1931 Chevy 4door into pickup.

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well, didn't get anything done on the frame this morning. Instead i helped a coworker out by installing a fuel pump in an chevy 3500. I now remember why i left the modern auto industry. I can tell that it's gonna be a scorcher this afternoon. So it looks like no grinding on the frame today. Instead I'll go take a shower and go to bed. I'll attempt to get the frame finished tomorrow but knowing me, I'll notice something else that can be done to improve the look and it'll be another 2 weeks until that's finished.
 
I keep switching things up also, that really eats up time and money but it has to be done the way you want it
 
No pictures of progress yet but I finished grinding down the frame. Had to get a new angle grinder as the one I had finally called it quits. I'm still trying to get used to the button location. Ya know that thing they call "muscle memory", yeah it exists. Also decided I should cap the front of the original frame just to keep all the dirt and other crap out, only got one side done there today, it's getting way too hot to be welding and grinding. So I'll finish that up tomorrow, or later this evening after it cools down, and then I'll start running my airlines again and then brake stuff. I got really long(36"!!!) stainless braided lines so I'll be able to put my through frame bolts wherever I want and maybe get away with using less hard line than I originally anticipated.
 
Started running my brake lines today and got almost the entire rear section done. Need to get some more 1/4" hose clamps with the rubber isolators and some 1"(for the airlines that I taped together.) I think I should have ordered shorter flex lines for the rear though. 36" is a tad too long and I'll have to secure them to the frame rail for now but I may order shorter ones in the future with a 90 degree fitting instead of the straight. So tomorrow I'll finish off securing my brake and air lines under the cab and move to the left front. Once the brakes are all done ill drop the engine back in her, roll her to the other side of the garage and drop the body back on. Then I can start measuring the underside for a fuel tank. I know a few pages back I had cut and welded a steel drum but I don't think I'll use that anymore. Pictures to come when the brakes are finished.

If you guys are on the fence over the Eastwood flaring tool, get it!!! Don't hesitate due to the high price, I would agree it is expensive but so is buying 5 or 6 flaring kits for one die that you use over and over again.
 
Didn't get everything I planned on getting done yesterday done. In fact, I only got like 1/3 done before my ptsd kicked in and I couldn't think straight. Got all my lines clamped onto the frame rails and called her a day. Today I finished off my air line routing to the front bags. I would have started on running hard brake lines from the thru-frame fittings to where the cowl sits but I counted my 3/16 fittings and as it turns out, I don't have any left and I really hate using old fittings on new installs and seeing as the local places don't sell just the fittings, I'll be putting in an order for those. Also, installed my 1/8npt to 3/8x24 ifm adapters and buggered one up so I'll have to order another one of those along with shorter AN lines. I could probably have the ones I have cut down and new fittings installed but at 10-15 bucks a piece, it just isn't worth it to me. Anyhow, so I have another small list of stuff to order but that's just how these sort of builds go. Even when you do "plan" things out. So in the meantime of needing to order parts, a buddy is helping me clean up beside the shop on Friday so I'll con him into helping me move the frame to under the body again so I can plan out my lines to the master cylinder. Here's a few pics of the line clamp install. I should have put everything a little closer together so I could use the same mounting points but, live and learn. For the front, where it's all visible, I will be making them all mount at the same location just to give it a little cleaner appearance. Here's a few pictures guys.







As you can see, these lines are about 10" too long.




 
I think I'd put a 90* at the frame, and run that line close or on the frame, then out to the brake drum. Just something to think about....:D
 
I think I'd put a 90* at the frame, and run that line close or on the frame, then out to the brake drum. Just something to think about....:D

Or short flex line at the pivot to a hard line down the arm, back to another short flex to the wheel....[P
 
I think I'd put a 90* at the frame, and run that line close or on the frame, then out to the brake drum. Just something to think about....:D

I'm gonna order some new lines. I only need a 24" line with a 90 so that's what I'm gonna do. I'll keep the 36" lines around for future builds so I can measure it more easily than how I did this one.
 
Well, today I went up to napa and picked up a few fittings I needed and got the left front brake line ran and clamped into place. There's a few spots I think could have turned out a little better but seeing as it was a lot of off, on, off, on, etc etc it still turned out halfway decent. I started out by running it as just the bare frame then, because I caught my second wind, I stayed up later, moved the frame over, set the body on it, got her bolted down, and ran it the rest of the way to the master cylinder. Tomorrow I'll run the right front section and if I feel ambitious, I'll run the line from the master to the "T" that the brake light switch is installed on. I like running the pressure type switches just for the fact they either work or they don't and you can get them almost anywhere if it does fail. But that's it for today I need some sleep.



This was the part that was a real pain. I didn't want to have to use a million clips to make the curve so I "stepped it" down and then back up. There's a little bit of fugliness to her in one spot but it will be covered by the engine so no big deal. My biggest concern is rubbing but with the clips in place, it would budge even the slightest.



Here's where it goes up to the master. I wanted to hide the lines behind the brake booster as much as possible to give me room for the exhaust and water pipes so this was my solution.



With as much hard line as I've used, I'm glad I ordered 50' when I did.
 
So I realized that all I needed was 2 IFM fittings, 3 bubble flare(ISO) fittings, and the 1 1/8-IFM 90 degree adapter so I made a trip to the local Napa yesterday, picked those up there, instead of ordering them, and today got the hard lines all finished up. Seeing as I had the engine out, I decided to remove the leaking oil cooler, did a bit of research to figure out what the fittings are(turns out they're M14x1.5) found out I couldn't get AN adapters in that size and pitch so out came the 1/2" NPT tap and I tapped the outlets so all I need are some 1/2NPT to -10 AN fittings. Of course, we have a bunch of JIC fittings left over from old locomotive modifications at work so I may see if I can snag a couple there. Either way, I'll be able to run a more readily available system for the oil cooler now. Tomorrow I'll see if I can't stab the engine back in her with the cab on but until then here's a few pictures of the brake system.





