Front 4 link question

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Az33

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2013
Messages
53
Location
Tempe AZ
So I’m trying to finish up the rolling chassis on my 33 Chevy. I have the rear 4 link and bags set up and want to stay similar in the front.

I was thinking of using these type (attached pic) of brackets in 3/8 thickness with Clevis ends in the front of the rods on the axle and heims in the rear of the rods attached to the frame with misalignment spacers.

My question is, will this be adequate for the front end?
I would prefer some slender (regular) rod ends (like in the rear), but am limited on space laterally for the brackets on the axle before the upward bend.

My pics will prob come out upside down and sideways, sorry I have not figured out how to do this properly. Attached are pics of the brackets I want to use on the front axle, the front end f the truck as it sits and the rear end for reference.

Thanks for your input and experience with this...

These will be attached with 5/8 bolts
 

Attachments

  • 7317AEFA-8DFD-485E-9ED1-803202E821CA.jpg
    7317AEFA-8DFD-485E-9ED1-803202E821CA.jpg
    70.4 KB · Views: 31
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    84.6 KB · Views: 32
  • D6F0C31E-962E-4AB5-8734-5720C3F31CE5.jpg
    D6F0C31E-962E-4AB5-8734-5720C3F31CE5.jpg
    109.8 KB · Views: 26
Clevises up front are fine, but I would run bushed ends at the back... like your rear bars have.

Many people will disagree with me, but a street car should not run solid ends all around. Should you strike a sharp pothole, or bang a curb, something has to give. As a matter of fact, a suspension bar with two solid ends would fail a basic safety inspection here in SK, for that very reason...



.
 

Attachments

  • az33.jpg
    az33.jpg
    176.5 KB · Views: 20
  • az331.jpg
    az331.jpg
    103.6 KB · Views: 21
I wouldn't use clevises on a four link. They are intended to be stationary, like on the front of hair pins, where they don't have to pivot. Tie rod ends, Heim joints and urethane bushings all are designed to pivot.

Dr. C gives good advice regarding the shock absorbing quality of rubber or urethane bushings.
 
Excellent point Bob. Clevises are for hairpins, so you should either construct a hairpin, or find another solution for your 4 bar...

.
 
bob w and Doc are correct.
Another thing the bushed ends eliminates is, the road noise getting transferred into the passenger compartment.
 
Agreed - I used heim's and rubber bushings on my Graham build, although it was hairpins, not a 4 link. The bushings are a definite for a street car.
 
You all make some good points, thanks for the input.
I guess it's back to my original plan and I'll just have to make it work.
 
I was thinking hairpins. And was under the assumption it is ok to use a hiem or tie rod end at at the back end of hair pin or split wish bone. [S
I was wondering about this myself. i have heard that heims are not recommended, but... i have a split wishbone front suspension from a 40 Ford for my next project, and I already have the "tie rod" ends and weld-in bungs for it. I know its a common method. I haven't heard any down side about it. If I am mistaken, someone please speak up.
 
Tie rod ends have been used on split bones for decades. They just transfer a little more road shock. Before there was urethane bushings there was tie rods.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top