Removing zinc plating question.

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

donsrods

Well-known member
Joined
May 11, 2007
Messages
10,476
Location
fort myers florida
I just bought a Hurst style engine mount from Speedway for my rpu project and I have to cut and weld it to fit my frame. It is zinc plated and I need to remove it all first.

I have heard muriatic acid works. Any one have experience with how to remove it ?


Don
 
Muriatic acid takes away a large percentage of the zinc. Place the engine mount in a bucket of muriatic acid and let it set. The acid will slowly neutralize, and may have to be replaced. You will still have to be careful when welding, but the fumes will not be nearly as bad. Remove the acid by rinsing, and using baking soda.
 
If you drink a large glass of milk before you weld zinc or galvanized parts it will keep you from getting sick. as the gas fumes get into your system from your stomach as well as your lungs.
 
I've found you have to really work at neutralizing that acid... it's very strong! Take care doing that or it'll cause problems later!

BoB
 
I've found you have to really work at neutralizing that acid... it's very strong! Take care doing that or it'll cause problems later!

BoB

+1

In my last job we used it to clean concrete. Ventilation, respirator, gloves and respect are a must.
 
+1 In my last job we used it to clean concrete. Ventilation, respirator, gloves and respect are a must.

That's a fact, it'll burn your skin, breathing it will burn your nasal passages and lungs easily! I suggest you only use it outdoors!

Beercan
 
Yes on the rusting ! My Son cleaned some parts outside our shop and brought the plastic bottle inside. A day later I walked into the shop and everything was rusty........drill press, tools, steel we had stored, everything ! :eek:

When I told him I was thinking about using it on this mount he said no way ! Nasty stuff. Maybe I will try sandblasting it.

Don
 
I find white vinegar (5% acetic acid) does the trick. Throw the part in a container with the vinegar, make sure its totally covered, leave it for 24-48 hours and done ( I have had a few parts take a couple more days depending on the coating thickness but its been rare). Neutralize the acid with a quick water rinse and dry the part really well with a clean towel. You don't have to deal with harsh acids, you can pour it down the sink/toilet without issues or dilute and dump outside. It doesn't take it all off as BH pointed out but if I am welding the part I will usually give it a quick hit with a wire wheel and that seems to clean it enough that I haven't had issues welding the part afterwards.
 
Don, I had a chrome shop that would strip anything of of metal including zink for a very small charge. If you have one close you might give them a call.
 
I find white vinegar (5% acetic acid) does the trick. Throw the part in a container with the vinegar, make sure its totally covered, leave it for 24-48 hours and done ( I have had a few parts take a couple more days depending on the coating thickness but its been rare). Neutralize the acid with a quick water rinse and dry the part really well with a clean towel. You don't have to deal with harsh acids, you can pour it down the sink/toilet without issues or dilute and dump outside. It doesn't take it all off as BH pointed out but if I am welding the part I will usually give it a quick hit with a wire wheel and that seems to clean it enough that I haven't had issues welding the part afterwards.

this is the way I've done it
 
You can use Phosphoric Acid to removed zinc, As it removes rust it parkerizes the steel and prevent rust.

Chances are you have Phosphoric Acid, about 4% in your bathroom. Most Toilet Bowl cleaner is 4% Phosphoric Acid and is plenty strong enough if you do an over night bath. Head over to your local Dollar Store, a few bottle should be enough.
 
Wish we had a chrome shop nearby, but we don't. I think I will try the white vinegar trick first then grind or sandblast it some more, if needed. I can't imagine Speedway used the very thickest plating on the part.

Thanks for all the tips.

Don
 
I'd be tempted to transfer the necessary holes (and shape) to another plate and return the Speedway piece...

.

You must be reading our minds ! :D My Son Dan suggested using masonite to copy the shape and hole locations, then use that to fabricate a brand new piece. He feels it will take more work to modify the Speedway piece than to make a brand new one.

Plus, I can use the Speedway one if I decide to put another crate motor in the 46, it would bolt right to the existing Ford bisquit mounts.

Don
 

Latest posts

Back
Top