seized cotter pins

Hello All,
Before I try removing more cotter pins, does anyone have any Tech Tips on how to removed seized cotter pins?

I'm removing the ball joints and the cotter pin broke off inside the peripheral of the castle nut. I've tried penetrating lubricant, but I haven't tried heat. I've also tried pushing (with hammer and screw driver) the pin out with no avail. I will probably have to cut the nut off to get to the pin. I'm not ready to replace the ball joints since I'm still mocking up the build.

So before I get to the other pins, I would like to know if there is anything I should keep in mind while prepping for the next pin removal.

Thank you,

Louie

Over the years, seems like I have tried all kinds of tricks. Depending on what yours look like at this point, these may or may not work. I have used a center punch through the loop end of the pin. If you get half of it out, the rest will follow. It takes a little skill, but I have used a torch, and taken both ends off, removed the nut, then driven out the pin. Just getting vice grips on one end of the other can get you along ways.

Best trick I have found is spray it down and use a pair of vice grips. Get on the bulb end and roll it like your pulling a nail out of a board.If it breaks off just clean it up enough to get your wrench on the nut and shear the rest as you take the nut off, If you need to save it then use a punch to clean the hole after the nut is out of the way.

As long as the nut is still on, drill it.

Todd said:

As long as the nut is still on, drill it.

Click to expand...

This...cotter pin is usually soft enough to spin out easily.

Thank you for the feedback.

I'll probably try drilling as a last resort. I seem to break more bits this way, because of the smaller diameter, and then end up having 3 items (2 legs of the pin) stuck in the hole and one less bit.

Louie said:

I seem to break more bits this way, because of the smaller diameter,

Click to expand...

I find that's when I'm pushing too hard and not letting the drill and bit do the work.

Just turn the nut off, it will shear the cotter pin....The ball joint or whatever has the rest of the pin in it gets replaced anyways.

If you are not going to use the nut or the ball joint again, as in replacing the ball joints. Just cut the cotter pin best you can and take the nut off with an impact. The nut will come off shearing the cotter pin, but the nut won't be useable as it will mess up the threads. Flat rate mechanic stuff.

Stroker McGurk said:

Just turn the nut off, it will shear the cotter pin....The ball joint or whatever has the rest of the pin in it gets replaced anyways.

Click to expand...

Bingo. Put the impact on it and spin it off. No problem...

Yup. Some part you don't have to be nice too.

I usually use a punch to drive it out if it breaks off and I need to reuse the part.

Louie;414867 [B said:

I've tried penetrating lubricant,[/B]

Thank you,

Louie

Click to expand...

Louie , I know people swear by acetone and transmission fluid , so did I until a friend told me about KROIL lube .

The Sh*t isn't cheap but I bought a can about a year ago and still have plenty left { about $25-30 a can } and keep it hidden in the shop

I can not tell you how good this stuff works and no I have no financial interest in the stuff in any way

Oldog

Thanks again!

I was able to remove all the cotter pins while using everyone's recommendations. The majority of the cotter pins I have removed on the truck, and since the original post, were done so with a drill (after the pin broke).

OddRods - Thank you for the recommendation. I will check that stuff out at the local auto parts store.