How I built a fiberglass body in 1800 easy steps.

Ok guys, as promised here is the begining of my thread on how I'm building a fiberglass race car body shell. This car is called a P15 Shrike. From my research I've found they where built in Austrailia and are still quite popular on the vintage racing scene. Originally built with a Ford Pinto engine mounted mid ship. Most of the guys running this class of car are upgrading them with high output motorcyle engines such as the Hyabusa. With this car will eventually recieve one as well.

The main reason my customer wants this done is two fold. Apparently there are no molds available for this body anymore, and he wants changes made so he can service the car as a one man pit crew. I'll explain that part of it in more detail later in the post.

So this is what I'm starting off with. The original shell of the car. The idea is to turn these (front and back halves) into a pair of plugs from which I can make the molds from and then pull my parts.
What you see here is the rear half in the forground and the front half facing us in the background.

First order of business is to deburr the body shell. By this I mean that all the attachment hardward must be removed from the shell. Then a wood mounting frame was built to attach the shell on to stabilize it. In these pics you can see the basic frame. There was more added to the interior to keep it square and also some sections added on the lower edges to match the contour on the lower body panels. Once it all fit nicely the shell was glued on with Urithane windshield adhesive.

The nose reminds me of a vintage TIGA racecar I restored a few years back at a shop I worked at.

Generic INTERNET photo below of a TIGA

It was then time to repair any damaged areas and close in any holes that had been cut into it for various reasons. I used regular 1.5 oz fiberglass mat and epoxy resin to close in the larger holes. Then Kitty Hair (fiberglass reinforced filler) to backfill the holes.

Fox Fabrication said:

The nose reminds me of a vintage TIGA racecar I restored a few years back at a shop I worked at.

Generic INTERNET photo below of a TIGA

Click to expand...

Yes, I believe this car runs in the same class.

Once all the body work was completed it was time for a good coat of PPG primer filler.

Ok so now it's on to doing the same with the front half.

Again, all the holes and vents needed to be closed up and body work done. the fron to the nose needs to be glassed up the extend it back down to be level with the side panels. After years of scuffing some of it had disappeared.

Then I moved on to building the flang at the rear of the front half which will be used as an attachment point for the rear half of the body. I also closed in the cockpit area. Although I didn't get a picture of it I used the same pink foam to close that in as well.

Once I had the flang and cockpit area glassed in and the body work finished it was all primed and ready for final sanding before paint.

Here it's in the booth ready for paint, and then finished in paint.

These are now the completed "Plugs" for making the "Molds". At this point it will all be water sanded and polished. Then prior to laying up the molds they will be given at least 12-15 coats of parting wax. I also have to make up the parting flanges for the molds at this point. The rear section is going to be a three piece mold and the front will be a four peace. In this last pic for now, I've been laying out some thoughts with tape for where the partings in the mold might go. It has changed since this pic because I want to make it possible for the customer to remove one corner of the shell at a time so he can service the suspension and check tire pressure. If your wondering now why that is, it's because these body run with no wheel opening. Strange yes, but very good for ground effect.

Opps, forgot the pic.

How about for the front half you part it at the cocpit hump and then split it right down the center of the "hood" area. (see attached picture and shakey lines I drew lol!)

This way total of 3 panels for the front: CENTER, RIGHT, LEFT. allows full right and left side access and should also allow better access to the pedals that always seem to need to be adjusted! (just a guess as it is hard to determin without a chassis their). Think it would give it a much cleaner/sleeker look than cutting across the bonnet...but you know the customer better than me!

As for the rear...not sure how the chassis is set-up...but could it remain as a once piece section and just be hinged to flip back??


Where you guys out of?

That's a good idea Fox, thanks for your suggestion. unfortunately because of how the chassis is built that's not able to work out. Part of the issue is where the new side vents are and how they will mount. I will illustrate this better in later posts as I get there. Right now I'm convelesing at home with a broken ankle I managed to inflick on myself 10 days ago so updates are gonna be slowed a bit.

The rear section is simple in that the panels will separate lengthwise across the top of the hump above the wheels.

My shop is based in Kitchener Ontario Canada.

Wow Roddguy, That's beautiful!!! The finish looks like a mirror and I'm sure the picture can't do justice to it at all......Great job....Pat yourself on the back!...CR

Outstanding work as usual roddguy1.....and only 1800 steps this time

A few days ago I sent a private message to roddguy1 asking about how to cut doors in a fiberglass body. He took the time to describe in detail how best to accomplish this.

I wanted to say "thanks" is a way that everyone on RRR would be aware of his generosity.

Very kool Mr. Roddude!!! Looks beautiful... can't wait to see da rest!

BoB

Alright I've been keeping you guys waiting on updates long enough. Sorry about that guys it's been a very hectic couple of months for me here. First it was a broken ankle and then a shop move. Yup while still on a broken ankle to boot. Here is a couple pics of the new digs.