1951 Ford

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clcutlass

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Messages
51
Hi..New to this form but used a forum to help me do a oldsmobile restoration. Spent a lot of time getting it to look nice on overpriced parts.

Now I want to build something that cool and hopefully not break the bank.

I picked up a 51 ford.....I was thinking a fenderless chopped roof but rules around here a strict with fenders at least until you get them certified for the road.

What can anyone tell me about this truck...The guy I brought it off never mentioned anything about it but when I got it home and looked at the plate it seems to be a ex US military truck.

There use to be a US military base close by in Argentia NL Canada.

Maybe a military theme rat rod ??
 

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I won't be any help on it's being a military vehicle or not but, just wanted to say it looks like a good start.
 
From what I read on the data tag, it was a 1.5 ton stake bed used by the US Air Force. It had a V8. Tires were probably 9:00 x 20" with the 60lb inflation. Other than that, can't tell much. Was probably used on base as a general delivery truck. I think most Air Force vehicles were dark blue.
 
From what I read on the data tag, it was a 1.5 ton stake bed used by the US Air Force. It had a V8. Tires were probably 9:00 x 20" with the 60lb inflation. Other than that, can't tell much. Was probably used on base as a general delivery truck. I think most Air Force vehicles were dark blue.

Took a look this evening and yes it is a blue ...tks
 
Well. I guess I officially started my project tonight. I just started to hammer out some of the dents in the cab and took apart the front clip.

I decided to by a chassis c/w axle and rear end from a 51 f1, I don't have the chassis yet.

Pics to follow.
 
i picked up that chassis last night,,,got it cheaper than listed, It is in really good shape.

Any links to a build where the oem frame was cut/shortened
 

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Wow, Real nice starting point. What are your plans?

A rat rod tribute with a stake body. I am going to trim the front grill and add a couple extra teeth.

I would like to upgrade the brakes to disc if I can. I plan on a 3 inch chop and may start with just leaving the rust and no paint. I would like a clean looking chassis and suspension.

I picked up a beer keg for a gas tank
 
do you have to cut/z the frame or can you just channel the cab ? Sorry this is totally new for me.

Don't apologize. :D
They both appear to me to have a Z'd frame. The first one may be Z'd in the front and the rear based on how much of the driver you can see thru the side window. If it was just channeled that much to get it so low you would have to be very short to drive it.
The second one looks like it just has a Z in the rear.

My truck has been channeled 6' inches which is the amount that it took to cover the frame. I then lowered it another 2 inches thru the use of longer shackles.
There pics show my current ride height with and without the running boards.
Too deep of a channel makes it extremely uncomfortable to drive which is why most go with a Z or double Z to get it low.
Torchie
 

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Don't apologize. :D
They both appear to me to have a Z'd frame. The first one may be Z'd in the front and the rear based on how much of the driver you can see thru the side window. If it was just channeled that much to get it so low you would have to be very short to drive it.
The second one looks like it just has a Z in the rear.

My truck has been channeled 6' inches which is the amount that it took to cover the frame. I then lowered it another 2 inches thru the use of longer shackles.
There pics show my current ride height with and without the running boards.
Too deep of a channel makes it extremely uncomfortable to drive which is why most go with a Z or double Z to get it low.
Torchie

Thanks Torchie.....this is a good explanation. I went thru your builds for hours a couple of nights ago..great info.

One of hot rods preachers builds have me some ideas as well....going to be a combination of a few :)
 
Lots of great F series truck builds on here. Of all of them I most likely did the least amount of frame mods as I used a stock 1941 Ford car frame for my platform.
You can always post any Frame questions in the frame and suspension thread. Some one had one on there yesterday about Z'ing a frame.
I'm amazed that it only took you a couple of hours to go thru my build. If I could filter out all the BS stuff that has happened it would only be 4 pages long.:eek: :D
Torchie
 
back at it

finally back at it after a hiatus...

Decided to narrow the frame before I cut/z the back of the frame. Some pics of the work....basically slotted the frame, brought the pieces together with threaded rod.

bit nervous about all the grinding /welding in the garage now with my cutlass there....afraid to burn the place down. got to put an extra tarp over that cover to keep the sparks from damaging the paint.

I want to put air bags on this...dam shipping is killing me.
 

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some more pics.... ran out of CO2 so the horns are only tacked in place yet.
Not sure on the path forward on the axle yet. Need to get the frame rolling.
 

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well...think I have my first snag

Been away from the garage for months and months...life got in the way. Finally getting back at it. I have an issue now that really is annoying me...and I want some advice. I am using the ford axle out of the 51..I am going to move it ahead and use air bags and attach it to a plate under the modified cross member. I had a set of brackets make up for the ford axle to use a 4 link...but I dont have much clearance from the steering link. It is not touching but very close...dont want it jamming up while driving, I was thinking about just using a top bar or lowering the bottom bar by half inch or so ?
 

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It does look close, but close doesn't mean there's a problem. In one of the pictures it looks like the tie rod might be behind the pivot point of the 4 bar, if this is the case then close might be a problem. If the tie rod is in front of the pivot point then it MIGHT be fine. In the pictures you posted it doesn't appear that the 4 bar is fully assembled. That's going to be the best way to tell.

What do you mean by only running the top bar? If you mean only the top bars of the 4 bar that won't work.
 
that's what I meant...like a hairpin. I will not be doing that I guess.

Not sure what you mean by if the tie rod is in from of the pivot point..the oem tie rod or the 4 bar tie.

I contacted the guy who did the design and he said it is standard practice in the hot rod to bend the steering linkages to get more room ?

Guess I will put it together as planned and see what it looks like.
 
In the second picture it looks like the tie rod is behind (towards the rear of the vehicle) the pivot point of the lower 4 bar rod but in the fourth picture it looks like it might be just forward of the lower 4 bar rod pivot point. Also in the fourth picture the lower 4 bar rod is dropped way out of the position it would be in if installed on the chassis. This is the area I was referencing. What happens if you simulate suspension travel?

I would not bend the tie rod to gain clearance.
 

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