Well This Will Be Different, New Member Here

Background of this 1993 Ranger:

This is the original build thread:

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/v8-tech/283624-build-thread.html?highlight=gsparton

Older Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5H7C7LBpPg&feature=youtu.be

Cutting it up, Mounted 35s yesterday, gona mount and cut to fit front, It will take 6 months to a year to finish:

Welcome to RRR! So what is the end plan?

Welcome
Different it will be but cool

Sam_Fear said:

Welcome to RRR! So what is the end plan?

Click to expand...

Thought about an older body on this frame, but, for first iteration, I like the stock radiator core support, So I will clean up the cuts, mount the hood and cut it down in a wedge shape to align to the core support. For the bed, I will run a narrow frame to frame long bed with cedar bed floor and steel sides bent to shape an old style bed. I have a good bit of money in this vehicle and the drive line is solid.

It will be stripped to be a rust rod.

In the near term the interior will stay modern, long term will be a different body or a chop, a chop on this body is not easy given the shape, too much slope...

Old Iron said:

Welcome
Different it will be but cool

Click to expand...

Thanks man...

Different than most other rigs on this site but different is good sometimes. I vote finding a 40s or 50s ford cab to set on it. Maybe do something like that pre runner international that's on YouTube.

Looks fast... drive carefully.

mounted starter solenoid and coil, check out the size of that Must Have battery cable lol, gone start stripping off all the paint very soon

Made some progress, cut hood, hood latches, many wires gone, headlights mounted, body work, will mount 35s to front next week:

Can ya see the pics?

The pics in the last post showed up, but the pics in post #8 don't show for me.

I'm gonna be brutally honest. S10's don't look right as fenderless rods - my opinion. The frame and front suspension are too clunky and the front overhang give S10's the proportions of a bulldozer. I think you should have left the fenders on and just cut the wells.

That said, since your already into it these are my suggestions: You might use the back part of the fenders to cover the firewall sides - it would clean it up a little. Run the wiring in flare end hard tubes - it looks like a rats nest under there. Braided cable for the headlight wires and any showing wires not under the hood. The hood paint looks very cool, the door paint not so much?

Getting the 35's on there might help the proportion issues. My theory is, you could get better proportions using IFS by changing to rack and pinion so the front frame horns can be cut back. The other part of that theory would be to shift the cab, motor, and radiator back as far as possible to get the standard fenderless rat rod proportions - wheels ahead of the grill and short bed. Just a theory.

Also, chopping that top will be all about the glass. Deal with the windshield glass first. Make the opening fit it - perfectly. The side windows can't be cut - tempered glass, although some very new cars have laminated door glass that could be cut down to work. Don't use lexan, etc. for a windshield - it's not really safe and always looks bad.

In the end, it's your ride, not mine, so do what YOU like. I'm just giving you some stuff to think about.

EDIT: Oh yeah, round off those bumper corners a little before somebody takes a chunk out of their shins!

Thanks man, I said it would be different and take me a year to finish, but it is what it is, given that it is over 500HP, 347 stroker, supercharged, WC T5, driving an 8.8 with 4:10 gears, I still want it reliable to 150MPH (and yes tire speed rating) on this 93 ford ranger, it has basically an indestructible twin I beam front, a configuration that dates way back. (designed and patented by Edmund Rumpler in 1903)
Your comments are dead on true, I am looking for an old truck body but for now I am having fun. Lol

Looking better, 35s done:

I sincerely apologize for referring to your Ranger as an S10. I'm more familiar with Ranger as an options package than a truck.


With the twin-I you dont need to change to rack and pinion, but you have those ugly spring towers to deal with. If you plan on finding a old cab anyhow, you'll eventually want to build a new frame and that's the time to clean up the suspension. 20's-30's 4doors cut down into extended truck cabs well too.

The 35's make a big difference. Door looks good now.

Sam_Fear said:

I sincerely apologize for referring to your Ranger as an S10. I'm more familiar with Ranger as an options package than a truck.


With the twin-I you dont need to change to rack and pinion, but you have those ugly spring towers to deal with. If you plan on finding a old cab anyhow, you'll eventually want to build a new frame and that's the time to clean up the suspension. 20's-30's 4doors cut down into extended truck cabs well too.

The 35's make a big difference. Door looks good now.

Click to expand...

Build in progress and changes every day, I will feather the paint to the steel and remove the galvanized coating to facilitate rust... All the brackets along the firewall edges will be ground off... I often have more time than money these days... Also in two years this truck will be 25 years old,, antique vehicle...

Update vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqaKB5VX4vs

Made some progress on the rear:

https://get.google.com/albumarchive/114278469057501933999/album/AF1QipNo58TRdOUoYhRaI4aMRqziv2Vjo_zfuragu5B5

Cab needs something

Since the wheels stick out some, maybe some narrow running boards running into something like jeep front fenders? Started doing something like yours with a 83 toyota and a 413 about 8 years ago but got cut happy with the top, ended bad.

21 cubic feet of water tight lockable storage for $80 lol, Just finished a 100 MPH shake down run, smooth as glass, trailer ready for Jeep trip to Moab Ut in 3 weeks:

https://goo.gl/photos/GRWseqp2YkrLJSsD7