frowned upon because the widened control arms change the pivot points of the spindle in relationship to the pivot points of the tie rods on the rack. Thus changing the geometry and causing bumpsteer. The widened units that I have used had stock dimension control arms placed farther apart on the chassis and used a widened rack and pinion steering unit.

That being said, I have used narrowed control arms before with no real adverse effect. I have not seen widened control arms before, but they could be made without too much trouble.
 
I have the old mustang ll front suspension (with the strut rod) on my 46 Chevy truck.

Whoever put it on the frame did a good job on the fabrication part but the A-arms, spindles and calipers need help.

To look at the truck, the front tires are too far set in. They need to be pulled out about 1.5 inches each side to look right.

The A-arms are the stamped steel (stock) and I dont like the way the caliper mount is attached to the spindle. I want to replace it all for several reasons.

My question is can I build longer A-arms to push the wheels out a bit?
Do they have them in some catalog that are made in different legnths or is one size all that is offered?

I cant find my speedway catalog (my wife has been picking up behind me).

Thanks

i know that the mustang II suspension is suppose to be the all purpose front end but imo it shouldnt be under that truck. it to narrow and to light duty .
 
Mii

To look at the truck, the front tires are too far set in. They need to be pulled out about 1.5 inches each side to look right.

The A-arms are the stamped steel (stock) and I dont like the way the caliper mount is attached to the spindle. I want to replace it all for several reasons.

My question is can I build longer A-arms to push the wheels out a bit?
Do they have them in some catalog that are made in different legnths or is one size all that is offered?

Dog,
Sounds like those are narrowed a-arms. I put those on my Nova because they said that would give me more room for bigger tires. All it did was recess the wheels which looks unnatural. You can buy a bigger offset wheel though. I also bought the standard tubular a-arms from Speedway for my '41 PU & they are much better & pretty cheap too... I also went with coil-over shocks! Is yours aligned properly?

Attached foto is a little distorted because I used a very wide angle lens.

I cant find my speedway catalog (my wife has been picking up behind me).

Hummm, that sure sounds familiar... now where is *my* Speedway catalog!?!

BoB
 

Attachments

  • arm.jpeg
    arm.jpeg
    40.4 KB · Views: 57
Last edited:
Looking at the picture that Tripper posted ( Thanks BTW) it seems to me that all 3 of the critical points move out together. The upper, lower balljoints and the tie rod.
I do see the problem of mounting the inner pivots further out with a stock rack, because that changes the relationship of the inner arm pivots to the pivot at the edge of the rack.
But I just dont understand why moving all the ball joints out with longer tie rods will create bump steer.

It seems to me that the spindle and all attached stuff just moves thru a slightly larger arch.

I'm not being stubborn here, something tells me your right and I'm missing something.

So what am I missing:confused:, besides my Speedway catalog:eek:?
 
Tripper, in re-reading your post, yes its aligned. Narrowed arms? That could be the problem. So they make them? If thats the case, I could use stock and move things out a bit.

Cool
Thanks
 
Tale of da tape!

It seems to me that the spindle and all attached stuff just moves thru a slightly larger arch.

I'm not being stubborn here, something tells me your right and I'm missing something.

So what am I missing:confused:, besides my Speedway catalog:eek:?

Dog,
Since I have both styles... I'll measure both & u can see which u have.

BoB
 
Mine is 8.5"
They look like stock parts, not tubes like yours in the picture.

Can I get a 2nd opinion on legnthing the arms?

If that is just not gonna work, I will have to increase the offset in my wheels.
 
I run this setup on my 40 Chevy Pickup

If I remember correctly the stock width of you front axle is 58 inches and the stock Mustang two is 56 inches. You really don't want to widen the a arms for this reason: The Mustang two front end lowers the front of your truck about 4 inches. Moving the spindles out further on each side is going to cause your wheels to rub the opening of the fenders when you turn into parking lots and even in some cornering situations. I am running a Fatman crossmember with stock upper and lower control arms and spindles. I am using Heidt's lower tubular strut rods instead of stock as this allows the stock lower a arm to move straight up and down like a tubular control arm. I am also running ECI disc brake brackets with early S-10 disc brake rotors and calipers. I have had this setup under my 40 since 1999 and it has performed flawlessly. I am running a 402 big block with m22 4speed and 12 bolt posi rear axle. This front end is stronger than a Camro or Monte Carlo subframe. If you don't believe it just look a the size of the balljoints and tie rod ends of all three and compare. The Mustanb two is the right choice. Good luck with your build.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top