1934 Plymouth five window

Today was different. I went over to a friends and helped him swap his lowered spindles for stock height ones. He had raised the rear 2" last night on his '47 Chev coupe, with lower leaf spring to rear-end pedestals, so we also rotated the rear-end so the U-joints would be bent slightly and run smoothly. I told him I'd help him out further by taking those silly, useless, no-good lowering spindles to the dump for him.[ddd He nodded. They will fit right on to my Plymouth, I think and start the lowering process. That 2" and 2" more from a cut coil plus an inch lower for smaller wheels will put the front of the car down nicely.[S
The picture is the spindle partly off.

I love friends that actually get the idea of, helping each other get what they want [cl
That's a stroke of luck for them to fit yours

Old Iron, you got me to thinkin', and I guess I trade quite a bit. I like working with someone else now and again.
I hope the lowering spindles fit; we eye-balled them first. Both cars have Mustang II front ends.
My passenger door that looked almost finished was inspected, found wanting, rewelded and ground down again. Only lateral movement, no positive progress, so no pictures.

As long as you are moving Mac.
A target is easier to hit when it is standing still.[
Torchie.

Movement is Movement....

MercuryMac said:

Old Iron, you got me to thinkin', and I guess I trade quite a bit. I like working with someone else now and again.
I hope the lowering spindles fit; we eye-balled them first. Both cars have Mustang II front ends.
My passenger door that looked almost finished was inspected, found wanting, rewelded and ground down again. Only lateral movement, no positive progress, so no pictures.

Click to expand...

Up, down, sideways....it's all the same....as long as it's not backwards...

Well Sgt., I won't be spreading word of all of my movements on the airwaves, but I am still providing a poor target. Today I worked on parallelling the door gaps by welding beads on the edge of the door and then grinding them smooth.[[ With a little more work with the body hammer the door edge follows the contour of the car nicely, and it's time for body filler. Oh, the door gaps are not perfect, just OK.

Nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ahh yes.... Door gaps.[cl [ [
Torchie.

Torchie said:

Ahh yes.... Door gaps.[cl [ [
Torchie.

Click to expand...

yeah.... door gaps.... more like painful gaps lol

Yes Torchie, door gaps, I thought I'd get your attention with that. You seem to be the only guy here, who enjoys paralleling door gaps. You probably could do it with one eye shut; well I've got you beat,......... it looks like I had both of mine shut sometimes. See we've made CC shiver just looking into his own future.
No progress today as there was a surprise day at work.

door gaps are what makes us live with what we have or really enjoy what we have!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I thought a door gap was the space a door fits in.

bob w said:

I thought a door gap was the space a door fits in.

Click to expand...

[cl[ddd

On my '36 PU both of the doors had been in a bad roll over, and the drivers door [the one I really needed] would not even fit in the door hole. The window frame was 2 to 3 inches back out of place. So I know the difference between door gaps and .....well.... door gaps, Bob.
Today I worked on door gaps again on my '34; welding and grinding, welding and grinding. I am running the thin side of a wooden yardstick over the top of the door now to find the high and the low spots. I like the yardstick when I'm doing any body work. It'll bend a bit and mimic the curve of some of the body pieces and it bends similarly to tin so if you see light through under the yardstick, the tin isn't bent right.
I cleaned up the inside of the door a bit too and primed it.
While the primer was drying I started to take out my stock height spindle to be replaced by my new lowered one. I'm also going to cut part of a coil off the springs while I have them out.

I did the same thing as your yardstick on the roof of my cab Mac except that I used a wooden dowel. It conforms like the yardstick but I can roll it back and forth to help pick out high and low spots as well as checking the contour.
No body work for me until spring. Just to cold out in the shop.
The doors are looking good.[cl [P [P
Torchie.

It take some time to work the old metal to where it looks good.
How low is the car gonna be with the spindles and a cut coil

Good thinking Torchie. The dowel can roll easily without scratching any paint and the back light will show through underneath easier than my yardstick.
OI, I hope to get the frame down 4 to 5 inches. A while back I put the motor and transmission in and then stood on the frame horns. The car sat there proudly at least eight inches too high, so I promised myself quite a bit of lowering. I have measured the height of the radiator brackets and they are 17 3/8" off the floor. That's ridiculous.

Then it'll only be 12 3/8" off the ground.
17 3/8" -2" drop spindles -2" cut coil -1" tire difference
12 3/8" is what I ciphered from a previous post.

I only did a little filing on the framework of the window hole today and resprayed the primer.
Yes OI that's about right, and I think the rad mounts are about 3" above the bottom of the Mustang II axle so it will be about 9" off the ground. Maybe all of the finishing stuff like rad, coolant, oil, body tin and grille will weigh more than I do so it'll go down a little more. I live a way out in the country so I need a little clearance under the car to make it to town some days.

OI, I misled you with measurements. The rad mounts are 5 1/2" above the bottom of the front axle.
I smeared on the bodyfiller and did a little smoothing, but not much.
Here's a picture of the new lowering spindle on and the coil spring cut only one half of a wrap, because it looked like the PO had already cut the spring a bit.