1963 belair "family tradition"

I think the work you are doing is pretty nice man...

Patches look just fine to me and the exhaust is cool.....[cl

got some more done!

Heres a few shots of some more of my frankenstein patches! All my patches are stainless and its WAY harder to shape! But the price was right FREE! Gonna try to work on the header today so more pics to follow....

finally got the header done!

I finally got my header welded up. I also got my intake heat plate done. I still gotta get my carb and linkage back on but the header turned out great! I cant wait to hear what it sounds like! Im thinkin bout using propane for flame thrower! If anybody is using propane i would like to know the best way to set it up. Well heres some pics of my progress so far.

Well ive got quite a bit done since the last post! I got the rear quarter and door jam done, got the header running out of the fender, and got one of the front bag mounts and ball joints. Still got a lot to do but shes running really good and the header sounds great! I even got my striping brushes out and played on the front fender! Turned out pretty decent for being lil out of practice! Heres a few pics of the progress. Until next time....."leave it rusty"!!!

Sorry! A couple pics loaded upside down for some reason! Guess you gotta stand on your head to see em![

Heres a few more....

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Looks good

I would like to strip that good. Just asking but why not a round hole for the exhaust [S
It's coming along nicely [cl

The square hole just gave me more room for fabrication. All the body patches are made from stainless steel and i havent got it patched yet. Im gonna do a bolt on flange around the pipe so i can remove it easier if i have to.

OmWell ive got a little bit more done on "frankenstein!" i finally got my shock mounts in and they work really good. I just used some thick wall 2x3 tubing i had and split it and welded a cap on top to bolt the shock to. The travel is really smooth an no binding up. I switched to 2600lb bags in the front. I moved the mounts in a little so i didnt have to cut the frame. I still have about 3/4-1" of clearance around the bag through the whole range of compression. I used paddle valves so i could cut down on wiring. Its a little slow but thats not an issue for me. When its at full drop i am still about 4" or so from the frame to the floor. It sits on the stock bump stops so i can get home if theres a problem with the system. I started on the floor pans today and they were worse than i thought! I got the seat and carpet out and now i got some serious holes to fix! I scrounged a bunch more stainless sheet metal from work and im gonna start patching. After i get the floor done im gonna finish my exhaust an get my rear bags on. The rears will be way easier than the front! Im runnin a 5gal tank with 1 viair 480 pump. Ive got the fronts with individual controls and im just gonna use one valve for both on the back. Heres of a few pics of the progress. Gettin closer to road worthy everyday! Till next time.........RUST RULES!!!

Lookin' good. The floor doesn't look as bad as some of the cars we take on around here. I suspect you will have it patched without much trouble.

Heres some pics of my floor pan patch job! It was about 10 differnt pieces to keep all the angles right. Stainless dosent form to good but it was free and it is really solid now. Im thinkin bout using spray under coating to seal it up. Has anyone used the spray stuff on the floor pan? Any ideas to seal it up would be appreciated!

I used some of the spray on rubberized undercoat from WalMart on my gas tank, can't remember the brand name. It covered pretty good, one can did the tank top and bottom.

get some automotive seam sealer. It comes in a caulking tube. use that on all of your floor seams and then undercoat over it. I like undercoat that is paintable because it dries harder. Some of them stay soft and scrape off easy if you brush against it tools or anything.

little carb help!

Hey guys i need a little help. I got this carb for free from a buddy. It was rebuilt bout 15years ago an it supposedly came off a 68 tbird. I am not sure what size it is. I was thinkin about builing an intake adapter an putting it on my 230. I would like to know if this would work on my car? I dont know what size it is but it has vacuum secondarys. I have a 1 barrel carter yf on it now. If it will work i can open up the stock intake hole an make an aluminum adapter plate(i work in a machine shop and i have access to the leftover billet aluminum in the scrap bin!). Any suggestions and info is appreciated greatly!! Thanks rust lovers!

Well i finally got the rest of the floor pans patched. With a couple reinforcements the cut out sides of an old wash machine make pretty good patches!! An it was free metal! I also got the pass side front bag done too. I still need to put on the new ball joints an do the shock mounts but then the front is done! The back bags should be pretty easy so thats the next project. My buddy gave me some aluminum drag racing seats that were in his 57 and i think their gonna replace the factory bench. I also kicked around the idea of a single roll bar like the old gassers! Im not gonna race so i dont need it but i think it will look cool with the old school drag seats! Until next time heres a couple pics of the floor patches. Amazing what can be done for free!

Heres couple more pics of it finished.

have you been cutting out the bad metal? Sort of looks like all the patches are just laid over the rust.

looking good Patch work is always fun stuff[P

jott said:

have you been cutting out the bad metal? Sort of looks like all the patches are just laid over the rust.

Click to expand...

Yes i cut all the bad metal out underneath. I did overlap some good metal in spots just to make the patches a little stronger but all the bad cancer metal is gone.