rust buster

I am just throwing this out there for people. My father told me the other day he saw a testing on the the best penetrating lube. They compared all the name brands and some home made versions. The One that did the best was a homemade brew. I guess they put Acetone and Trans fluid in a spray bottle and it blew them all out the water(not literally). I do not know the ratio, but my dad said it was amazing. Can you even believe how cheap it would be to make your own rust buster! If anyone has heard of this I woould like to hear from ya![cl

The only problem with Acetone is it highly Flammable and a major health issue.

Here part of the MSDS on Acetone.

ACETONE


3. Hazards Identification

Emergency Overview
--------------------------
DANGER! EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE LIQUID AND VAPOR. VAPOR MAY CAUSE FLASH FIRE. HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED OR INHALED. CAUSES IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES AND RESPIRATORY TRACT. AFFECTS CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM.


Health Rating: 2 - Moderate
Flammability Rating: 3 - Severe (Flammable)
Reactivity Rating: 0 - None
Contact Rating: 3 - Severe
Lab Protective Equip: GOGGLES & SHIELD; LAB COAT & APRON; VENT HOOD; PROPER GLOVES; CLASS B EXTINGUISHER
Storage Color Code: Red (Flammable)


Potential Health Effects
----------------------------------

Inhalation:
Inhalation of vapors irritates the respiratory tract. May cause coughing, dizziness, dullness, and headache. Higher concentrations can produce central nervous system depression, narcosis, and unconsciousness.
Ingestion:
Swallowing small amounts is not likely to produce harmful effects. Ingestion of larger amounts may produce abdominal pain, nausea and vomiting. Aspiration into lungs can produce severe lung damage and is a medical emergency. Other symptoms are expected to parallel inhalation.
Skin Contact:
Irritating due to defatting action on skin. Causes redness, pain, drying and cracking of the skin.
Eye Contact:
Vapors are irritating to the eyes. Splashes may cause severe irritation, with stinging, tearing, redness and pain.
Chronic Exposure:
Prolonged or repeated skin contact may produce severe irritation or dermatitis.
Aggravation of Pre-existing Conditions:
Use of alcoholic beverages enhances toxic effects. Exposure may increase the toxic potential of chlorinated hydrocarbons, such as chloroform, trichloroethane.

4. First Aid Measures

Inhalation:
Remove to fresh air. If not breathing, give artificial respiration. If breathing is difficult, give oxygen. Get medical attention.
Ingestion:
Aspiration hazard. If swallowed, vomiting may occur spontaneously, but DO NOT INDUCE. If vomiting occurs, keep head below hips to prevent aspiration into lungs. Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person. Call a physician immediately.
Skin Contact:
Immediately flush skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Remove contaminated clothing and shoes. Get medical attention. Wash clothing before reuse. Thoroughly clean shoes before reuse.
Eye Contact:
Immediately flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes, lifting upper and lower eyelids occasionally. Get medical attention.

5. Fire Fighting Measures

Fire:
Flash point: -20C (-4F) CC
Autoignition temperature: 465C (869F)
Flammable limits in air % by volume:
lel: 2.5; uel: 12.8
Extremely Flammable Liquid and Vapor! Vapor may cause flash fire.
Explosion:
Above flash point, vapor-air mixtures are explosive within flammable limits noted above. Vapors can flow along surfaces to distant ignition source and flash back. Contact with strong oxidizers may cause fire. Sealed containers may rupture when heated. This material may produce a floating fire hazard. Sensitive to static discharge.
Fire Extinguishing Media:
Dry chemical, alcohol foam or carbon dioxide. Water may be ineffective. Water spray may be used to keep fire exposed containers cool, dilute spills to nonflammable mixtures, protect personnel attempting to stop leak and disperse vapors.
Special Information:
In the event of a fire, wear full protective clothing and NIOSH-approved self-contained breathing apparatus with full facepiece operated in the pressure demand or other positive pressure mode.

6. Accidental Release Measures

Ventilate area of leak or spill. Remove all sources of ignition. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment as specified in Section 8. Isolate hazard area. Keep unnecessary and unprotected personnel from entering. Contain and recover liquid when possible. Use non-sparking tools and equipment. Collect liquid in an appropriate container or absorb with an inert material (e. g., vermiculite, dry sand, earth), and place in a chemical waste container. Do not use combustible materials, such as saw dust. Do not flush to sewer! If a leak or spill has not ignited, use water spray to disperse the vapors, to protect personnel attempting to stop leak, and to flush spills away from exposures. US Regulations (CERCLA) require reporting spills and releases to soil, water and air in excess of reportable quantities. The toll free number for the US Coast Guard National Response Center is (800) 424-8802.

