Lil Tin Bucket - golf cart #3

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How's your humidity? I'm with the "too warm" school, but combined with high humidity is a recipe for... well, you know. :mad:

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Mornings are around 63%, afternoons drop to mid 40%. I don't think that's too far out of acceptable - Lordco's paint tech told me late afternoons should be better as the temp will be dropping (hopefully), slowing the drying somewhat.
 
So... how did it turn out?

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Oh my Gawd, I've never had so much trouble with painting as this was. Kharma is getting me for going shiny I think!:(
After peeling the paint and starting over twice, 5 tries at spraying the clear, I was about to hurt myself - like a nightmare I couldn't wake up from. I even tried another brand of clear with worse results...
Fixed the damage to the filler, resprayed a sealer/prime coat - new regulator/water separator, new HVLP gun with regulator, fresh batch of base coat, perfect 70 degree temp, today I shot the base and clear -- SUCCESS !!
Upon recc from Lordco paint tech, I added 1/2 part reducer to the clear - that may be the magic ingredient right there as it should allow the clear to flow out better and release the other solvents before the surface skins over, trapping them into making tiny bubbles under the surface. That addition of reducer was not on the original mix sheet I had been working with.
Wet sand and buff tomorrow, then finally back on for some belated end of summer cruising...:)
 
I understand today's formulations are less likely to "love and obey".

At any rate, I'm glad you found the "cure". Photos required and congratulations on a well deserved, hard-fought finish!

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Almost back together, tomorrow I'll get some outside pics for a proper comparo with the old wheels and front fender shape..
 

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First 2 pics are the before and after - it's not massively narrower but I think it's an improvement. The wheels definitely look better tho...
There is one bummer though (of course!), I used up all my old batch of base coat with all the failed painting fiasco and the new mix is a couple shades lighter even though it was mixed to the original paint code :( I'm not doing it again :mad:
 

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It looks great! I can't wait wait to see it at the end of the week!

Since the mix is a bit off, it might be better to get a part from the truck scanned. There are paint shops that do it around here and they can get the match pretty much bang on. Might be something to consider.
 
I got a different hood for the 3100 about 1 year after I had painted the truck. I painted the new hood with paint left over from the original paint job. Used the same reducer. Temperatures were similar. It came out a different shade and glossier.

I think it takes a real pro - someone who paints everyday for a living - to do those kinds of matches and blends.

Give it a few weeks - you'll hardly notice it at all.
 
It looks great! I can't wait wait to see it at the end of the week!

Since the mix is a bit off, it might be better to get a part from the truck scanned. There are paint shops that do it around here and they can get the match pretty much bang on. Might be something to consider.

Thanks, I'm really looking forward to the Radium run. Yes, I know the GM dealers body shop has a spectral anylizer, just scan it and it spits out the formula -Star Trek stuff!

I got a different hood for the 3100 about 1 year after I had painted the truck. I painted the new hood with paint left over from the original paint job. Used the same reducer. Temperatures were similar. It came out a different shade and glossier.

I think it takes a real pro - someone who paints everyday for a living - to do those kinds of matches and blends.

Give it a few weeks - you'll hardly notice it at all.

The important thing is that my wife hasn't noticed yet :rolleyes::cool: In the second pic you can see the difference in the center piece below the grille shell, it was the only thing that turned out OK with the last of my old paint, it is much darker.
 
Hood ornament

Got busy today and put together this 'flying eyeball' grille ornament for the cart. The main ball is made from 2 stainless spoons welded together, rest is stainless rod and 18 ga. sheet. It's about 5" high by 8" wide - not Bonehead quality but I think it will get a few chuckles...
 

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Good grief man, don't you ever sleep [ddd
:cool: The Henway turned out really nice :cool:
The Flying Eyeball is the icing on the cake for the cart :D
 
Good grief man, don't you ever sleep [ddd
:cool: The Henway turned out really nice :cool:
The Flying Eyeball is the icing on the cake for the cart :D

Thanks man
Lately I've just been wrapping up projects in the garage and around home 'cause we'll be going south for the winter at the end of October.
Here's a pic at the Radium show, about 900 cars turned out, the color looks so dark under cloudy skies...
 

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Thanks man
Lately I've just been wrapping up projects in the garage and around home 'cause we'll be going south for the winter at the end of October.
Here's a pic at the Radium show, about 900 cars turned out, the color looks so dark under cloudy skies...

It was great to see ZZ once again at Radium, and the Hennway looked spot on with the new adjustments to the fenders!
 
This may be a bit too close to edge of geekiness, but I'm looking for a way to add some realistic V8 engine sound maker to the cart. I haven't found a simple kit and I just don't have the electronic geek skill to invent a setup from scratch. I have found the Soundracer on fleabay, it plugs into a lighter socket and plays through an FM radio on your car speakers - but it uses a pickup mounted to a car alternator - which I don't have, being an electric cart....
Another possibility is a sound simulator for an RC toy car, but they are meant to plug into the RC motor and servos - I was thinking it could be upgraded for my cart but again, I'm up against the electrical unknown....
I do have a 12 Volt converter already on the cart, so adding a FM radio and speakers underneath is not too difficult and maybe some kind of sensor to the go pedal could solve that issue but how to produce the signal from the motor is beyond me.
I've seen videos of RC cars (various engine sounds, even shifting gear sounds) and one of an RC plane (German FW 190) - it really had an amazing radial engine sound right from burbling idle to full rev.
Any help or insight would be awesome :)
 

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I read a little on Soundracer... seems the "plug and play" device detects "noise" produced by an alternator, right through the lighter socket. (If I understand the info correctly.)

The simulator box seems fairly adaptable and takes its signal from a "hall effect" sensor... similar to a crank trigger ignition. In that instance, all you need is a rotating object and a place to glue 4 magnets in close proximity to the sensor... axle shaft, wheel hub, anything that spins relative to ground speed/RPM...

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