Chrome plate removal

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If it's old chrome, you can use a coarse metal wire wheel on a high speed drill - depending on what it is that's chromed, I wouldn't suggest doing this on aluminum. You could sandblast it, sand it or have a chrome shop strip it.
 
If it's old chrome, you can use a coarse metal wire wheel on a high speed drill - depending on what it is that's chromed, I wouldn't suggest doing this on aluminum. You could sandblast it, sand it or have a chrome shop strip it.

I'm not an expert but I've heard from a few people that if you sandblast chrome, you cannot rechrome it as the silica gets deposited in the steel and it becomes too rough to polish out smooth
 
i allways just sanded it to copper with a D.A sander start at 80. grit and step sand it up to were you want to prime from .i did my bumpers this way over 20 years ago still holding. if you need to bust flakey chrome off you could sand blast it but you need a big blaster if it a big part and all chrome would have to be strip off .were sanding it will strip the stuff that is loose . i used a 8inch soft pad with 80 grit on a sander to but only work good if you want to move steel so you have to watch it and if you go D.A or 8inch you want to run the sand paper slow the grit last longer on paper all chrome needs to be sanding for a tooth for primer/paint to hang on. as for blasting i think as long as the part was sanded well and all grit was out of the part it would take chrome maybe more dips in the copper tank and prep work. trick with painting.welding .sanding /grinding. sandblasting . buffing .never stay in one spot to long bad thinings can happen.i seen stuff get eradicated by getting over work from sanding .grinding. sand blasting. and welding[;)
 
A highly concentrated muriatic acid soulution will remove chrome,but not the nickel which is the shine you actually see. The high strength stuff is really nasty !!! I used to be an outside salesman for a bumper recycling company. The strip tank was outside about 100yds from the main building. When they would renew the solution,if the air was kind of thick and the humidity was high,you could smell that stuff that far away !!!! The only time they used the acid is when they had a bumper go through the plating line and it had a defect in the chome.They would polish the bumper after it was chrome stripped and send it back through the process. Sandblasting will due the same thing,but it was more costly for them to do it that way. There used to be some really good etching primers out there,that would stick to chrome and not come off,however I believe our gov't has eliminated that solution !!!!
 
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you do not even have to sand blast it just need a tooth on it for the dp to stick to.. D.A with 180 if chrome is good 220 would do .i painted the sanded chrome and nickel bumpers on both my cars and grill on the 50 it s been on there for over 20 years nothing is coming off
 

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180? wow ive just used 80g on a DA
you could use 180 all you have to put a tooth on the bumper . on bare steel i d.a it with 120/180 if clean steel .like i said in this first post that i step sand them then used etching primer .80 grit will strip chrome thats ok but if is in very good shape you just have to make it dull with a tooth . chrome on bumpers and trim is not like industrial hard chrome . brite chrome it can be sanded with fine paper you just have to run the sander at a very low speed as the paper grit gets broke down very fast. if you run to many rpms then your just rubbing it with dull paper with the etching primers there is a mechanical bond then theres a chemical bond older primers work on mechanical bond only... that was by sanding . i still sand stuff as i seen stuff fall off .all i am saying as i did paint work for many years i knew what i could make work . i seen stuff were guys got nuts on grinding /coarse paper and just took more time to get it back to paint:D
 

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