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The first of many....

Spent the morning screwing around.....:eek: :p :D
Set the screws in the SB side Intermediate frames.
These get the shortest screws. 1 Inch.
Time for therapy. On to the other side this afternoon.
Torchie
 

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Todays goal was to get all the screws set in the main and auxilary frames.
Starboard side is done and I was about 80 percent through on the port side when my back and hands called a strike.:eek: The main and aux frames take the longest screw. 1-3/4 inch.
I burnt out my cheap HF drill last night drilling and counter sinking holes so now I'm using one that is older then the boat.:cool::cool:
I also just crossed the 1000th screw threshold.:D
I will finish setting the frame screws tomorrow and then start on the screws along the keel and then the lower transom bow.
Thanks for stopping by....
Torch
 

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Wow that's a lot of work Torchie. Make sure you keep that drill away from your chest - that's one of the things my doctor warned me of! I know my comfortable place to lean into a drill is with my chest, and when you load those buggers up I think they create a hell of a field.
 
Wow that's a lot of work Torchie. Make sure you keep that drill away from your chest - that's one of the things my doctor warned me of! I know my comfortable place to lean into a drill is with my chest, and when you load those buggers up I think they create a hell of a field.

Thanks for all the comments gang.
Thanks BillM. I will keep that in mind.
I guess you and I will never be driving a Tesla.:eek: [cl :p :cool:
Took a break from the wooden boat version of grinding and welding (Drilling and screwing) and trimmed down the outer planks.
Now it looks like a boat bottom.:D
After a break I will get back to welding.......er..... Drilling.
The Inspector General stopped by to check things out.:cool:
Keep on keeping on.
Torchie
 

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Thanks all.:D
I gave it one last push and finished setting all the screws on the starboard side.[cl [cl [cl [cl

In the first pic you can see a butt block. There are 10 on this bottom. One per row of planks. The holes with the ring around them is where the 5200 pushed up through the screw hole and got under the flat washer. All of this will be gone once I fair the bottom.
Once I finish the PS tomorrow I will go back over each row of screws and reset the ones that aren't counter sunk deep enough.
The plan is that by tomorrow night the bottom will be wetted down and cover with thin plastic sheeting to raise the moisture content of the wood.
It will be re wetted and covered for 2 -3 days.
Once that is done I'll uncover it and after about 2 days I will start to fair it all.
Then I get to fill all the holes.:eek: :eek:
Thanks for stopping by.
Torchie
 

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Lookin good, Torchie. And thanks for driving me to the boat building glossary. Now I know where the term "fair" maiden comes from. :D
 
I am amazed by the effort and the patience it takes to do what you are doing Torchie - and appreciate you for taking the time to keep us up to date on all the steps.

Maybe I'm just thankful to know what it takes to do this, so that I would never take on a job like it!
 
Lol Skip.
Learning the nomenclature is one of the pluses of working on wooden boats. Can’t ask the pros questions if you can’t speak the language.

It’s been a while since I’ve done this much work on a Chris Craft BillM.
Plus it’s my first 5200 bottom which isn’t really all that much difference from putting on a traditional bottom. Still the same number of screws.Lol
I believe it took a team of workers about a week to build one of these at the factory.
Most likely my last boat build. And that will be by choice.😜
Torchie
 
Is the screw holes filled the same as a hardwood floor where ya skim the bottom and sand the surface?

Screw holes will all be filled with Famo wood filler. Just like the factory. Some people use 3M Marine filler as well., OI
Before the holes get filled the bottom has to be faired"To the eye." In other words smooth. Then you fill the holes and sand them smooth. Some people use wooden bungs in the bottom too. That's overkill to my way of thinking. But I'm getting ahead of my self.....
Bottom is now FULLY fastened.:eek: :cool:
Approx. 2000 screws. And one drill later.:p
I've wetted down the bottom with water and covered it all with thin plastic sheeting to help slow down the evaporation of the water. This is done to raise the moisture level of the wood. And to help cure the 5200. The factory kept their bottom planks at about 10-14 % moisture level. The wood we use now is all kiln dry so it starts out at about 6-8 %. Even though this will all be sealed its still possible to get cracking in the planks or for a seam to open slightly. But with all the 5200 under the planks it won't leak if that happens.
I will spray it down again tomorrow as well.
After that I will leave the plastic on till the planks show little sign of moisture.
Then it gets uncovered for a bit and then the fairing of the bottom begins.
Still a few steps yet to go....
Thanks for the interest.
Torchie
 

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Thank You for the ongoing education, Torchie.

You said faired "to the eye" which I now understand, but what will be the process? Will you use a "guide coat" of some sort?

.
 
Thank You for the ongoing education, Torchie.

You said faired "to the eye" which I now understand, but what will be the process? Will you use a "guide coat" of some sort?

.

No guide coat Dr. I’ve got some long battens as well as a 6 foot level that I will just lay on the bottom as I go along. The factory guidelines for bottom fairing says that a1/8 of an inch difference is acceptable.🙀 We will do better then that.
I may use my DA or go whole hog and pick up a cheap HF variable speed sander/ polisher. I will use a foam pad in it with 40 grit to begin and the go to my air board with 80 grit. About 3 hits of labor per side.
It doesn’t have to be perfect as I’m not building a 500 hp drag boat.😳
Torchie
 

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