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The stuff I get at the Case IH dealer is the best I've found.
B505501 CNH Industrial Strength Rust Penetrant $4.19
I've tried most all of the off the shelf and homemade stuff, this is by far #1 on the top of my list.
It has graphite in it also.
 
The coolest rust remover I ever saw was about 20 years ago and it was called nutz off. with a name like that it did not have to work well but it did. I think I bought it at the NAPA just for the name. un fortunatly I have not seen it in years.
 
Second the lacquer thinner/ATF combo

We use a mix of 50/50 lacquer thinner and ATF to help unstick engines. It usually works. We never turn an engine over without trying the mix first. Try to prevent a broken ring. Of course if the engine has been virtually submerged then nothing will work. When flatheads sit around for some time the valves tend to stick to the seats. As a precaution we always tip the block and pour in the mix. Don't want to pull a valve seat out of the block. Just some successes we have had. Later
 
The Acetone/ATF mix is called Kroil. And the solution can vary by what you want. Most people do a 60/40 mix. Meaning 60% acetone and 40% ATF. 50/50 works but not nearly as well. The primary downfall is just how flammable it is. ATF is a class 1 fire hazard and so is acetone. Spray it in a spray bottle and you have a mist that will ignite very rapidly. Kinda like a fuel injector. I'm a bit of a pyro so a few years back we were sitting around the bonfire and we had a bunch of flammables to get rid of. I.E. old gasoline, half full bottles of ATF without lids, power steering fluid from old systems that we flushed on the farm, oil that was mixed with water and brake cleaner, and a few cap less bottles of dot 2 brake fluid. So, we tossed em in the fire one by one. By far, the ATF put out a bigger flame than the rest. Would I suggest doing that, HELL NO!!! But out on the farm where you don't have anything to worry bout and you have plenty of room, it made sense at the time.
 

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