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  #11  
Old 01-18-2011, 01:23 PM
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if you don't have copper handy,a chunk of aluminum works very well too..I really like the long vise grip idea..thanks!!
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  #12  
Old 01-18-2011, 01:42 PM
Rust in peace Rust in peace is offline
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I like to use a piece of filler metal for places that are hard to access from behind. It requires less heat than trying to weld the entire hole shut.

I use a nail with the head just smaller than the hole. Weld around the edge then cut off the shank.

If the hole is too big for a nail head I tack a nail head inside a washer hole. Then weld the washer in the hole and cut off the shank.

I like to use the copper backer for floor pans.

Don
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  #13  
Old 01-19-2011, 12:41 AM
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Cool idea with the vise-grips and washers! Thanks
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  #14  
Old 01-19-2011, 08:21 PM
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Great idea will use this one.
THANKS
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  #15  
Old 01-20-2011, 03:48 AM
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I used the nail and washer idea on welding up tubing and pipe ends! bonus is you can hold the shank to tack it in!
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  #16  
Old 01-23-2011, 04:11 PM
tkkruzer tkkruzer is offline
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Default welding trim holes

i use roofing nails on mine. the head is much larger than most trim holes so you just poke it thru from the back , hold it with plyers and tack it in place then cut off the shank. if the hold is bigger then just use 2 nails. less heat =less warpage
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2011, 07:16 PM
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Only problem with roofing nails is they are galvanized, That's real mean sh++ on your lungs when heated with the heat of welding.
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