1955 chevy

Just a few pics of my recent purchase. Any ideas about the patina (rust) and how to smooth it up for clear coat? I read about simply using linseed oil instead of clearing.... Ideas welcome!

The patina on your truck looks awesome!

I've had to learn a lot about patina myself, and I'll try to communicate it as best I can.

-The first thing to do is clean your truck using a mixture of CLR and Water, and a scotch brite pad (green). I used the knock-off ones with a sponge on the backside, they work well. It will take off the oxidation and any surface rust that is on top of the paint. You'll be surprised at the color of your truck after and what is actually present.
-Linseed oil remains glossy and sticky. The vehicles I've seen with linseed oil applied get dust stuck to them, and it just doesn't look right.
-I won't clear coat over the patina on my truck. If the clear doesn't adhere well, which is very possible, then you ruin the patina. Any I've seen with clear have a textured finish, kind of like orange peel, which I don't like.
-My truck has much less paint than yours, and what's important to realize is that the rust is not actually active. So there's not a lot of need to clear over it in my opinion.
-I might try the Eastwood Patina Preserver, just to slow the oxidation of the paint so I don't have to CLR as often.

I hope that helps.

Don't clear it.

Rust is always active. It never sleeps...

Do the clean up and hose it down with cheap penetrating oil, then wipe it off. You have to re-do it fairly often but it leaves a nice look. I do it to most of my junk sculptures and have a lot of people ask how I get that look.

Welcome to RRR.

I've never liked clear over patina... whether it be "flat" or "satin" clear, the results are still too glossy and (in my eye) looks like a greasy slab of canned pork...



I think of it this way... it took 60 years of "neglect" to look like it does today. The next 10 years (with some of the care already mentioned) should serve you better than a clear, which would have to be stripped when it fails (and it will) along with your patina.

My opinion only and welcome again!

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Thanks all for the advice! Linseed oil sounded like a bad idea to me.. I'll start cleaning and rubbing and see how it looks.

I agree with the Dr. I think clear over patina looks bad, always looks too shiny.

Really kind of hate to put a picture of my '50 International 5.9 Cummins up after the canned ham picture, but if I can get a picture posted here it is. I think to polish or leave as is depends on the finish you have. My truck had mostly faded heavy oxidized paint so I elected to polish. Had it been mostly surface rust I would have left as is. No clear coat, heavy duty rubbing compound and wax. Man it kind of does look like canned hamb lmao

Here is another, could not get 2 in the last post. This is what I started with. I think it really depends on how much oxidation the paint has.

Try Flood Penetrol. I use it to preserve the patina, works good. I brush on a new coat every year. Easy to use, just brush it on, no need to tape off anything. Doesn't leave any brush marks either. Get it at Lowe's.

Good looking truck.

Thanks Lowbuckrats... I just looked at the Flood Penetrol info online.. Not sure if the cheep penetrating oil that Willowbilly mentioned would be the same or have the same result?

Thanks Cycledog.. She's a real "barn find"... 17K miles... I think I'm going to keep it as original as I can. Disc brakes, lowering springs, 235 six with a couple carters..

Maine Boy said:

Thanks Cycledog.. She's a real "barn find"... 17K miles... I think I'm going to keep it as original as I can. Disc brakes, lowering springs, 235 six with a couple carters..

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If you go the dual carb route check out http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/ for their carbs, Carter-Weber progressive 2bbls.

They don't have that old timey look but drivability is 1000% better than the stock carters. I have used them on a couple of six's and couldn't have been happier. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

cycledog said:

If you go the dual carb route check out http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/ for their carbs, Carter-Weber progressive 2bbls.

They don't have that old timey look but drivability is 1000% better than the stock carters. I have used them on a couple of six's and couldn't have been happier. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

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I like "new not rebuilt" when I looked at the carter's at Langdon's. Price is right too...

Thanks again..