Scratch Building a Coupe

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I forgot I boxed in my motor mount on each end you cant see it. Left side only Ill do the other when I get over there
 
Today I went after the front fender on the left side. or the drivers side. Actually this was pretty simple so far The 1/2 pipe framing is really rigid a lot more solid than I would have thought I have the framing all done in pipe and cut out a 4 foot piece to see what it would look like with sheet steel on the frame. I think its going to look okay I have to trim it some and flare the edges but I will be able to live with this. The fender grid work is only held by a 1/4 inch bolt in the front and a clamp in the rear so far and I can shake the whole car by grabbing the fender and shaking it. Its really rigid with this frame. The pipes look like 1/8 inch walls It bent pretty hard and it was tough to get the bends perfectly curved. However the sheet metal fits the circumference tight with no dips. So I plan on welding it from beneath and only where it touches the frame work. This 18 gauge steel is tough it does not need framing every where underneath. I am pretty pleased with the results I just have to settle on what curves I want in the front lip of the fender. The fender edges will be about 25 degree bend towards the ground. that's my plan. I have some photos.
 

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one more photo I got kicked off line sorry
 

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Today I went right back at the drivers front fender to get more done. I had to disassemble the fender to weld the bottoms of the pipe frame seams etc. Once that was done I added another 1/4 inch bolt to the front pipe on the frame rail. Then I drilled and tapped 2 holes in the rear of the fender through the 1.5X3.5 inch running board brace to hold the rear of the fender. This is absolutely rigid. I then focused on tacking the 18 gauge sheet metal to the pipe frame. I only welded underneath and only where the steel touches the frame piping. As you remember I couldn’t bend a perfect circumference on the pipes for the fender top curves. So some air spaces are there but not many. The sheet steel is rigid also. I trimmed the outer edge of the fender and added a lip of inch to cover the pipe up. I was also able to decide on my curves on the bottom front where the fender meets the radiator. I settled on the look you see in the photos, I made templates so I can fabricate the same piece for the other side, when I get over there. I think it will look okay. But This is a new car and engineered on the fly so the looks are mostly the end result of a design I made some where on the car. It is sort of odd looking but its home built on the cheap side.. I'm running short on sheet steel so I may jump to the other side so I can duplicate what I have here on the drivers side. I have just enough material to equal this side.. Okay blab, blab I have some photos..
 

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I think what Sam means is a pic taken from the front corner that shows the front end and down the side. It looks sort of like the crown of the fender is too far forward, making the tire look off center to the rear.
While you're at it, have you rolled it outside for a good look at where you are going and some pics of the whole car??
I've build a half dozen scratch built bodies and have found it really helps to get it out into the light of day for a real perspective on how it looks. Sometimes what looks OK close up is not so great at a distance.
I'm no expert and this is only my own opinion, so please don't take offense..
 
Advice well taken but i'll have to live with what I have cash is the concern here. I can only do things once, but I can butter up the smaller things as I go. eheh
 
ZZ got it. Go to the front corner, stand back as far as you can, and take a picture. It's hard to get a good idea of what is going on with just detail shots.
 

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