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  #71  
Old 05-05-2009, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonehead View Post
I was thinking about this, and thought about the shackle. Seems like you will need someplace for the length to go when the springs moves. You probably have it covered, but thought I had better mention it.
The forward "box" will be long enough to allow the spring to completely flatten out. It will also be braced up pretty good to handle the loads that may be put on it when the car corners hard.

I had to re-invent the wheel a little on this one. I should have studied the stock jag, just in case I wanted to use the whole suspension.

Oh well Live and learn.
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  #72  
Old 05-09-2009, 10:34 PM
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I got my other spring box put together and started looking at how to anchor the top links and came to the conclusion that I needed more beef in my framework. I am adding some 1.5 x 1.5 front to back in a more conventional frame like position. I am also installing a 1.5 x 1.5 crossmember ahead of the forward spring support to provide additional support.
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There are two things in life where penetration is really important .....and one of them is welding.

My 48 chevy flatbed http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604

The Roofus Special http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=roofus
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  #73  
Old 05-10-2009, 07:56 PM
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Here are the pics. This about where I thought I was going to get to last weekend.

I feel a lot more comfortable with the extra beef.







Since I am not sure exactly what spring rate I have, I built some adjustability in for the top links.

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There are two things in life where penetration is really important .....and one of them is welding.

My 48 chevy flatbed http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604

The Roofus Special http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=roofus

Last edited by Flipper_1938; 05-10-2009 at 09:01 PM.
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  #74  
Old 05-11-2009, 06:02 AM
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Next weekend, I will add a diagonal for the link mounts and mount the spring boxes (verticle wall at back, angled wall at front and tied to the frame sideways down low).



Hopefully after that, the pace will pick back up.
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There are two things in life where penetration is really important .....and one of them is welding.

My 48 chevy flatbed http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604

The Roofus Special http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=roofus
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  #75  
Old 05-22-2009, 11:15 PM
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I jumped in with both feet today. I started wleding the spring boxes in solid. First though, I tapered the front edge of the boxes down for a little more butt room.

Mounting these things is like putting a puzzle together. It is hard trying to figure out how to weld it all together such that you can actually get to where you need to weld. ...and then get the next piece welded in.

I got them welded in enough that I was able to put a jack under the rear axle and cycle the suspension. My spring boxes work as intended....as the rear goes up, the front of the spring pushes down.

I will try to remember to take pics tomorrow and post them.
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There are two things in life where penetration is really important .....and one of them is welding.

My 48 chevy flatbed http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604

The Roofus Special http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=roofus
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  #76  
Old 05-24-2009, 03:22 AM
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Here are the pics of the boxes getting welded in.





The link mount needs support. I will also tie the boxes in to these.



Stuff is too crowded to get to all seams. I cut the tube apart. Some of the welds are on the inside. After these welds are done, the tube gets put back together. Fun!

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There are two things in life where penetration is really important .....and one of them is welding.

My 48 chevy flatbed http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604

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  #77  
Old 05-24-2009, 03:23 AM
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Tubes put back together


Boxes tied to the diagonal


Pics of loading the suspension


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There are two things in life where penetration is really important .....and one of them is welding.

My 48 chevy flatbed http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604

The Roofus Special http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=roofus
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  #78  
Old 05-24-2009, 03:26 AM
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Dug back into the unbelievebly lucky to have parts stash and found a gas tank.

1952 Mercedes gas tank looks like it will work for this car.






It should clear the links OK and has a little bit of clearance for the diff. Fuel inlet will work with a racecar style cap on the top of the boattail.
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There are two things in life where penetration is really important .....and one of them is welding.

My 48 chevy flatbed http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604

The Roofus Special http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=roofus
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  #79  
Old 05-24-2009, 03:27 AM
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This is where I ended the day. I plated in the opening above the boxes. I feels really solid.



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There are two things in life where penetration is really important .....and one of them is welding.

My 48 chevy flatbed http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604

The Roofus Special http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=roofus
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  #80  
Old 05-24-2009, 04:35 AM
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With any luck, I will re-hang the rear quarters and decide on what the next build step.

Not sure exactly what to do next.

I think I need to start the rearmost frame section/trunk floor. I think I need to start the upwards taper of the boattail at the rear axle...similar to this car.

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There are two things in life where penetration is really important .....and one of them is welding.

My 48 chevy flatbed http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604

The Roofus Special http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=roofus
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