'47 Dodge shop truck

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I pulled the running boards off this afternoon.
Took the headlights off preparing for the light relocation.

Next week I'm going to load this puppy up and go get the
registration and title done before the serious work of engine
and transmission change.
 

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Great job on the cowl lights Pops.[cl
Now I'm just waiting for the nay sayers to tell you how your paint will never stick to the brazed areas[S Oh wait a minute. That's what they say on that other site.[ddd
My bed looks to be in about the same shape as yours is pit wise. I mainly got it to use as a mock up as the price was right.
I was looking at the way that ZZ bent up his running boards with out a brake and am thinking that it could be translated to work on bed sides as well. Including the roll at the top. :D
Torchie.
 
I pulled the running boards off this afternoon.
Took the headlights off preparing for the light relocation.

Next week I'm going to load this puppy up and go get the
registration and title done before the serious work of engine
and transmission change.

A local guy used the peaks from a spare dodge fender to fill in the light recesses. The got patches for both fenders from the one donor fender. It came out looking nice.

He mounted his new headlights like this one:

attachment.php
 
Great job on the cowl lights Pops.[cl
Now I'm just waiting for the nay sayers to tell you how your paint will never stick to the brazed areas[S Oh wait a minute. That's what they say on that other site.[ddd
My bed looks to be in about the same shape as yours is pit wise. I mainly got it to use as a mock up as the price was right.
I was looking at the way that ZZ bent up his running boards with out a brake and am thinking that it could be translated to work on bed sides as well. Including the roll at the top.
Torchie.

I'm gonna give the ZZ roll a try on a piece of 16 ga. and see if I can roll it tight enough. If so it would sure beat the welding the pipe way. I think I'll try it on a piece of scrap first.
 
A local guy used the peaks from a spare dodge fender to fill in the light recesses. The got patches for both fenders from the one donor fender. It came out looking nice.

He mounted his new headlights like this one:

That would be the best way of doing the fender top repair if you had a extra fender to get the patches out of. Seems like I heard of a really nice guy, in the Kentucky area, that had some fenders since he was going to use a set of Fargo fenders on his build. You know him? [S
 
I'm gonna give the ZZ roll a try on a piece of 16 ga. and see if I can roll it tight enough. If so it would sure beat the welding the pipe way. I think I'll try it on a piece of scrap first.
I was thinking that just before I went to sleep last night.
Make the curl before you break the angle at the top.
If you leave the pipe in the curl and cut it off flush with the ends, weld around them, it would look like factory [dr
 
i like that blue a lot.
good color choice buddy

Good Morning Billy,
Thanks, It came down to the blue or this Green:
I gave my Bride the final vote and she picked the blue.

In the back of my feeble mind, I'm thinking I'll keep the '99 frame and axles for a Power Wagon body swap. I've always loved the flat fendered Power Wagons.
 

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I was thinking that just before I went to sleep last night.
Make the curl before you break the angle at the top.
If you leave the pipe in the curl and cut it off flush with the ends, weld around them, it would look like factory [dr

Man, I'm glad I'm not the only one that thinks about this stuff all the time.
My wife says I have a one track mind.

Do you think the curved part would rust faster? I know if you just lap metal it tends to rust faster if any moisture gets in. Maybe cap the ends and seal the curl where it meets the bed wall with under coating?
 
I was thinking that just before I went to sleep last night.
Make the curl before you break the angle at the top.
If you leave the pipe in the curl and cut it off flush with the ends, weld around them, it would look like factory [dr

Darn it OI. That was my thought as well. If you get a tight enough roll you wouldn't be able to get at the tack welds to cut them and pull the pipe. So leave it. I concour on doing the roll first then the angle if one is used.
If rust was a concern I would coat the pipe as well as the 16 gauge before you roll. Then the only bare areas would be your tacks.

I've had about 50/50% success with paint sticking to brass.
I treated it with adhesion promoter from NAPA before priming it.
We'll see. But it won't surprise me if I don't end up doing something else.

Back when I didn't know better[S and used to braze everything. I would clean the braze with a solutions of baking soda and water. Then use 60 grit paper to give the braze some teeth for the primer to stick to. Never had a problem That I know of.
It isn't the brass that the issue. It's the flux in the rod that causes problem as it is an acid. No different that when doing lead work and tinning the metal first. The tinning contains acid as well. And if you don't neutralize it afterwards then you will have problems.
Torchie.
 
Progress

Got this thing stripped naked.
Going to start from scratch and do it the way I think it ought to be done.
Got the 350 boat anchor out and stripped the unwanted stuff off the Mopar.
I'm going to go with new heads, headers, carb, new cam and dizzy set up. Should end up with just over 400 hp. Got a 518/46rh overdrive transmission coming. Going to rebuild the rear end with 4.10 gears and posi track.

Going to rebuild the front end and do the needed frame work next.
It has a 70 something front subframe that is not quite squared up and needs some boxing and strength added.

The fun has started now!!!
 

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