Custom Mopar ????

Great progress Torchie! In my opinion, the wheel placement in the openings is very important for the right look. The lowering block discussion is exactly how I had to square the rear end in that 52 Chev I'm just finishing - I made my own blocks, and one of them had the hole/pin offset by 1/2" so that I could get that rear end squared up.

MercuryMac said:

I would like to underline what ZZ said, make your own blocks and offset them the way you want. Here's a picture of my store-bought 3" lowering blocks in an old Dodge. I couldn't find any blocks that were as narrow as the springs so I have to do a little massaging yet on them. So, know how wide your springs or the holes in your lower shock bracket are so the U-clamps don't have to lean. If you make your own blocks then you can make them narrow enough.
Keep on tinkering, Torchie.

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In the photo, isn't the spring perch on the rear end what's keeping the u-bolts out, not the lowering block? It looks like they're nowhere near the block.

Torchie said:

One if the nice things about using the S10 frame is the large availability of aftermarket parts,Mac.
I googled S 10 lowering kits and had something like 3 pages of items.
If I had used the original Dodge frame I would have done exactly as you did. Although I think Butch’s Viol stuff may have blocks for those old , narrow Mopar springs.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions, gang.
Torchie

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Yeah, all my S-10 chassis vehicles have blocks and spindles. There are lots of good shocks, sway bars, etc. available as well. I put big ZQ8 front and rear sway bars on my 46 and I've got them sitting on the shelf for my S10 as well, whenever I get it to the new place I'll get it on the lift and put them on.

Keep in mind that if you use drop front springs on an S-10, you need a drop shock to keep the shock from bottoming out.

05snopro440 said:

Yeah, all my S-10 chassis vehicles have blocks and spindles. There are lots of good shocks, sway bars, etc. available as well. I put big ZQ8 front and rear sway bars on my 46 and I've got them sitting on the shelf for my S10 as well, whenever I get it to the new place I'll get it on the lift and put them on.

Keep in mind that if you use drop front springs on an S-10, you need a drop shock to keep the shock from bottoming out.

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Thanks Bill and Snopro.
All the kits I'm looking at have the shorter shocks in them.
I'm not used to being able to use off the shelf parts so it's a new thing for me.
This morning before it got hot here..........
Car is off the chain falls and the wheel dollies.
I dig it.
As predicted once the car was on it's full weight the rear wheel is now behind dead center.
So that also gives me some wiggle room in regards to the front tire/fender position as I can move the body back rearward if needed.
Now.....
Ride height.
The pic of the white wall tire shows what tires I would like to run.
This one is 800x15.
From the ground up to the top edge of the wheel cover is 22-1/2"
From the ground to the upper lip of the rear fender opening is 23".
I want that lip to be at the top of the wheel cover or just slightly below it.
So I may not need more then a one or two inch lowering block????
For every question I answer. I come up with 3 more to take it's place.
I guess the real question is has it been worth all the effort to get to this point?
You all tell me.....
Keep on keeping on.
Torchie

yes.

You have an empty hull right now. Add a full interior, and a full gas tank and you might have that 1”. Just something of a reminder....

Yes Torchie, it's worth it, we actually don't care how hard you have to work, it's worth it to us.
Please keep the back end a little lower than the front.
Sno Pro, I put that rear-end in there a few years ago and my memories are coming back slowly. That is a 1964 Chrysler 8 3/4 rear-end with very similar measurements to the original but the perches were a wee bit narrower. I had to move the aligning hole in the perches to a wider spot. I do remember cursing the lowering block for being too wide also, though.

Bamamav said:

You have an empty hull right now. Add a full interior, and a full gas tank and you might have that 1”. Just something of a reminder....

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You are a mind reader Bama.
My brother and I were just talking about that very thing.
The big question is the fact that the 800x15 bias ply tires have a taller profile the the radials that are in there now.
All has yet to be revealed.....
Torchie

MercuryMac said:

Yes Torchie, it's worth it, we actually don't care how hard you have to work, it's worth it to us.
Please keep the back end a little lower than the front.
Sno Pro, I put that rear-end in there a few years ago and my memories are coming back slowly. That is a 1964 Chrysler 8 3/4 rear-end with very similar measurements to the original but the perches were a wee bit narrower. I had to move the aligning hole in the perches to a wider spot. I do remember cursing the lowering block for being too wide also, though.

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Lol. Ok Mac.
It does have a slight speed boat stance right now.
Maybe 3/4 of an inch higher at the front of the rocker panel.
I didn’t change out the 2x4 that I have under the firewall foot.
Plus.. once again. Once it was put down on its own weight the stance changed a bit
Torchie

Not having to use lowering blocks would be great. If possible.
Harry Bradley(Google him) built a custom car known as the La Jolla.
He Z'd the frame right behind the rear seat to get the rear end this low.
I suspect that he still had to cut into the trunk floor.
He did it that way as he wanted it to ride like a factory stocker.
Also. Notice the almost level ride. This was right in the heart of the "speed boat" stance era.
Torchie

Torchie's gonna make it work![cl

Looks like you're right in the ballpark for stance. I would suggest that you consider how much you need to channel to guide you on whether you need to lower the chassis before you mount the body. Personally, I'd put the bottom of the frame and the bottom of the rocker at the same level and see where that puts my stance. I don't like an overchanneled car though, so I'm just thinking if you can keep as much room as possible in it that will be better in the long run. Lowering parts for an S10 are cheap, especially compared to owning an uncomfortable car you hate to drive.

