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Hadn’t thought about it really, I’ve never seen a set that actually looked like they might contribute anything more than marginal stiffness to the body. If I would make a set, they’d have a flange on both sides for the full length and be spot welded every inch and a half or so

Just FYI in case it helps...

Early Falcons are structurally challenged because they lack proper torque boxes. There are several ways to improve their structure, including subframe connectors.

Different but similar: We have a '79 V8 Fox Mustang project. When we first had it running and driving, it handled like a wet noodle. I thought it was steering or front suspension related. I was wrong. Further investigation and some research proved the car was simply too flexible...

Unbeknownst to me at the time, they have a reputation and earned a nickname, "The Hinge". Despite good torque boxes, they're soft in the middle. So I fabricated subframe connectors. They don't touch the floor, but are heavily tied into both subframes and the torque boxes. The difference was night and day, problem solved.

Just sharing my experience. I didn't think two tubes could make such a difference, but they absolutely cured the limp Mustang.

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Dr.C is right, the 6 cyl cars are thinner metal and flex, even with the 6!
I’d go ahead and build a frame to fit the body. That way, you could make the front end a full tilt for access, and in the rear, have a good, solid place to mount the suspension and rear end. You could narrow the rails in back so you could get a huge tire inside the fenders if you wanted. A 2” x 3” would be plenty big, and strong. You could even channel the floor halfway over the frame and it wouldn’t be noticeable from the side.
 
Dr.C is right, the 6 cyl cars are thinner metal and flex, even with the 6!
I’d go ahead and build a frame to fit the body. That way, you could make the front end a full tilt for access, and in the rear, have a good, solid place to mount the suspension and rear end. You could narrow the rails in back so you could get a huge tire inside the fenders if you wanted. A 2” x 3” would be plenty big, and strong. You could even channel the floor halfway over the frame and it wouldn’t be noticeable from the side.

I don’t think I wanna go as far as building a whole frame for a perfectly rust free car, especially with the weight penalty. I will look into subframe connectors though, I’ll build my own and firmly fasten them in, including to the floor and braces running out to the inner rocker sills.
 
He was on both sites. He's a smart cookie and I've learned a lot from his MII writings...

http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/

I'm still confused, Bruce. When and where did Norm Grabowski fly in?

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I was just wondering because I read in an old hot rod magazine about him joining one of their power tours and he was going by Elpolako. I’m gonna see if I can find that issue.
 
Ok, found it. October, 2005 issue of Hot Rod
 

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Alright, never mind. Can’t be the same guy. Just googled Norm Grabowski an he’s dead. Unless they have WiFi where he’s at.
 
Hey Doc, Thanks for that link on the torque boxes, I saved it to pdf. Looks easy enough to do, I wanted to pull my fenders off anyway to check for hidden rust.
 

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