50 Dodge Pilot

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks guys

Here is another look at the cab & clip removal. Appreciate the fan suggestion Skip. Its a great idea, I just think stock fans look cool. I will figure this out Joe. I like a challenge too. Gonna start looking at radiators. Thanks Skull, for the confidence. Here is a straight on look at the slant 6 also. It has about a 9 inch off set to the center of the rocker cover. Minimal firewall work on the passenger side of the cab may get me those precious inches. More measuring needed.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 20180106_145554.jpg
    20180106_145554.jpg
    106 KB · Views: 103
  • 20180107_165638.jpg
    20180107_165638.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 18
heater

"Minimal firewall work on the passenger side of the cab may get me those precious inches. "


if you are planning on running a heater, when massaging the firewall on the passenger side will it interfere with that?.

Later:cool:
 
firewall and heater

attachment.php


The stock recessed center area for the flat head provides 4 inches. If I could gain this same 4 inch space just far enough over to the passenger side, this install works, and leaves room for the heater. [S
 

Attachments

  • 20180107_162957.jpg
    20180107_162957.jpg
    54.9 KB · Views: 104
cut out a square right down the center of the hump, move it over and weld in a nice flat piece of sheet! [cl
 
Firewall and cab mounting

I like your idea Joe. I will do it. Now on to cab mounting. The 2.8 will be off the chassis Saturday. I have started measuring as Skip suggested earlier with the front wheel centerline as the starting point.

I'm considering attaching the front clip to the cab, then making some kind of 3 point sling, then lower it onto the chassis for fitting. Sounds like a good challenge. May need another chain hoist. [S
 
I like your idea Joe. I will do it. Now on to cab mounting. The 2.8 will be off the chassis Saturday. I have started measuring as Skip suggested earlier with the front wheel centerline as the starting point.

I'm considering attaching the front clip to the cab, then making some kind of 3 point sling, then lower it onto the chassis for fitting. Sounds like a good challenge. May need another chain hoist. [S
This sounds like a good plan. With these "newer" trucks, the cab and front clip attach to each other solidly and hold their shape. Us kids playing with earlier stuff don't really have that option. At least I couldn't figure out how to do it.

With a 3-point you should be able to find a balance point that will allow you to just use one overhead lifting device. Maybe use one of those engine tilting tools.
 
Last edited:
Another lifting idea is a sling thru the windows of the cab lifted with a single chain fall and the balancing act tied together with a simple come along to the front clip.
 
gutters

when running the sling or whatever, thru the doors make sure not to crush the rain gutters above the doors.

l have made this mistake on my 1966 chevelle and really screwed them up:eek:

Later:cool:
 
box

since the chassis is exposed completely are you going to box the rails and put in bracing from side to side to help reduce chassis flex[S

Later:cool:
 
Appreciate the suggestions

Been thinking this lift idea over. A single lift point makes sense, my overhead structure is set up for it. Looks like a plan. Thanks Skip, Smallfoot. Here are a few chassis photos. Agree may need to beef things up. Frame is boxed half way back. I will look closely at those rain gutters. Thanks Skull.

attachment.php


attachment.phpiattachmentid=138264&stc=1&d=1515733532
 

Attachments

  • 20180107_164340.jpg
    20180107_164340.jpg
    92 KB · Views: 137
  • 20180106_162335.jpg
    20180106_162335.jpg
    103 KB · Views: 15
The stock recessed center area for the flat head provides 4 inches. If I could gain this same 4 inch space just far enough over to the passenger side, this install works, and leaves room for the heater. [S

This is going back nearly 10 years, and I needed the space on the other side to you, but this worked well and was easy.
 

Attachments

  • dodge28.jpg~original.jpg
    dodge28.jpg~original.jpg
    119.2 KB · Views: 38
Nice work

Looks good wendle. Here is a photo of the stock flathead in the 52 showing how tight things are. The head measures 23 inches. Do you still have the truck? Got a current photo? :rolleyes:

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 20150814_161900.jpg
    20150814_161900.jpg
    120.8 KB · Views: 108
Pulled the 2.8 V6 today

Removed the GM V6 today. Misplaced the engine stand bolts, but no problem, the S10 cab mounting bolts worked fine. Started working on attaching the front clip to the Pilot cab.

Figured I would hang on to the 2.8, it runs, just a noisy bottom end. I run one of these in my work truck.
 
Figured I would hang on to the 2.8, it runs, just a noisy bottom end. I run one of these in my work truck.

I had two S10's with the 2.8, one loved head gaskets, the other, number 3 rod bearings. Built the second one twice, new crank both times, couldn't get 25,000 miles out it. A buddy had a 2.8 in a S10 Blazer, put over 200,000 on it with no problems. Hit or miss on getting a good one. They suffer from oiling problems on the bottom end.
 
2.8

My 2.8 is at 190,000 miles now. Took it to machine shop at 155,000 when bottom end made faint noise. Crank cleaned up, one new rod, left with fresh long block. The machinist did caution me to keep fresh oil in it. Bummer about your 2.8 experience Bamamav. If mine goes, may switch to 4.3. I run a 4.3, gen 1, with throttle body in my full size truck.
 
Progress

Test fit the cab today. Back using the engine hoist. Got concerned about weight of cab and clip together supported from overhead beam. I figured the double strap loading would not distort the rain rail. [S
 

Attachments

  • 20180120_144824.jpg
    20180120_144824.jpg
    95.5 KB · Views: 22
  • 20180120_160024.jpg
    20180120_160024.jpg
    70.6 KB · Views: 22
more photos

Some rain rail distortion, no problem, appreciate the tip Skull. The double strap reduced it I'm sure. I decided time with the hoist better spent than beefing up the building. Did not want to risk a problem. Cab and clip together got heavy.

Started measuring for cab placement with front wheel center, the number is 24 inches to front edge of cab door. Appreciate your pointers also Skip.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 20180120_165652.jpg
    20180120_165652.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 14
  • 20180120_144847.jpg
    20180120_144847.jpg
    88.2 KB · Views: 15
  • 20180120_160501.jpg
    20180120_160501.jpg
    81.2 KB · Views: 15
welcome

when ya lift it up again, stick a 6X6 about 18-2O inches long between top of the cab and the rain rail, l put a couple of nails sticking up about an inch on each side of the strap to keep mine from sliding out when l lift my cab.

forgive my horrible photoshop:eek:

likin' the progress.[P

Later:cool:
 

Attachments

  • lifting the cab.jpg
    lifting the cab.jpg
    142.3 KB · Views: 20
cab on frame

Used wood blocks to test fit the cab. Next I will fit the clip, and start making mounts. I like the look.
 

Attachments

  • 20180120_165747.jpg
    20180120_165747.jpg
    73.5 KB · Views: 33
  • 20180120_165603.jpg
    20180120_165603.jpg
    71.5 KB · Views: 39
  • 20180120_170221.jpg
    20180120_170221.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 35

Latest posts

Back
Top