Making paint shiny

Ok, might be a bit off topic for a site that generally deals with flat, satin, and worn out paint finishes. But...has anyone buffed, or color sanded and buffed paint like Tremclad, Rustolium, or Rustcoat. Most sprayed finishes with this paint will have some shine and luster, but has anyone tried for a mirror finish? Paint cost is the driving force for the question, auto paint at 5 or 6 times the cost (or more and still having to cut and buff) is great if you want to get all spendy about it. I have a couple of projects that could use some shine without the expense. I'm going to give a couple of test panels a go just to see, but at the same time, how did you make out?

Have you tried www.paintforcars.com or www.tcpglobal.com ? Both have some good prices on real automotive paints. I've used the stuff from paintforcars before, limited color choices, but great prices.

We used to paint with rustoleum and then sand and buff back when I was young. Did all kinds of stuff like our Schwinns and red wagons. We thought that we were customizers. It can be done.

Many threads on many sites talk about the pros and cons of this type of paint being used for autos. That's your choice.

The biggest issue with using these products is the fact that they don't use added hardener's. That is one of the reasons that eventually they get chalky looking. You need to let them dry a long time,Plus they tend to gum up sand paper real quick. And they are not as sprayer friendly. Tend to run very easily. And we won't even get into what you have to do if you want to shoot Automotive paint over the top of it at a later time.
You can add a hardener to them. I believe that Valspar makes one as well as something called "Japanese Hardner" that you can buy at most paint stores. Just make sure that it is compatible with OIL based enamel.

Truthfully to get a "mirror shine" as you call it is just as much about the prep work as it is about the finish spray, So your cost there will be the same regardless.

If you are not really hung up about the color I have gotten some great deals on paint that was mixed incorrectly or that people didn't like once mixed from my paint store. The roof color on this Chevy is an example of that. About $10 for a gallon because some one screwed up mixing it. And by the way this was single stage enamel with out a cut and a buff.
Torchie.

You might look into how model car builders polish enamel paints. Honestly though you'd be money ahead using a lacquer paint and clear, like duplicolor. I think you'd get a better shine and it'd last longer. You could also look into epoxy type paints or I'm sure there's some cheaper 2k urethane paints out there.

Also, a lot of paints are based on what color you choose. Typically red is more expensive than others. Try the Duplicolor single stage and take your time, or simply tell your paint store what your budget is ,and let them suggest a decent base/clear combo. I do custom paint and airbrush art work, and let me tell you, I would rather have my ass whipped by a tree full of monkeys than cut and polish a whole car. I used the high end clears , and still hated all the sanding . I started with 800 ,and graduated all the way down to 3000 grit paper. The 3000 will almost start to shine the clear . Preparation and a clean surface, along with good dry air, and clean dust free environment will help make your paint lay on a lot better.

Thanks for the replies gentlemen, I know where your coming from with the gentle push toward a better grade of paint and somewhat guarantied outcome. But this is more of an experiment than anything. If I can make it work, great. If turns out to be a big bust....well, I guess that's what it is. Either way I'll know for sure. I did a test panel earlier today, I'll let it sit for a few days to cure. Didn't use any hardener or additives of any sort, just the straight paint. Might stay a bit gummy because of it, but that's part of the 'lets see what happens' mode. If it's a no go, I'll give it another test with hardener and see where that takes me. I'll let you know what I find out. Might be alright, or it might be a lesson on what not to do.

Sniper said:

Thanks for the replies gentlemen, I know where your coming from with the gentle push toward a better grade of paint and somewhat guarantied outcome. But this is more of an experiment than anything. If I can make it work, great. If turns out to be a big bust....well, I guess that's what it is. Either way I'll know for sure. I did a test panel earlier today, I'll let it sit for a few days to cure. Didn't use any hardener or additives of any sort, just the straight paint. Might stay a bit gummy because of it, but that's part of the 'lets see what happens' mode. If it's a no go, I'll give it another test with hardener and see where that takes me. I'll let you know what I find out. Might be alright, or it might be a lesson on what not to do.

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One thing I have done before . Use the paint that Tractor Supply sells, use plenty of hardner, and cut the paint using acetone and not lacquer thinner. It will allow you to be able to shoot the paint through a cheapie gun, and put a few light coats on without it shrinking too fast. Give it a try. I painted a scissor lift here at the shop for a customer .when I delivered it to him he said it look like a car finish, and it did. I used that process to paint it. You could see your reflection in the paint. Total cost: $35, smiles : priceless!

I've done the same as blacksheep,
I used Matrix wet look hardener, implement paint, thinned and sprayed it, with good success.