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  #51  
Old 02-18-2015, 06:22 PM
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willyD willyD is offline
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I picked up the 8.8. Looks good inside. It's a bit rusty on the outside but oh well. I'll put new brake line, hoses, pads and rotors on it and go from there.

I also decided to put a battery cutoff switch in since my battery is up under the bed and a bit of a pain in the butt to get at to disconnect. I'll make a new key for it later that is a lot less conspicuous. I'll have to look for something old to put on it to give it some flare.

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  #52  
Old 02-27-2015, 10:16 AM
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willyD willyD is offline
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I found this cool old switch out of a Korea era jet. I think it was meant to control duel magnetos but I'm not completely sure. It's set up strangely but I think that I have sorted out a way to split the 3 switches and use them individually. I plan to run a fuel pump override, a fan override, and eventually an override for my compressor for the air ride (once I finally scrape together enough cash to set that up!)

I also have my rear end just about ready to go in. I'll need to fab some new lowering blocks for it and sort out a traction bar setup. Hopefully next winter I will be able to 4 link and bag the back but for now leaves and traction bars will do.

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  #53  
Old 02-27-2015, 11:51 AM
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Skip Skip is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willyD View Post
I found this cool old switch out of a Korea era jet. I think it was meant to control duel magnetos but I'm not completely sure. It's set up strangely but I think that I have sorted out a way to split the 3 switches and use them individually. I plan to run a fuel pump override, a fan override, and eventually an override for my compressor for the air ride (once I finally scrape together enough cash to set that up!)

I also have my rear end just about ready to go in. I'll need to fab some new lowering blocks for it and sort out a traction bar setup. Hopefully next winter I will be able to 4 link and bag the back but for now leaves and traction bars will do.

With four positions on each switch, and a toggle, you could set up an ignition lock with an almost unbreakable code. That would be fun.
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  #54  
Old 02-27-2015, 12:43 PM
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willyD willyD is offline
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That's a pretty cool idea. I'm already wired on my ignition so I don't think that I want to take the time to mess with it but it would be kind cool to not have a key at all and just run that as a coded ignition switch.
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  #55  
Old 03-06-2015, 06:18 PM
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I got my 8.8 stuffed in this week. I had to cut the flanges off that seem to just be there to protect the ABS sensor to clear the cross member in front of the rear end on my frame. I made a set of lowering blocks too. The factory bumps where a bit tall so put so low profile bumps in. We'll see if I end up wanting some that are a little thicker and softer....







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  #56  
Old 03-13-2015, 10:17 AM
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willyD willyD is offline
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I got my traction bars built and installed. They are a modified slapper style. Rather than running them under the springs, I put them next to and parallel with the springs. With the lowering blocks, running them under would put them way to close to the ground. I have the fronts "bolted" to a bracket. The bolt is loose and rubber mounted and acts as a downward stop as well as placing the rubber bumper for the upward stop.





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  #57  
Old 03-13-2015, 10:20 AM
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I also mounted up my shifter. I will likely fab a new lever for it at some point to get rid of the chrome but it'll do for now. It's a B&M unimatic. I'm still thinking about what to do for a shift knob on it too.



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  #58  
Old 03-31-2015, 09:43 AM
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Well, I managed to get my front end together over the last week and a half or so. I'm using Slam Specialties bags and bought a bracket kit from Suicide Doors. The bracket kit was more or less a waste of money but it wasn't all that expensive I guess so it wasn't too bad. I ended up only using the upper bracket from the kit and cutting it way down to fit my setup. I cut my own gussets for it since that was easier than modifying the ones from the kit. The lower plate didn't fit at all and I needed a riser anyway. I machined an aluminum plate that is notched out for one tab of my lower ball joint. The lower end of the bag is fully bolt in without modifying the lower control arm other than grinding off the weld nuts that were there for the original shock mounts. I'm running the factory bumps for both directions of travel. With it bottomed out on the bumps, the front suspension cross member is the lowest point and sits about 2 inches off the ground. I figure this will give me emergency clearance if lose air in my bags. I can still limp very slowly home or at least won't tear stuff up!

For now, I just have schrader valves on each bag and will run them static until I can save up for onboard air. Hopefully that won't be too far down the line but I need to get the truck running and driving first and make sure that I have funds for all the little stuff that adds up so fast for that.

I outboarded the shocks and re-did the brackets for the brake hoses. I also got my drive shaft back from the shop so I need to get that stuffed in. Finally, I bought a baffle kit for my lake headers and built them up and installed them so hopefully my ears won't bleed when I finally get to fire this thing up!













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  #59  
Old 03-31-2015, 10:10 AM
bob w bob w is offline
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You're making lots of good progress willyD. Gonna be a nice ride.
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  #60  
Old 03-31-2015, 10:14 AM
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Torchie Torchie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob w View Post
You're making lots of good progress willyD. Gonna be a nice ride.
X's 2 ^^^^^^^^^
Keep it up.
Torchie
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