1952B3b23
Well-known member
Yea .020" is the factory spec.
1939 Plymouth Coupe P8
- Thread starter 1952B3b23
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
Yea .020" is the factory spec.
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
Good to hear you got it figured out
Old Iron
Well-known member
Right on.
Sometimes we have to trace our steps, things do happen
Sometimes we have to trace our steps, things do happen
1952B3b23
Well-known member
I've been cruising for the past couple weeks basically without any issues. My temp. gauge did stop working the other day though. The original gauge hasn't worked in who knows how long and someone cut the end off it. So the aftermarket replacement the previous owner installed finally quit two weeks ago. I went to Pepboys and picked up a Bosch gauge. It was only $20, who knows how long this one will last. I can see the engine temp. again which makes me much happier cruising around.
I am running into a funny issue. Ever since i've installed my rebuilt vacuum advance i seem to get a popping sound out of the exhaust at idle. Its not a random pop, it seems to happen pretty consistently. The car cruises fine, plenty of power, and starts right up (cold or hot). This wasn't an issue before with my non-functioning vacuum advance. I did notice that when i used the timing light on the car, vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged, there is no pop at all. I have it timed at 2 degree before TDC.
Any thoughts on what could be causing this?
Thanks,
-Chris
I am running into a funny issue. Ever since i've installed my rebuilt vacuum advance i seem to get a popping sound out of the exhaust at idle. Its not a random pop, it seems to happen pretty consistently. The car cruises fine, plenty of power, and starts right up (cold or hot). This wasn't an issue before with my non-functioning vacuum advance. I did notice that when i used the timing light on the car, vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged, there is no pop at all. I have it timed at 2 degree before TDC.
Any thoughts on what could be causing this?
Thanks,
-Chris
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1952B3b23
Well-known member
So its been a little while since i've done anything to the Plymouth.*But since i can't leave well enough alone, i decided to get my Nicson dual carb intake setup and exhaust*manifold split by George Asche. I pulled the manifold off last sunday and mailed the stuff out on Monday. Only one of the studs broke off in the engine*block, i consider that a success.*
-Chris
-Chris
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Torchie
Well-known member
Good to see you back at it Chris.
Do you have any pics of the manifold so we can see a before and after?
All of my experience with Nicson parts is related to boat engines.
Torchie
Do you have any pics of the manifold so we can see a before and after?
All of my experience with Nicson parts is related to boat engines.
Torchie
1952B3b23
Well-known member
Thanks Torchie. Here is a picture of the Nicson manifold.
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Torchie
Well-known member
Looking forward to the pics after it's split.
[P [P [P
Torchie
[P [P [P
Torchie
1952B3b23
Well-known member
Looking forward to the pics after it's split.
[P [P [P
Torchie
Me too. It should be really cool
I like the way these old flatheads sound with dual exhaust. -Chris
ssimpala
Well-known member
WOW! You've really started making some progress...looking good.
1952B3b23
Well-known member
WOW! You've really started making some progress...looking good.
Thanks a lot. Shes far from done or perfect, but shes a blast to drive!
1952B3b23
Well-known member
I received pictures of my completed dual intake and split exhaust. In three of the pics you can see the venerable Mr. George Asche. He's a mopar flathead guru and probably the most knowledgeable person on these engines. He's 85 and been doing this for a very long time. I feel honored to have him build my dual carb setup and exhaust. I can't wait to bolt it onto my engine! [cl
-Chris
-Chris
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Torchie
Well-known member
Looks Great Chris.[cl
Vintage multiple carb manifolds always strike me as being a work of art. Especially on 4's and 6 cylinder engines.
Torchie.
[clVintage multiple carb manifolds always strike me as being a work of art. Especially on 4's and 6 cylinder engines.
Torchie.
Old Iron
Well-known member
Definitely looks like he knows what he's doing
1952B3b23
Well-known member
Thanks guys. I really like vintage speed equipment. Reminds me of what a kid may have done to his old coupe back in the 40s or 50s. It'll give the engine a bit more pep, look cool , and sound cool too.
Yea George sure is a master at this stuff. A real nice guy too.
-Chris
Yea George sure is a master at this stuff. A real nice guy too.
-Chris
1952B3b23
Well-known member
When i removed the intake/exhaust manifold i had one of the threaded studs snap off in the block. I got lucky that all of the others actually came out. To take it out i wanted to try welding a washer and nut to the end and then turning it out. I was paranoid that i would catch the car on fire with my MIG welder so i removed the fuel pump and covered as much as i could with fiberglass blankets. I first tried welding just a nut onto the end of the stud with the MIG. This didn't work, the nut broke off
For round two i decided to use my TIG welder. But for that i had to remove the passenger side fender so i could reach in and actually see what i was doing. This worked great. The tig allows you to get really good penetration and it heats up the stud a lot too. So while it was still hot i squirted a little penetrating oil on it and was able to remove it without a problem. Also, the TIG doesn't produce any flying sparks so i wasn't all nervous that i'd light something off.
Having the fender off will help with routing the dual exhaust and fuel lines. It's a lot easier then slumping over the fender for hours!
Thanks for looking,
-Chris
For round two i decided to use my TIG welder. But for that i had to remove the passenger side fender so i could reach in and actually see what i was doing. This worked great. The tig allows you to get really good penetration and it heats up the stud a lot too. So while it was still hot i squirted a little penetrating oil on it and was able to remove it without a problem. Also, the TIG doesn't produce any flying sparks so i wasn't all nervous that i'd light something off.
Having the fender off will help with routing the dual exhaust and fuel lines. It's a lot easier then slumping over the fender for hours!
Thanks for looking,
-Chris
Attachments
Skip
Well-known member
When i removed the intake/exhaust manifold i had one of the threaded studs snap off in the block. I got lucky that all of the others actually came out. To take it out i wanted to try welding a washer and nut to the end and then turning it out. I was paranoid that i would catch the car on fire with my MIG welder so i removed the fuel pump and covered as much as i could with fiberglass blankets. I first tried welding just a nut onto the end of the stud with the MIG. This didn't work, the nut broke off
For round two i decided to use my TIG welder. But for that i had to remove the passenger side fender so i could reach in and actually see what i was doing. This worked great. The tig allows you to get really good penetration and it heats up the stud a lot too. So while it was still hot i squirted a little penetrating oil on it and was able to remove it without a problem. Also, the TIG doesn't produce any flying sparks so i wasn't all nervous that i'd light something off.
Having the fender off will help with routing the dual exhaust and fuel lines. It's a lot easier then slumping over the fender for hours!
Thanks for looking,
-Chris
kenny c
Well-known member
The weld a nut on trick works realy great. sometime as many as 3 or 4 tries. with the mig. more heat cycle may be the reason or it may be burning off the impurities in order to get a better weld.
