42 ford pickup

rapid49 said:

Flipper, that's some fine lines on that drop top ! What kind of car is that ?

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http://www.justcustomz.com/blog/john-o’quinn’s-1936-roadster-built-by-rick-dore/

I ended up using a hinge kit from Ebay. The latches and strikers are from Speedway. This actually went quicker than expected , though I still have some minor details to finish. This is about as far as I'm gonna go on the body for now. I need to tear it back down and finish the frame . I'm going to paint the frame before I put it back together.

I am almost caught up to real time here . This was last weekend . I was getting ready to disassemble the frame . I have a lot of welding to finish , gussets to add , fishplates and a few brackets to add. I also have to notch the front crossmember for fuel pump clearance and figure out how I am going to use the coilovers on the front. They came off of a Mustang II . I picked them up at a swap meet for 25 bucks . I will take some more picks tomorrow and post in a day or two.

OK I am current with with these pics . I notched the frame for fuel pump clearance . While I was there a made another notch in front of that one to give more clearance to the lower radiator hose . I made some spring buckets out of 3/16" plate and 1/8" flat bar. I'm hoping to finish the frame today and get some paint on it . I still have to finish up a couple of welds, add some fish plates and straps for the fuel cell. I better get busy !

Well we had a fairly productive day today . I finished the fish plates , bent and welded the fuel cell straps , cleaned , welded ,sanded etc. and painted the bottom. Tomorrow I will flip it over and paint the rest. Then final assembly will start .

Looking great.

You're gettin alot done and it's all looking fine![cl

Great progress.

I check more than once a day.

I would be happy to own this.

Well I sprayed the top last Saturday and haven't gotten much done since . I came down with a flu or something and didn't get out in the shop all week. So I'm feeling better now and it's time to get busy. I hope to get the suspension parts finished and painted . I want to see a rolling chassis. there's barely four weeks left until I want to be driving . Can I pull this off? It's going to be a challenge! The main thing I have left to fab before I paint again are the mounts for the coilovers on the lower control arms . I have a plan , I just hope it works out ok .

The frame looks great, I'm really liking that color[dr

bruno said:

The frame looks great, I'm really liking that color[dr

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Yea red is my favorite . That's safety red industrial enamel , $30 a gallon ! LOL

Well the suspension is coming together . I'm behind schedule , but hopefully I can make that up in the next couple of weeks. I've got to get the steering linkage done next.

coming right alone [cl

................[P

We're waiting.....

I've made some progress the last few days . The steering linkage is pretty much worked out . The engine , clutch and tranny are installed . The shifter and driveshaft are next. I have a day or two to finish the bottom of the cab then I will get it back on the chassis. I was relieved to see that the fuel pump fit with good clearance , I had kind of guessed at those dimensions ! I'm on vacation next week and plan to put a lot of hours into the truck. I can't wait to see some sheetmetal going back on !!

Well I worked on the driveshaft this morning . I thought I would share how to shorten a driveshaft. I know a lot of people send to a shop to get this done , but it is easy to do with a few fabrication skills. The end of the shaft fits inside of the tube before it is welded . the trick is to cut against the exsisting weld and only cut deep enough to get through the tube and not cut into the end any more than necessary. If you watch real close you can see the color change as your cut gets deep enough to get through the tube. The tube is not that thick I'm gonna guess maybe .060" to .80" . When you think you have cut deep enough , tap the end with a hammer and it should come loose. Cut the tube the measurement that you want to shorten the shaft. Clean the end with a file . You can now tap the end back into the tube , line everythng up and tack it. I use a level or degree finder to line up both ends so that the joints are in phase. I use a tape measure to make sure the ends are square and even. Tack it in at least three spots and double check phase and measurements. When you are happy with these weld it up . One pass is good. I know a lot of people worry about balance , but it has been my experience that it is not that critical. I have done many of these over the last 35 years , on the street and the track and have never had problems with vibration.

Yep, that'll do it[cl

More progress in the last couple days. I have the shifter worked out. Somebody gave me an ITM ( never heard of them before) , but I had to make a bracket to mount it to the T10. I also had to make shifter arms for the T10. The flats on these Borg Warner shift shafts are on an angle , the shift arms I had were for Saginaw and Muncie . They use a slot for the flats that is straight up and down. I made some arms out of 1" flat bar . It was easier than I thought. I decided to make another drive shaft. The one in the pics looked to short even though it had a long yoke and the proper penetration into the tranny , I didn't like the way it looked . It just looked too short. So I made a longer one with a regular length yoke. The cab is bolted back on , and now I have to work out the steering column. I have a column out of a chevy truck but theres not enough room. The master cylinders take up a lot of space. For now I'm just gonna hang a shaft on a couple of support bearings , race car style. I have to move on to brake lines, fuel lines , wiring , WOW the list is long and time is short. I better get to work !!

You're making some great headway [cl [P