I would also suggest that you set the front wheel location first. There are many ways to adjust the rear, the front is a lot more tricky and it's more important to get it set into spot first, then you can adjust the wheelbase a number of ways to the rear.

05snopro440 said:

Looks like you're right in the ballpark for stance. I would suggest that you consider how much you need to channel to guide you on whether you need to lower the chassis before you mount the body. Personally, I'd put the bottom of the frame and the bottom of the rocker at the same level and see where that puts my stance. I don't like an overchanneled car though, so I'm just thinking if you can keep as much room as possible in it that will be better in the long run. Lowering parts for an S10 are cheap, especially compared to owning an uncomfortable car you hate to drive.

I would also suggest that you set the front wheel location first. There are many ways to adjust the rear, the front is a lot more tricky and it's more important to get it set into spot first, then you can adjust the wheelbase a number of ways to the rear.

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I agree with your comments on all points, snopro.
Nothing is set in cement at this point.
Right now in what would be the front seat area I have a 2-1/2" channel going on. From what would be right behind the front seat it starts to get deeper and in the trunk it's more like 4".
All things being equal. If the body to rear wheel height is good now using a 3" lowering block could allow me to lessen the channel depth. Same for dropped spindles in the front.
My goal for tomorrow is to get a front fender on to see the front wheel position. To do that I have to remove the S 10 core support. I'm just not up for it tonight.
Torchie.
p.s. Anybody heard anything from Dr Crankenstein lately. He seems to have gone radio silence?????

Torchie said:

I agree with your comments on all points, snopro.
Nothing is set in cement at this point.
Right now in what would be the front seat area I have a 2-1/2" channel going on. From what would be right behind the front seat it starts to get deeper and in the trunk it's more like 4".
All things being equal. If the body to rear wheel height is good now using a 3" lowering block could allow me to lessen the channel depth. Same for dropped spindles in the front.
My goal for tomorrow is to get a front fender on to see the front wheel position. To do that I have to remove the S 10 core support. I'm just not up for it tonight.
Torchie.
p.s. Anybody heard anything from Dr Crankenstein lately. He seems to have gone radio silence?????

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Especially if you lower the rear of the frame more than the front (drop spindles are 2" for S10, a 3" block still gives you good suspension travel), then you could gain a little more than your 3" at the rear rails. and reduce the effect of the channel getting so much deeper as it goes back.

Crank last posted 3 days ago and was online last night.

Indeed snopro.
Not going to get to the front fender today. I’m dragging a bit.��
Thanks for the Crank up date. I just haven’t seen him posting much.
Torchie

Torchie said:

Indeed snopro.
Not dutyi get to the front fender today. I’m dragging a bit.
Thanks fir the Crank up date. I just haven’t seen him posting much.
Torchie

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I noticed too. There's a lack of posts without Crank. We need you Crank.[cl

OK S-10 guru's (Snopro. or anybody else.)....
What's the skinny on Belltech lowering components?
They are popping up a lot during my google research.
I know that dropped spindles are the best but if I only needed a 2" drop in the front can I just get away with new, shorter springs, or cut the old ones as I've done for years.
Thanks in advance for the responses.
Torchie

Torchie said:

OK S-10 guru's (Snopro. or anybody else.)....
What's the skinny on Belltech lowering components?
They are popping up a lot during my google research.
I know that dropped spindles are the best but if I only needed a 2" drop in the front can I just get away with new, shorter springs, or cut the old ones as I've done for years.
Thanks in advance for the responses.
Torchie

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This won't help much, but... This happened early in my 39 project. One fateful evening in the rain, I bought a dirty set of dropped spindles off of CL. Actually, spindles springs, rotors, etc. Good price. When I got them cleaned up, they were stock and the springs were short. Seller told me he got them from his uncle and his uncle would never lie. So f*** off.

So, yes, it is done to S10s too. For an inch or two, it would/should work as well as it does on any car. Belltech has been around forever, and I have not heard anything bad.

I've done both and would rather use drop spindles.
Belltech are good products.

Thanks Skip and OI.
I’ve seen kits that were just the springs and shocks for the front, Skip.
Claims of a 2” drop came with them.
I’m in agreement with you on the spindles,OI.
All the cars that I have dropped have been vintage. And at that time drop spindles weren’t that readily available.
Plus they were all Armstrong steering with what passed for state of the Art front suspension for there times.
This S 10 being the newest chassis I’ve ever modified I’m thinking of the fact that it will have power assist steering and brakes, etc.
I don’t want to screw with the front end geometry too much.
And as I close in on getting the body channel set I have to bear in mind that the tires on there aren’t the ones I plan on using. So I have to allow for the higher profile of the tires I will run.
One bite at a time.....
Keep on keeping on.
Torchie

Torchie said:

OK S-10 guru's (Snopro. or anybody else.)....
What's the skinny on Belltech lowering components?
They are popping up a lot during my google research.
I know that dropped spindles are the best but if I only needed a 2" drop in the front can I just get away with new, shorter springs, or cut the old ones as I've done for years.
Thanks in advance for the responses.
Torchie

Click to expand...

Belltech is the most common name for S10 lowering parts, I exclusively use their stuff and it works well.

You can use shorter springs, but you lose that 2" of spring travel, plus then you need shorter shocks otherwise you'll bottom out your stockers. With the drop spindles, you keep the stock geometry of the steering, can keep stock springs (various spring rates are available if you need to put something stiffer or softer in), and you get the original travel of the suspension. I highly recommend using drop spindles. It's a lot better in the long run.

I have vehicles dropped 3-4" by cutting the stock springs, and vehicles with dropped spindles. Given the choice, go spindles no matter the drop height.