What were they thinking ?

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Onequick26

Puts Nitro on his Cheerios
Joined
May 12, 2007
Messages
622
Location
Spokane,WA
I have a 94' Ram 1500 2wd that i drive every day.It has 198,000 miles on the origanal engine and dose'int leak or burn a drop of oil,Any how one of Dodge's weak point's is there ball joint's and has been for many years.Well mine are toast so went to replace them and for some reason Dodge WELDED the lower ball joint to the lower controll arm:eek:.Now why would they do that? But in 95' they are not welded so at least i did'int have to buy a brand new controll arm just a used one from a newer truck.

Well Im done with my rant now.

I do love my truck.
 
Been there......

I know what you mean, I had a 69 3/4 ton powerwagon for many years.
It had the crappy little straps that hold the u joint to the yoke.
And a short driveshaft between the granny 4 and the transfer case.
About every 6 months a strap would cut loose and the shaft would be smacking the cab
floor at freeway speeds. It got your attention...:eek:
It was always that short shaft, never the main shafts.
Then, walk back and get the pieces, reassemble and go on.
Always had the tools and spare u joints and straps with me.
Finally found yokes from a different dana unit that took u bolts, replaced them and never had another problem...;) '22
 
I've been 4 wheelin for years and found those re-occuring problems like that are usually from yolks that are out of round. I fought that problem for a long while before I figured it out.
 
My Dad and Me

My brother gave our father a 74' Chevy Luv pickup. My Dad lived on a hill and got tired of down shifting with that 4 banger. He told me he wanted a V8. I told him I would build a motor first before I do the swap. That weekend, I went to Vegas. When I came home, he had the top of the motor disassembled. Sigh! I ran out and bought a long block from a local engine re-building shop. I added a mild cam, Edelbrock intake and Hooker made headers for the swap. Hooker also made a swap kit, but it placed the motor too high and I would have to modify the firewall, so I made my own motor and trans mounts.
After the swap, my Dad complainted that the factory gauges didn't work. I explained that everything was metric, that's why I added aftermarket gauges under the dash. He said, nope! He wanted the stock gauges to work, @#%&#@ sigh......I got threaded brass plugs, drill and threaded them for metric and now his gauges would work. Then my father complained the parking brake didn't work. I explained that the bellcrank for the parking brake was too short and the headers were in the way. He said, "I want the parking brake to work!". Jeez!!!! @#$#@%&* OK! Took the bellcrank, welded on an extension and heated the arm, to bend it over. The parking brake now worked. Then my father said, "The heater doesn't work". I explained that the coolant outlet was on the opposite side of the motor. He said he didn't care, he wanted it to work. (Someone shoot me!) I got tubing, flaired the ends, ran tubing and hoses under the radiator support and got heat.
Once everything was complete and working, I have to admit, it looked like the factory installed the 350/350. At the time, I hated my father, but I glad he made me do everything right. :rolleyes:
When I added a Ford 9", to get better gear ratios, I KNEW he was right.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top