64 Ford F100 Lowering

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Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
20
Location
North Georgia
Looking for thoughts on economically lowering a 64 Ford F100 SWB and not with major frame modifications? Would like to hear what the experiences have been and if there are any good threads here to look at for ideas? Thanks.
 
Last edited:
How economical do you want to be [S
In the front a dropped axle is the better way, you can cut a coil or two off the spring but the ride will be a bit more harsh and on the rear put the axle on top of the spring, that usually gets about 6", if you want more you'll need blocks and longer U-bolts.
For what it's worth [S
 
Soltz

Thank you.. that was what I had researched and thought would give me the look I want for a reasonable price. I know it is not the same as a complete frame swap/built or a front-end exchange but it is where I want to be for this specific truck. I am not keeping it for long and not trying to do a complete redo and I have some other projects that I am doing much more in-depth.

Thanks! I will document how it turns out as I do this and some other things to make it a good looking ride.
 
Is the 64 a twin I beam or straight axle? I can't remember. Twin I beam, about all you can do is cut the coils or buy lowering beams. If it's a straight axle, de-arched or different leaf springs will bring it down.
 
Strait axle Bama the first year of twin was in 65 I got one of those. I think the drop axle for a 64 will kind of be scarce wouldnt you think ? maybe just put some blocks on it and see what it looks like ,,,, oh wait the axle is under the springs on it ( right?)
 
I knew the twin I beam started somewhere around that time frame.
Might get a tube axle from Speedway that would give you a drop. Not cheap, but effective.
 
Just put the front axle on top of the leafs. They are either cast or forged steel - either way, no problem welding mounts on the bottom side of the axle so it sits properly on the spring, new U-bolts and it's on. You may need to C notch the frame for clearance plus re-mount the shocks or use shorter ones. Also you may need to heat and bend the steering arms so the tie rod doesn't hit the leaf springs. Depending on the geometry of the drag link from the steering box, you may need do some mods there too - might be necessary to raise the steering box so the drag link stays level or you may get some bump steer.
 
You WILL run into clearance issues if you attempt to flip the axle on these trucks! You will also sacrifice ride quality. The OP was looking for a simple solution with the least hassle. I highly suggest a dropped axle from Sid's. Top quality work! It will also be a direct bolt-on with no further modifications, and there is no bottoming out, etc. I have used Sid for several dropped axles and have always been impressed with his service and finished product. Very helpful along the way as well. Here's a link to exactly what you need - http://droppedaxles.com/FORD_AXLES.html#TXTOBJ7D81431413639D1
 
Blue Eyed Devil

Thank you. I have found that last night on the web as well. I think that is what I am going to install. Thank you for the confirmation and time to post. I will let you know how it goes as I am in the process. [;)
 
Blue Eyed Devil

Talked to Sid at great length today. He is making me a 3" Drop Front Axle now and helped me understand all the other pieces to the puzzle. Good thing is that he drives a 64 Ford F100 Fleetside as his daily driver and it is lowered with the same pieces. A good tip - Thank You!!!
 
Good to hear. Reputation is important and I don't just blindly recommend folks, so I am glad it is all coming together. As I said before Sid is very helpful and his work is top notch. I don't think you will be disappointed. Let us see some pics when you get going!
 
Came to the party late, but B.E.D. nailed it. Drop is the only way to go without a subframe swap. I'd suggest a disc kit too - huge difference, even without a booster.
 

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