7. Handling and Storage

Protect against physical damage. Store in a cool, dry well-ventilated location, away from any area where the fire hazard may be acute. Outside or detached storage is preferred. Separate from incompatibles. Containers should be bonded and grounded for transfers to avoid static sparks. Storage and use areas should be No Smoking areas. Use non-sparking type tools and equipment, including explosion proof ventilation. Containers of this material may be hazardous when empty since they retain product residues (vapors, liquid); observe all warnings and precautions listed for the product.

8. Exposure Controls/Personal Protection

Airborne Exposure Limits:
Acetone:
-OSHA Permissible Exposure Limit (PEL): 1000 ppm (TWA)
-ACGIH Threshold Limit Value (TLV): 500 ppm (TWA),
750 ppm (STEL) A4 - not classifiable as a human carcinogen
Ventilation System:
A system of local and/or general exhaust is recommended to keep employee exposures below the Airborne Exposure Limits. Local exhaust ventilation is generally preferred because it can control the emissions of the contaminant at its source, preventing dispersion of it into the general work area. Please refer to the ACGIH document, Industrial Ventilation, A Manual of Recommended Practices, most recent edition, for details.
Personal Respirators (NIOSH Approved):
If the exposure limit is exceeded and engineering controls are not feasible, a half-face organic vapor respirator may be worn for up to ten times the exposure limit, or the maximum use concentration specified by the appropriate regulatory agency or respirator supplier, whichever is lowest. A full-face piece organic vapor respirator may be worn up to 50 times the exposure limit, or the maximum use concentration specified by the appropriate regulatory agency or respirator supplier, whichever is lowest. For emergencies or instances where the exposure levels are not known, use a full-face piece positive-pressure, air-supplied respirator. WARNING: Air-purifying respirators do not protect workers in oxygen-deficient atmospheres.
Skin Protection:
Wear impervious protective clothing, including boots, gloves, lab coat, apron or coveralls, as appropriate, to prevent skin contact.
Eye Protection:
Use chemical safety goggles and/or a full face shield where splashing is possible. Maintain eye wash fountain and quick-drench facilities in work area.


10. Stability and Reactivity

Stability:
Stable under ordinary conditions of use and storage.
Hazardous Decomposition Products:
Carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide may form when heated to decomposition.
Hazardous Polymerization:
Will not occur.
Incompatibilities:
Concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid mixtures, oxidizing materials, chloroform, alkalis, chlorine compounds, acids, potassium t-butoxide.
Conditions to Avoid:
Heat, flames, ignition sources and incompatibles.

11. Toxicological Information


Oral rat LD50: 5800 mg/kg; Inhalation rat LC50: 50,100mg/m3; Irritation eye rabbit, Standard Draize, 20 mg severe; investigated as a tumorigen, mutagen, reproductive effector.

--------\Cancer Lists\------------------------------------------------------

12. Ecological Information

Environmental Fate:
When released into the soil, this material is expected to readily biodegrade. When released into the soil, this material is expected to leach into groundwater. When released into the soil, this material is expected to quickly evaporate. When released into water, this material is expected to readily biodegrade. When released to water, this material is expected to quickly evaporate. This material has a log octanol-water partition coefficient of less than 3.0. This material is not expected to significantly bioaccumulate. When released into the air, this material may be moderately degraded by reaction with photochemically produced hydroxyl radicals. When released into the air, this material may be moderately degraded by photolysis. When released into the air, this material is expected to be readily removed from the atmosphere by wet deposition.
Environmental Toxicity:
This material is not expected to be toxic to aquatic life. The LC50/96-hour values for fish are over 100 mg/l.

13. Disposal Considerations

Whatever cannot be saved for recovery or recycling should be handled as hazardous waste and sent to a RCRA approved incinerator or disposed in a RCRA approved waste facility. Processing, use or contamination of this product may change the waste management options. State and local disposal regulations may differ from federal disposal regulations. Dispose of container and unused contents in accordance with federal, state and local requirements.

being a retired Fire Official and working with Hazardous materials

My opinion is putting it in a spray bottle and spraying it around is not a good idea. Using it were you can drop it on the part and not spraying into the air would be better.

If your garage is attach to the house you could give your whole family a cheap high.

I heard it works good for freeing up a stock motor. Pour it in the spark plug holes and let it sit.

gee, sounds like any other penetrating lube. toxic and flammable.

Acetone is nasty stuff, full strength. I'm sure it does work well, but the fire hazard, storage hazard, and health hazard of having pure acetone around ain't worth it to me! Even nail polish remover is pretty bad at 5% or whatever it's dilution is.