I was worried about the brake switch adapter rattling around so I made a nice little bracket to hold it and the brake line in place.


And here's the ports I tapped to accept the 1/2NPT fittings.
 
Thanks Dozer. It's almost time for all the really expensive stuff. I.E. AN fittings, stainless hose, wiring, an oil cooler, radiator, injectors, and a few odds and ends here and there. Still need to rebuild the front axle(king pins) and differential too. Anyhow, engine and transmission are back at home in the frame under the cab. Boy did it take some work stuffing her in there with the cab installed. Realized that I made a small miscalculation with the motor mounts, tey say too high and didn't allow the engine to lay back enough to get the trans mount to bolt in place. So I pulled the adapter pieces off, pulled the engine out, cut some holes in the pads to allow the bolts to sit in and sandwiched the pad between a couple of knockouts from all the holes I had to drill in the frame. Should be stout enough to handle this little 4 banger. Also realized that I won't be able to use the factory intake and exhaust manifolds so I cut out a flange to turn into the intake and exhaust. I be got an idea for that that wound just be different but it'll be cool too. Good thing this engine is a diesel and not carbureted. Anyhow, here's a few pics.

Here she is back in the frame.


Here's the mounts. As you can see, no more "adapters."


And here you can kinda see how close the engine sits to the brake booster and master cylinder. Needless to say, she's a tight fit.


And here is the flange I made for the intake and exhaust. I used the gasket to mark out what needed to be cut and I still have to clean up the ports but it'll work, I think.


And here you can see how much of the ports I need to clean up. I'll take it to work and use a die grinder with a deburring wheel to clean up the ports. I have got to get an air compressor sometime this next year or so.


So yeah, that's it for the time being. I've got some other stuff to take care of tomorrow so I may not have any updates for a few days.
 
What I had to do today didn't take as Lon as I expected but I've gotta go back next Wednesday(good ole V.A.) So when I got home, I was able to clean up the ports with an electric die grinder. Once they were cleaned up I found some pipe in the scrap heap that would fit inside the ports. I got them cut to size, for now, and welded onto the flange. Yes, I made sure they were in the correct ports. Once that was done, I decided to start on my intake bits. I've got some old dellorto carb filter hats I'll use as templates for the base and use the caps. With this being a Diesel engine I'm not too worried about the runners being short, as it already makes plenty of torque. Tomorrow I'll make the other intake port/runner and fab up the bases. It's a bit different but this entire builds
Been that way.

















For now the exhaust is just zoomies but I may turn em into lake steers down the road. Only thing I'm really worried about is the #1 firing against the right front tire.
 
Got my header/intake finished up today, well sort of. Didn't have my camera on me so I wasn't able to take any pictures. All that's left to do is drill and tap a hole to accept a barbed fitting for the crankcase breather. I may even go with an AN/JIC fitting depending on what I can find local. Anyhow, here's a picture of the intake "boxes" done and the air cleaner tops that I'll be using. Took these yesterday before I put the base plates on. I'll take some more tomorrow, I promise.



 
Do your research kids.

I should have done my research first. Turns out what I thought was part of my crankcase ventilation system turned out to be an oil drain for the intake. As it appears, what I thought was a 49 state engine turned out to be a California emissions engine. Somewhere along the lines someone had taken out the original engine and swapped this one in. The only thing, they swapped over all the 49 state stuff. Well, the 49 state intake isn't compatible with the CA one so the oil drain was left vented to atmosphere which would explain all the oil on only one side of the engine. Anyhow, I found this out after I had tapped the hole to accept a 3/8 pipe thread fitting which is no big deal because now all I need to do is plug it off with a plug so win win for me. Anyhow, after tapping that out along with one of the intakes, I tapped out the port on the valve cover to accept te 3/8 fitting and ran my breather that way. It's not the prettiest thing in the world but I have seen a lot worse and, it should work well. As for the drain plug, I'll have to get a plug tomorrow as today, I'm starting to feel a bit sleepy. So y'all have a great day, I'm going to bed.



Had to shave off a bit of the oil pan to get the 90* 3/8 fitting to go in. Shame to learn that I didn't need to do it after all.


Here's how the line was originally gonna run.


And as promised, the filter bases. I'll have to order them...eventually. Important stuff first. Like fuzzy dice.


And here's how the breather is actually being ran. A bit large on the hose and fitting size but I got em outta the spare fitting bin at work.
 
So, didn't do anything to her yesterday so I had to make up for it today. Got my oil pan plugged off but it appears I tapped it at an angle. Looks like the plugs holding back the oil so that's what counts. Noticed a few of my clamps for the air lines were a bit too snug so I replaced em with one size larger each. Put the gasket on the exhaust/intake and got her torqued on. Missing one nut but ill get that taken care of tomorrow, didnt wanna run to the hardware store on a sunday if i didnt have to. Once I had all that in the bag I decided that I should probably hook up the master cylinder and the clutch in preparation for getting the rest of the brake stuff this week so I can finally bleed the system and see if I need wheel cylinders or not. Unfortunately, I snapped the slave cylinder mounting area so looks like I'll need a new slave cylinder. I found out one thing with the Eastwood flaring tool, don't try to use it on old lines. The tool doesn't seam to have any grip on old lines so it's a good thing I kept all my old flaring kits. Other than all that, I am now done for the day. Maybe some day this week I'll get around to putting my fuel tank in place. Or at least see if the half drum will work or not.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top