96 GMC rat build

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Can't deny it goes with the flow

I like the idea of the Sgt stripes. If that's what you want, go for it. Also it is good you decided to lower it. They all look bettered lowered...

jim
yeah, my kid convinced me it woul look much cooler in the weeds...
Really wonder about the spring seat cut out thing in the factory a arms..... seems it should be easy to do... just haven't seen it before other than the tube fabbed type.... would like to see if anyone has done it.... maybe I should post in the Q&A or suspension areas..... may do that....
 
The lights would be symbolic to you and add to your enjoyment of this truck so how can you go wrong :)I like the idea for the a arms. Haven't heard of this being done before. If the idea works out well i can steal it and start selling them on ebay :D Be sure to let us know :rolleyes::D
 
You will be the first I contact...

Earthman, I'll give you a bump when I find out..... partners on the ebay stuff though..... :D
 
Wasn't going to but after our discussion decided to c-notch it to get it into the weeds...... now I HAVE to do the front...... looking into 2" drop spindles and springs... thought about cutting the springs but might go the "spend money" direction to get it done once (correctly)..... thanks for the cudo's on the frenching.... I thought about cutting out the spring bucket on the lower a arm and welding in a deeper bucket to the stock arm.. anyone tried that??? If I could do that, then I might try cutting the spring a little and sinking the spring deeper in a arm.... I know they make lowering arms but lots of green for them.....

Musclecar on the Power Block did a how-to on adding depth to the spring cups in the a-arms a while back.

What they did was put a vertical cut in the cup and cut around the cup from top to bottom in a spiral, then added a 1 inch strip of flat stock for a 1 inch drop.

Hopefully that was a somewhat clear description. I don't know if you'd be able to find that episode for purchase or to watch online, I don't remember what else was in it.

They also went over boxing the stock a-arms in for strength.

-Chaz
 
Appreciate that!

Musclecar on the Power Block did a how-to on adding depth to the spring cups in the a-arms a while back.

What they did was put a vertical cut in the cup and cut around the cup from top to bottom in a spiral, then added a 1 inch strip of flat stock for a 1 inch drop.

Hopefully that was a somewhat clear description. I don't know if you'd be able to find that episode for purchase or to watch online, I don't remember what else was in it.

They also went over boxing the stock a-arms in for strength.

-Chaz

Kinda what I was thinking.... (or at least something similar) Man, I don't normally miss too many of the powerblock shows.... the kid records them and I watch them when I get home at night... missed that one..... I'll check their site.... thanks again....:D
 
just about got the back end done...

made up the shock mounts.... that 3/4 rod tube stock is 9/16 inside diameter and go through the 1/4" 2x4 boxed that I used to re-enforce the frame rails.... should hold fine without a gusset.... pulled the front suspension apart to cut out the spring bucket out of the a-arm and found the 6" round in 1/4" that I had was to small inside diameter for the spring.... decided to cut 2 1/2" 1/8th flate stock and bent it to the correct diameter and weld it up.... then cut out the A-arms to piece in the new lower bucket.... darn roof still isn't here.... promised to deliver it last Friday..... trying to save a buck has cost me more in time than I'd prefer.... should have just paid the extra money and got it from the salvage yard instead....a few new pics.. not much to see....
 

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Wouldn't you know......

Got all excited about the shock mounts being done and after fitting the right side shock, it fit like a glove and had just the right amount of shock travel ......now for the bad..

for some unknown to me reason, they (the factory)welds the left side shock mount on the diff about 1 1/2 inch higher on the left axle tube than the right... so when the axle flip and angles were set, the right side was facing down so it added travel and the left was nosed up even more and reduced the travel.... shock fit but was bottomed out immediately....so, had to cut the shock mount off the axle tube and reweld to match the right side.... (didn't have any room to reweld the bung I had put into the boxed frame rail....never noticed it before, but it was even more noticeable when the axle was sitting on a slightly different angle after the flip... just didn't pay attention to detail I guess.....:eek:
 
Yeah had the box and round stock lying around...

Looks really cool love the tail lights and the c notch looks a lot better than the regular 22 degree straight angle c notches

thanks on the lights, I thinking about the notch kit but I had the 2x4 box and round tube lying around... don't even remember where I got the 7" x1/4" round tube[S.. but had 2' of it so I cut off a foot and cut that in half... so far this build is really pretty low buck.... we'll see if it remains that way.... [;)
 
cut out the spring cup on the A arms

Got the buckets made welded and reinforced into the A arms... left them long and will be welding in center at the 2"s I wanted then cut the rest off and finish them off.... still deciding whether to cut down the spring or wait and see how low the front drops with buckets.... probably over engineered but they won't be going anywhere...... the inside is 3/16" rolled around a form and is 6" inside diameter.... end cap will be 1/4".... I would step them if I had to do it over..... probably less work...
 

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Finally got the roof this morning.....

paid a bit more ($100) than the $50 the other guy was going to charge but at least I have it for the weekend.... and I didn't have to wade through anything to get it.....I'll post some shots as I go..... I mean I'll post some pic's as I try to get the pieces sectioned in.... I'll probably be ready for a shot or two after I'm done...lol :eek:
 
Got all excited about the shock mounts being done and after fitting the right side shock, it fit like a glove and had just the right amount of shock travel ......now for the bad..

for some unknown to me reason, they (the factory)welds the left side shock mount on the diff about 1 1/2 inch higher on the left axle tube than the right... so when the axle flip and angles were set, the right side was facing down so it added travel and the left was nosed up even more and reduced the travel.... shock fit but was bottomed out immediately....so, had to cut the shock mount off the axle tube and reweld to match the right side.... (didn't have any room to reweld the bung I had put into the boxed frame rail....never noticed it before, but it was even more noticeable when the axle was sitting on a slightly different angle after the flip... just didn't pay attention to detail I guess.....:eek:

Sorry to hear ya had to redo your shock mount:( When you're saying axle flip do you mean you moved the rear from under the springs to above the springs to lower the truck?? You didn't actually flip the rear end over did you....as in making the right side become the left side ??
 
Lord no......:eek:

Sorry to hear ya had to redo your shock mount:( When you're saying axle flip do you mean you moved the rear from under the springs to above the springs to lower the truck?? You didn't actually flip the rear end over did you....as in making the right side become the left side ??

Just a term they use..... axle now sits on top of the spring pack...and the frame is c-notched for extra...(very much needed) clearance..... I'm old.... but not that old.....LOL :)
 
Just a term they use..... axle now sits on top of the spring pack...and the frame is c-notched for extra...(very much needed) clearance..... I'm old.... but not that old.....LOL :)

LOL, it was late and I was pretty sleepy when reading that last night and I thought nah, surely he didn't do that :D When I was a kid in the sixties one of my friend's father did mechanic work on the side and had all kinds of parts and stuff around all the time. He traded for an early 50's Chevy car that had the rear end locked up. He had a rear end laying out back of his garage but the spring perches were a little too far apart, so he moved the perches in and installed it in the Chevy.......never thinking about it being out of a truck and that he had flipped it over. Got it all together, bled the brakes, fired it up, put it in first gear and.............backwards he went:eek: It was the talk of the neighborhood..... one forward gear and three reverses :eek:

Good to see you making progress on the truck.
 
Just Realized.....

I never included the initial pics of the chop when I started.... my bad...here they are.... for what's it's worth.....[P
 

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You might want to look into glass band saws. I used my wife's stained glass Gemini ring saw for my flat glass windshield and it worked real slick. You can get a used one for around $100+, but I haven't tried curved glass.
 

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