I had to do a disposal of 4 gal. of that stuff once. It doesn't take much to make you wish you hadn't inhaled it. It's like a drunk without any of the good parts.

If you spray any paint in the shop you are using some nasty chemicals. I use the acetone and trans fluid to clean my guns and free up rusty stuff. As with any other flamable use in a well ventilated area and no smoking or sparks.

I've been using it as well. I mix it 50/50. Lets face it most of the chemicals we use are toxic. Some common sense should prevail here. I buy the acetone at home depot in quart cans. I don't mix up large batches. I use a spray bottle that once housed penetrating oil, and I've relabled it acetone/trans fluid.

I believe the original recipe calls for power steering fluid (pretty similar to ATF).

i use it works really good

I read this on MM site.


My personal mix is 50% ATF and 50% Naptha (Lighter Fluid). The Naptha mixes with the ATF and evaporates slower. But by not separating from the ATF and evaporating slower, it thins the ATF out much more, allowing it to creep deeper.

What do you think about this mix?

Being a Newbie

I am just curious as to why anyone would want to make their own Penetrating lube with so many fairly cheap one's on the market? PB blaster works pretty well and is not to pricy, and Kroil is alway good to keep around for those really tough jobs...a bit pricy but not out of sight.... usually have some deals on line.... then there is the trusty hot wrench method.... usually works the best and isn't messy..... Just curious as to the reason other than to try something / make something etc. etc.... gotta believe the price of acetone or naptha in quarts or gallons and a quart of TF is getting near the price of a spray can of PB Blaster if not more..... I get a gallon of PB for about 11 bucks... am I missing something here??

Or you can just use vingar.... you can buy a 5 liter jug for unfer 5 bucks

hummmm!

Never tried Vinegar.... other than in my salad with oil... or on a sunburn..... seriously, what is the principal of using vinegar..... gotta admit, you go me on this one..... or are you pulling our/my leg??? You know it's not nice to mess with us old guys....

Im a youngin and would love to mess with some of you old farts[ddev

Just kidding lol

The actic acids in vinigar will eat rust... I never believed it until i tired it on some old parts i had lying around. I was told you need to wipe it off with thinner after or something because it will leave a residue in order for paint to stick

Have you seen this stuff before?

I say, "use what you got...do what you know"

I use a product called Bluecreeper, formally known as Rust Reaper. It is a synthetic lubricating and penetrating oil that is also a good rust inhibitor. It has more uses than most of us can count, and it comes in various sized bottles, including a one oz. precision oiler with a needle nose applicator...put it where you need it, not where you don't.

I no longer use PB or WD-40...and I can't seem to keep a bottle long enough to empty it, before someone I know wants to try it out for themselves

New believers are being won-over everyday!

Who knows, you might find Bluecreeper in your local Ace Harware Store some day in the near future.

Go Blue!

Bluecreeper.com
"Gets Stuff Moving"

Rooster

Using anything "in moderation" is only COMMON SENSE !

Some people just don't seem to understand just what that means either ;(

I too, use the 50/50 mix. I buy the Acetone in quart cans and use only enough to fill a small sized "tip up" oil can, along with equal amounts of Automatic Tranny Fluid.

IT WORKS AND WORKS WELL in all cases that I tried it.

I never hear of that "Blue Stuff" and neither has anyone in my local Ace Hardware Store.........

I think I smoked some blue creeper back in the 70's. LOL

I think i saw some "blue Creepers" back in the 70's...

old man dave said:

I think I smoked some blue creeper back in the 70's. LOL

Click to expand...

was during a new year eve party......still don't know what they put in the punch....[S LOL..

patina said:

The actic acids in vinigar will eat rust... I never believed it until i tired it on some old parts i had lying around. I was told you need to wipe it off with thinner after or something because it will leave a residue in order for paint to stick

Click to expand...

You can rinse with water to neutralize the acid, but then make sure you dry it off so it doesn't rust. I usually hit it with a quick blast of brake cleaner to dry the hard to reach spots. You can also use vinegar to strip galvanizing and plating on nuts and bolts. Heavy rust will require a but of elbow grease and a wire brush to get the thick stuff off though.

Oh yeah....rust buster....

Sorry Ppete.....had a flashback!!!!!!

I'll second the vinegar. I had a house that was flooded by super storm sandy, and by the time I was allowed back into the house a number of tools had sat in a salty brine for a few months. I seemed to recall that vinegar would remove rust, so I went to the dollar store and bought a gallon of white vinegar. I submerged the parts and after a week or so the goo, gunk and grunge was gone. A bit of advise would be to monitor the metal every few days.