1934 Plymouth five window

Sweet

I would have to drop that around the frame, and just a mild 2" off the top. but that's just me, can't help my self.

Good choice on engines !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [cl [P [P [P [P

These Dodge/Plymouth coupes look WAY better unchopped, as they already look chopped anyways. This is going to be a sweet project, nice find!

Mac, here's a pic of my dad's 33 Dodge I mentioned before. It's an American car that's a bit of a survivor as it was rodded in the late 60's or early 70's and has only been updated for drive-ability, otherwise it's as it was done back then. 302 Ford, C4, Dodge rear. Still the stock straight axle and the paint from the 70's (more aged than it looks in this pic). This is a rumble seat car. It's a really fun car to drive.

It may not seem like it but it should actually be a bit longer than yours. While the cars looked the same, there were different wheelbases, and the Dodges were longer.

Soltz, I have a number of FE's if that's what you mean by big block. The younger guys call the 429-460's big blocks, and disregard the FE's. I have a stripped down 360 in the shop, and that's the worst of the FE's. There are two 410 FE's, [a 390 with a 428 crankshaft], one burnt badly and one with a valve seat insert broken out and piston mushroomed. The 410s were a good spirited motor.
Back to the '34 Plymouth, I hung some more little things on the motor, like the oil filter cover, the thermostat housing and I made an oil filler spout. It's hanging, drying and in primer. I did quite a bit of Imagineering on the generator placement, as I don't like where it is sticking out beyond the tappet cover.
Snopro, Thanks for the pic of your Dads car. I remember it from some background snaps of your GMC build. I was thinking of having chocolate brown fenders and aprons but the top, Chryslers copper.

Sounds like you're making good progress on the motor, I can't wait till you start making progress on the car itself!

The colour combo you have in mind sounds cool. We've found pictures of some champagne/white and it looks cool as well.

My oil filler tube is done, primed, painted and installed. Instead of making a complete draft tube I decided to go with positive ventilation, so the PVC valve is installed in the old draft tube hole. A couple of years ago, I bought a good sized cardboard box full of Chrysler N.O.S. parts from a guy and they are coming in handy now. The fuel pump, oil filler breather cap, the PVC valve, and
thermostat all came out of that box.
Yesterday, I took a flathead six Chrysler to a friends house and we ground the valves and seats.
I did something weird today. I peened a gasket/template on the back of this baby Hemi and hung it on the wall. When I get my wide block 318 away from its transmission I will see if the bellhousings will interchange.

Unless you're planning on the generator for old timey looks, I think I'd lose it in favor of a GM alternator. It would be shorter, so you could get it closer in to the motor, and as a plus, work better, too.

Well Bama, [S I've been giving that some thought, not the part where I jam a Chev part on there but maybe an alternator of some sort. It would fit a way better, but it doesn't have the old timey look.
I'm not done Imagineering this yet. [

Keck use one of those alternators that look like a generator

Maybe a MoPar alternator then? I was just thinking in simplicity of wiring...

Sheesh, Bama, you made me throw up a bit, but it's O.K. now, I got it cleaned up.
Today I tried a few Chrysler alternators on there and they fit in a way closer. Neither one that was on the shelf had the right pulley, though. I'll have to pull one off of a car, I guess.

I struggled away today putting the oil pan and pump on right. I started second guessing myself that the oil pump went on too easily so I turned the motor up-side-down and pulled the pan off and the pump. The pan had only been mocked up and used as an engine stand, but the pump had been in right, the drive shaft had been in its slot. I just hadn't believed that I could be that lucky and just slide the pump up in there and have it timed right. Anyhow, when I turned the motor up-side-down and took the pump off to look in the hole the drive slot was three inches too far away. I immediately cursed out almost everyone. It turns out that when you turn the motor up-side-down the drive gear and shaft slides out the distributor hole and won't drive the oil pump until you turn the motor over again. So after that the pan went on like it should have. Then I finished up making the transmission adapter and reconfigured a dust cover for the bottom of the bellhousing. Now the bellhousing is on and then the flywheel went on. That sounds a little bit backwards but that how it has to be done on old Chryslers.

That is a little scary on the oil pump drive, so is it just gravity then that holds it in place?

Oh no Dirtyrat, the distributer shaft fits into a slotted notch in the centre of the drive gear and the distributer clamp holds it all down. That's if you leave the distributer in there when you turn the engine up-side-down. I thought to save the distributer and took it back out while I was wrestling the engine on the crane and engine stand. So, I'm mostly to blame for my misfortunes. This could be the truth more often than not.

Fair enough, now I understand =)

I actually don't like the way that Chrysler bolts their bell housing on. The bellhousing has to go on first, and then you can wrestle with the flywheel placement, and putting on the flywheel nuts on between the back of the motor and the front of the flywheel, is a horrible job. Now, you get to fish the clutch up in the bellhousing and line the friction disc up while starting some perimeter bolts, all this through the hole in the bottom of the bell. After this the through shaft and throw-out bearing went in there surprisingly easy.
A friend of mine has a machine shop, so he made me a centering ring [pic one] and some of my transmission adapter, while I made the rest [pic two]. My adapter is a bit unique, a bit red neck, a bit overbuilt, and tougher than nails.
Anyhow, the transmission bolts onto the motor nicely and is there tonight. [pics three and four].

Nice job on mounting the tranny to the Hemi [cl
The centering ring is the key to having the tranny indexed to the crank. Doesn't take much misalignment to make a tranny jump out of gear, running down the highway

Looks like it was supposed to be attached to the hemi, nice work!

Thanks guys. The two things I forgot to say were; that's an A833 NP four speed that doesn't usually go on the back of an old Hemi, but can be made to work, and, the centering ring is the key to keeping your input shaft lined up with the crankshaft, but Old Iron reminded me. Just for a chuckle, the flywheel is from a Massey-Harris combine and the clutch release bearing through shaft is from a M-H 30 tractor. Keep on tinkering.

MercuryMac said:

Thanks guys. The two things I forgot to say were; that's an A833 NP four speed that doesn't usually go on the back of an old Hemi, but can be made to work, and, the centering ring is the key to keeping your input shaft lined up with the crankshaft, but Old Iron reminded me. Just for a chuckle, the flywheel is from a Massey-Harris combine and the clutch release bearing through shaft is from a M-H 30 tractor. Keep on tinkering.

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