1933 chevy tudor sedan aka Project Copper Tone!

It actually does help to place the seats in the car on some boards or something. Helps figure out how far back to place them, where to put the pedals, and most importantly, place the steering wheel. The body is sitting where it's going to so I desperately need to build the body mounts. Then I'll haveta mount the pedals, followed by the master cylinder. Once I have that all done, I can pull the body off for the last time and run my brake lines. Then I can start doing the fun stuff like build front shock mounts, a panhard bar for the front, find a suitable radiator, and do all the wiring. The batteries gonna go under the passenger seat and ill be making a tilt up bracket for the seats along with removable panels to access the brake reservoir and the battery. Just seeing the body back on the frame makes me a happy camper and is putting my ass into gear on this thing. I really hope I'm finished by Father's Day weekend so I can make it to the show out in Missoula. I'll keep y'all updated as best I can. Until then, weld on. [[[

Nice. Looks fast sittin still.

Thanks bud. That's the plan. By the way, your reo seams to be coming along well. Could be lower yet. At least you don't have all the wood to screw around with.

Heck yea, how else ya gonna know how it's supposed to sound like when you get it done [ddd

Didn't really accomplish much today. Had to go pick my pup up from my friends and yesterday I didn't do squat either. Took the day off work to go see the new Hobbitt instead lol. Anyhow, got my very rear mounts made and tacked on until I can pull the body back off and weld them in fully. Ran outta argon again, again I need a bigger bottle lol, otherwise I prolly would have made the center mounts also. Once I get them all done, I'll make the forward mounts and mount the pedal assembly and the brake master cylinder, booster, and proportion inch valve. Then I can run all of my brake lines with the body off. Here's what the rear mounts look like.

Are those your body mounts? Can't tell, but do you have any rubber there? Somewhere between your frame and your butt you're going to want some vibration dampeners.

Right now, no. This is just for mock up until I get all of the mounts built. Once I get them built I will make my rubber pieces to go between the steel.

Welded in a couple more mounts today. Unfortunately, the doors don't close right anymore so I gotta pull em out and try again. Good thing I just tacked it in for now.

Best thing to do is just shim them, common practice on model a's.

Eh, I just redid the body mount in the front. Let it slide in to its natural position and door closes just fine. In other news, got my master cylinder and booster installed along with the bracket to hold the e-brake cables. Tomorrow I'm gonna go pick up another load of steel cause all the pieces I have are too short to mount my pedals. Along with needing to build a sub floor for the body. Anyhow, a couple of pictures.

Got my pedals put in and figured out a way to make the brake work. The clutch will be done the same way except I'm gonna have to make 2 pivot points opposite each other so that it will go from the clutch pedal over to the clutch fork. The brake linkage I will have to add another bearing block and bearing to on the other side so that it will keep the slack out. I checked to see that it would work and I am pleased to say that it works perfectly. Let me know if you see any issues.

You need to be careful with all thread
it tends to be soft and bend.
It would be all right to pull with but I wouldn't push with it.
Especially on the brakes.

The completely threaded piece is the pull portion. I wasn't sure if it would work or not when I picked the stuff up, sorta going on a hunch sorta thing. I think what I will do though is get some round stock and cut the threads into it. This made it easier than threading a piece of round stock to get my sizing correct. And I did notice as I was threading it into the clevises just how soft the threads were. My major concerns right now is the angle of the pull piece. It seams like it functions correctly but it's just such a harsh angle that I'm not sure I am completely happy with it.

How tall is your floor going to be with the booster right there?

I'm not sure how your pedal is but the angle if the rod is goofy, concept is there just need to refine the angles.

Looks like the booster will be behind the seat.

Personally, I wouldn't use that rod at all. I'd go with something much beefier, larger grade 8 adjuster bolt/nut, close tolerance double shear for the hinges, and no threads in the contact area of any pins.

You want to limit the chances for anything to loosen up by wear or accident damage. Even road kill kicked up under the car could bend that rod easy, if just for a moment, but long enough to lock your brakes and send you out of control. Overbuild it.

I agree with what the others have said, at minimum I would use stainless all thread and sleeve it.

I agree. I'll be adding some skid plates in front of my brake assembly as well for protection should anything make its way under the truck at speed...

I'm happy others are chiming in on the safety factor, definitely overbuild any/all of the controls on your rat for sure!

The floor will be mounted a little higher than most people would. There probably won't even be a floor on top of the booster but the seat will be and due to the padding in it, it has a nice hump to clear it all. Which is why I plan on making the seat to where it will tilt forward to access the MC. Just cause it's a rat doesn't mean that it shouldn't be comfortable and that's what I need. I'm kinda tall and I have really bad knees so the closer to 90 degrees for my legs, the better lol. I may redo some things but I dunno how I'd go about it off hand.

another 2 cents, Endicott, I like your idea of putting the master cylinder up there out of the way and easy to check and fill. You won't run out of fluid as often as I will, because you can just flip the seat up and check every once in a while. I, on the other hand, have to crawl under my grass scraping frame and get up between the exhaust pipe, the crossmembers, the frame and driveshaft and check the fluid levels by hand. You have some good safety ideas, there.
Now, the guys are right about most readyrod being annoyingly soft, but you can get better threaded rod if you hunt around. What about putting a pipe sleeve over your rod. If you wrap some tape around the rod, where each end of the pipe will be, then slide the pipe over and there will be no rattling or tinkling. In fact, the only sound will be your satisfied laughing.
Keep on tinkering.