66 Chevy C-10 build

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Once I got everything assembled and mocked up a friend of mine brought over this gadget that attaches to the hub and we knock the upper arms around until we have the cast and camber real close , I them marked the holes and drill them out
 

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Now that I have the front close to where I want it , I needed to level it off in the back . I have never done this before and had no guide except a picture from a "store bought" one on a website . I know I wanted to keep the back of the frame in the same position and because it was offset I had to scratch the head more than a couple of times . Because I could have used some information on how to do this I am going to post all of the steps I took in case it may help someone else .....
 

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Still a lot to do but I have a start....
 

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05 , yes they are uneven , if you look at the two trailing arms you will may be able to see that the one on the right is inside the frame and the left one has the frame resting on it . As soon as I figure where the rear needs to sit in relation to the driveshaft clearance I will square it all up and ad the shocks and airbags ...




Looking good. You're making nice progress!

I'm just curious, are the rear frame rails as twisted as they look in this pic, or is it an optical delusion?

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you will want to swap the rear tires side to side as you have the tread running backwards.

see how the front tires have the arrows that are formed by the tread facing forward on the top of each tire? and the rears are pointing to the rear?

those are directional tires.
 
you will want to swap the rear tires side to side as you have the tread running backwards.

see how the front tires have the arrows that are formed by the tread facing forward on the top of each tire? and the rears are pointing to the rear?

those are directional tires.

Blue .....what wrong about not knowing which direction I am going ??? Going to far is half the fun of not getting anywhere ...

Actually I need to pull the axils and turn the alignment stubs down to fit the opening on the wheels , and will switch tires then.

" alignment stubs " ???? Do those things that center up the wheels on the axils have a name ???

Oldog
 
Blue .....what wrong about not knowing which direction I am going ??? Going to far is half the fun of not getting anywhere ...

Actually I need to pull the axils and turn the alignment stubs down to fit the opening on the wheels , and will switch tires then.

" alignment stubs " ???? Do those things that center up the wheels on the axils have a name ???

Oldog

They have a name I can't think of for the life of me right now...
 
I took a look at the steering today , I was dreading it because I thought I was going to have to do a Rube Goldberg series of knuckles and bends .

It turns out with a little modification to the column mounts and some notching and hammer work it fit right down through the upper A arm... without any structural mods so the whole thing is as strong as factory

I also had this sweet old crank wheel of a cider press that I was able cut and form the center piece form the original steering wheel and epoxy it in the new [old] wheel . I use POR-15 Epoxy putty and have used it for a lot of stuff around the shop it is a little salty on price ..... does anyone use a less expensive alternative ??
http://www.por15.com/EPOXY-PUTTY_p_54.html

The wheel is a little heavy but will be alright
 

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cool ideas. you need to make absolutely sure nothing hits on the steering in full suspension travel. I'm sure you already checked this but I would hate to see anyone get hurt.
 
I've never used the POR-15 Epoxy, but I would be tentative on using it on something as critical as a steering wheel unless I was absolutely 150% sure it was up to the task. No offense, I just would be a little concerned about safety considering how much it gets used, how much force it needs to be able to take.

Looking good!
 
I've never used the POR-15 Epoxy, but I would be tentative on using it on something as critical as a steering wheel unless I was absolutely 150% sure it was up to the task. No offense, I just would be a little concerned about safety considering how much it gets used, how much force it needs to be able to take.

Looking good!

05 .... The only purpose for the epoxy is to hold the piece centered in the wheel. the wheel had a conical center much like a ball joint would fit only it was squared . I put the narrow end down so it would act as wedge ifyou tried to pull it off .. the harder the pull the tighter it gets . I also have a big washer and a nut holding it down .

The POR-15 is very strong stuff , stays slightly flexible , and will not crack , the NASCAR guys use it and that's how I heard about it.

Oldog
 
05 .... The only purpose for the epoxy is to hold the piece centered in the wheel. the wheel had a conical center much like a ball joint would fit only it was squared . I put the narrow end down so it would act as wedge ifyou tried to pull it off .. the harder the pull the tighter it gets . I also have a big washer and a nut holding it down .

The POR-15 is very strong stuff , stays slightly flexible , and will not crack , the NASCAR guys use it and that's how I heard about it.

Oldog

Cool, thanks for the info!
 
Ok , after a couple of weeks on my arse with the flu I got back out in the shop this week . I got the steering wheel on and stared on the tire rubbing the body situation ...
 

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each tire would rub against the firewall when I turned left or right individually ........... I got everything lined up and figured I could cut the little tit part that was coming out of the front of the fire wall .... add a plate and move on ....
 

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I put the tires back on and .......OPPS...... looks like a bigger chunk needs to come out , at least it is not structural ...
 

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Good looking build Odd..
If the snow banks ever get low enough to see around I will have to make a trip to your shop for a visit.
Torchie.
 

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